Polishing made easy - Tip

I like the nylox wheels you chuck in a small drill
This is a heritage motor after using these methods. It was pretty groty when I started.
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And after I sold it.

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Did I read that right, gggGary? Did someone chop up your pristine 650?
 
I sure hope not! This was a quick in out 82 HS. I did sell the 83 later but only after the guy swore on his discharge papers he would never cut it. I wish I hadn't sold it though. I also made him promise if he changes his mind, he will bring it back to me and I'll set him up with a different bike to cut.
 
A non-chemical method of removing polishing residue and brightening the metal is to use flour on a micro-fiber cloth. The waxy black stuff cakes with the flour, and a light rub breaks it loose, and it won't re-stick, due to the flour, just like rolling pizza dough. Comes away very bright and clean, and you just blow it clear with air. That's how we finish off a mirror polish on aircraft aluminum surfaces.

Never thought of that. Im going to try it, Thanks
 
Gary, for the alloy wheel "grooves", try some of these in a die grinder. Also good for the nooks and crannys on side covers the bench wheel won't get into. You can easily touch up covers on the bike with them too .....

http://www.amazon.com/Spiral-Sewn-Buffing-Wheel-Mounted/dp/B0009RSPC4/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

That store, PJ Tool, has lots of nice buffing stuff. Best deal I've found on compounds is McMaster Carr. Giant 2 1/2 lb. bars for about the same price as most places charge for a 1 lb. bar.
 
I think that is the same company I got my gas tank liner from to and it worked well.
jefft
 
I am not sure if I found this on this board or not but it definitely helped me

here is the guide

I bought a grinder, and I guess I should have done a bit of a research because it's definitely not strong enough. Every time I get right in there it slows down, but does the job anyways. Things to consider if you are buying a grinder, get some kind of adapter. I bought mine for 6.99 or something they are called arbor adapters:
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I had my head scratched for a while to try and figure out how to get that buffing wheel on my grinder

anyways here's my end result:
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Thanks to the board now she looks beautiful :thumbsup:
oh and also buy a one of those drill buffing wheels, getting in those tight corners is a pain in the badunkadunk.
 
The best remedy for aluminum parts is 1) use paint stripper to remove old clear coat, 2) buy California Custom aluminum deodorizer and purple polish, 3) use 0000 steel wool to scrub all the aluminum to uniform appearance, it will look grey. You will see a chemical reaction, like steam coming off while using the steel wool dipped in the deoxidizer 4) polish the parts with their purple polish to a near chrome shine. I do it by hand, but you could use a powered wheel. Nothing as good as this combo an I've tried everything. Once finished no clear coat needed, just an occasional quick once-over polish. I can only find these products sold online, no store here has them.
 
The best remedy for aluminum parts is 1) use paint stripper to remove old clear coat, 2) buy California Custom aluminum deodorizer and purple polish, 3) use 0000 steel wool to scrub all the aluminum to uniform appearance, it will look grey. You will see a chemical reaction, like steam coming off while using the steel wool dipped in the deoxidizer 4) polish the parts with their purple polish to a near chrome shine. I do it by hand, but you could use a powered wheel. Nothing as good as this combo an I've tried everything. Once finished no clear coat needed, just an occasional quick once-over polish. I can only find these products sold online, no store here has them.

I am pretty happy with my 1st attempt at polishing aluminum, but it could be better. I just ordered this product from Ebay and will try it. Thanks for the info.
___Tom
 
I am pretty happy with my 1st attempt at polishing aluminum, but it could be better. I just ordered this product from Ebay and will try it. Thanks for the info.
___Tom
Use 0000 steel wool and it's an amazingly easy light scrubbing action that gets the aluminum prepped to a uniform finish. I contacted the manufacturer and told the how well their product works with steel wool, but they choose to not tell people this... Anyway, the purple polish at first turns the metal black, then do it again and watch the aluminum turn to chrome. Awesome. Spell check again... DEOXIDIZER not deoderizer, lol.
 
Use 0000 steel wool and it's an amazingly easy light scrubbing action that gets the aluminum prepped to a uniform finish. I contacted the manufacturer and told the how well their product works with steel wool, but they choose to not tell people this... Anyway, the purple polish at first turns the metal black, then do it again and watch the aluminum turn to chrome. Awesome. Spell check again... DEOXIDIZER not deoderizer, lol.
 
If you have corrosion stains on aluminum, face the music and start with the 60-80 grit to get down past the stains and any deep scratches. Then you have to level it all out in increasing 220-330-400-600 before you even believe there is a home stretch. Someone wanted to charge me $110/hr. to do my case covers...quoted "at least" $200/ cover which is like leaving a blank check. plain n simple nothing easy about it if one starts with ruff material.
 
60-80 grit sounds like a lot of work.:yikes: I`ve had good luck with 3" Hook-it 400 grit on a foam backed disc then 600 grit. Black compound for the first cut then Tripoli, then white compound. I use aircraft stripper to remove the clear first. Different buffing wheel for each compound.
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It is hard work. I smoothed that course stuff with a 320 ball and a 400 grit ball on my drill only to fin spots I missed to do over before going to finer wet dry hand stuff. Yea, I found my air tool like yours that must have had some fertilizer spilled on it and it was like acid eating into the handle. Froze up the controls. replacing it this week as I need to do forks and another case side that's not bad.
 
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