Power to the Coil

I think I would work over the pits with a small fine file, just to knock off any raised edges. A little light sanding afterwards with some very fine paper probably wouldn't hurt either.

For gaiters, many of us use the ones made for truck shocks. They're cheap and last pretty much forever. They're a bit too long but after shortening, fit perfectly .....

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I use the Daystar brand. The larger bottoms are a perfect fit on the 650 lowers. I added hose clamps for looks mostly, they're just snugged up. They're not needed to actually hold the boot on. The smaller tops are a perfect fit on the fork tubes. No clamps or tie wraps are needed, just the friction fit they have is enough .....

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So, now the question arises, how does one shorten the boot without losing the nice fitting top or bottom? Well, you'll notice the boots are tapered, the top bellow smaller and each below it gradually getting larger. That allows you to do this - cut the nice fitting top along with one bellow off like so .....

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Now hold the remaining bottom portion up to your assembled fork and determine how many bellows need to be cut off. Usually it's 4 or 5. Then simply insert that top w/ one bellow into the top bellow on your freshly shortened lower section. Due to the tapered construction, that small top bellow will fit inside the larger one on the lower piece perfectly. No glue or anything is required, the friction fit between the 2 parts is good enough .....

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And like I said, these things are cheap, $10 or less a pair here in the States anyway. I've had the ones on my 650 for about 12 years now and they show no signs of wear (splitting or cracking). I have another bike they've been on for probably 20 years, still look fine.
 
Thanks 5T....I've tried to find that brand of gaiter but it seems unavailable in the UK :-(

With the 2" lowering kit, if I wish to stiffen things up (which I do), should I cut anything off of the springs do you think?
 
Yes I will do as shipping from the States is 30 dollars or so. I take it most will ditch the stock dust seals when using gaitors?
 
Yes, you must remove the original dust covers or wipers. The gaiters fit where they are now, right on the metal of the fork lower.
 
Gaiters are actually useful. I had a bad leak from where the original wiper was and a bunch of oily grit under there. After I put the Daystar "gaiters" on it appeared to fix itself and I didn't have to do anything to the seals. I didn't do the trick where you insert the bottom part, maybe because of interference with the Special fender -- can't remember. But if I did I think I would seal it with something like Barge cement, and maybe on the outside so I could keep an eye on it. In that case, punch a hole on the underside of one of the bellows in back to let air out. Measure and cut with the front end up so it's fully extended.
 
The Daystar boots come with 2 pairs of vent holes already punched in them, one at the top, one at the bottom. You end up blocking the upper pair with your shortening routine but the bottom pair is still there and seems to be enough to prevent "ballooning" during fork compression.

I was 1st introduced to gaiters on my '70s BMWs. I liked the look and the added protection they provided for the fork tubes and seals. A splattered, dried up bug on your tube can be hard as a rock. Pumping that through the seal can ruin it.
 
With the fork seals, is there an easy way of getting these seated? Would it be safe to lightly tap these in with a small pin hammer and a block of wood?
 
If you have done the tapered neck bearing swap, one of the old bear races that go in the neck fit nicely as a driver for the fork seals.
Haven't looked as of yet but some have said the right size PVC pipe works as a driver.
Leo
 
Thanks Leo that's great, I have swapped out the bearings for tapered ones but threw away the old races in the process.....will try to get ahold of some PVC Pipe..........
 
I normally use a big socket but I do have old races on hand. Maybe I'll try one next time.
 
A big socket would work.......perfect! Why can't I think of these things!!!!
 
Not sure if anyone would know but with the Hughes kit I need to take 1.5 inches off of the springs. Is this taken from the top or the bottom of the springs?
 
So I finally received the Hughes lowering kit (took about 3 weeks to arrive) and got them fitted and the forks rebuilt with fresh oil....All good and thanks for the help guys......see finished photo :)

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