Prep & Painting of BS34 Black Carbs from '82 Heritage Special

[YL82]

I plan to repaint the BS34 Carbs from my '82 HS.

Factory paint was removed via paint stripper and residual was cleaned by soda blasting. All jets, plastic & rubber parts were removed prior.

I have degreased the carbs a number of times using separate applications of Brakleen (red can), Lacquer Thinner (soaking), Denatured Alcohol (soaking).

I read on the Forum someplace that ceramic-based Caliper Paint is used (by some such as oldskoolcarbs) on the black BS34 carbs.

I've picked up two options (see images) from AutoZone. One is a gloss black caliper paint while the other (VHT) is gloss black engine paint - both contain ceramic.

Temperature specs on the cans range from 500-500F. Not sure how hot carbs actually get... While the VHT product requires baking, the Dupli-Color caliper paint instructions makes no mention of the need for baking.

Any preferences out there on which aerosol is best to use for this application?

Not sure either will hold up to prolonged exposure to gasoline.

Is it best to apply an self-etching primer beforehand to improve adhesion?

Note: I know nothing about powder coating...

Thanks.

 

[gggGary]

 

[nj1639]

LOL......some help there G!
I used vht on some '83's and gas has stripped it. Thinking powder coating or baking but I would imagine that all rubber seals should be removed.
Might just run them as is.

 

[bobber_xs]

no one of this two can will old

to me rattle can is shit.... i have do my engine..... with a rattle can
and i will remake it with another way
for something you want to keep

i suggest you to powder coated it or ceramic coating

i think ceramic coating will be a cheaper way

because it come in a liquid form and you can spray it with a spray gun...

and bake it after

but depend on what you want to have in quality job

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Your carbs won't get that hot, they'll be well below 200° F.
Try a web search on "Aluma-Hyde", and read the reviews, comparing it to other solvent resistant paints...

 

[YL82]

i appreciate the feedback. Several options to consider. I've decided not to use the spray cans I bought.

In the short term, I'll just leave em bare as is. Thanks for planting the seed, nj1639.

I called Asheville (NC) Paint & Powdercoating and got an estimate of $95. May consider this down the road and will look for Powdercoating services closer to home. DIY equipment looks to be pricey.

Brownells Aluma-Hyde II does sound interesting - Solvent resistant, available in semi-gloss black. May pick up a can or two (I lack an alternative spray system) and experiment with it.

Thanks again!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

That Aluma-Hyde's pretty tough stuff, especially on spray nozzles, be sure to get extras.

 

[YL82]

You're referring to using a paint spraying system... Do you have a recommendation for such a system for the budget-minded that can be picked up at Lowes, Sears, Home Depot, etc.?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Oh, no. No elaborate system. Just the little spray nozzle that's on the can. Even after doing the "Invert can and spray 'till clear" routine, they still get clogged. I just add a bag of spare nozzles to my order of this stuff...

 

[gggGary]

That looks like a good paint. I'm a big spray bomb fan but....... For work as fussy as carb painting an air brush might be best.
Even with the bodies black I like the float bowls shiny to balance the chrome caps. Original be damned... LOL.

 

[YL82]

Oh, no. No elaborate system. Just the little spray nozzle that's on the can. Even after doing the "Invert can and spray 'till clear" routine, they still get clogged. I just add a bag of spare nozzles to my order of this stuff...

Sorry, I misunderstood. Thanks!

 

[YL82]

I used Brownells Aluma-Hyde on my Fork Ears. Any issues/downsides with applying a clear coat finish?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I wouldn't shoot lacquer over it. Other than that, experimentin' time!