Project Canuck- 84 XS650 Project Build

That sump plate bolt you were dealing with has nothing to do with anything being bent, it's that funky sidestand safety switch Yamaha installed. The engineer who designed that thing should be beat up the side of the head with said switch, Lord knows it's big enough to inflict some lumps, lol. The best thing you can do is eliminate all that junk and revert back to the small and simple spring post bracket used on the earlier models. It doesn't block the oil pan bolt access. This was such a stupid addition, or at least it's execution was. Never mind the difficult access to that one bolt, what really matters is it makes it impossible to use a torque wrench on it .....

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You will need to unplug and remove the relay the switch hooks up to as well or the bike will only run when in neutral. No wire jumping is required, just unplug and remove the relay, and that "Rube Goldberg" switch contraption as well.
 
A good source for OEM parts here...... Partzilla.

Not so much in Canada. Between the exchange rate and shipping not worth it. Better off with dealers for OEM or there are some Canadian based oem suppliers that are not dealers. Owning a Guzzi I have gotten pretty creative in sourcing parts.
 
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Well found the reason for a sticky float valve. Some ham fisted previous owner tried a little too hard the drive the float pin out. Evidence of a JB weld attempt. The pin is actually bent so not sure what they did.

Guess my decision on a new carb may be made for me. May try a quick fix for now just to get the bike running and then source a replacement later. Actually does seem to hold together on its own once the pin is in. Other carb looks go so far.

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Despite all the griping, the stock carbs are good - and if you use NOS OEM rubber and brass parts (floats, jets, float needles etc.) - all should be fine.

The aftermarket carb parts always seem to cause issues. :banghead:
 
Well some good news for tonight. Now that the carbs are off, oil is back in, and my new battery is all charged up I checked the compression. Dry compression check on a cold engine with carbs removed using the e-start I got 158 PSI on the left and 152 PSI on the right. I would say that is about as good as can be expected on a 34 year engine. Didn't even try a wet test. After a good decarbonizing and cleaning it can only get better. Spark was good and strong also.

Too bad about the float post, would have liked to start her up. See no reason why it won't. Once I get that sorted and the engine started I will start the tear down. Nice to know that there should be no surprise when I open up the engine.
 
What side carb do you need. I have a couple stripped bodies with good posts. And just down the road, too.
With the engine in such good condition, why even open it? It will probably cost several hundred by the time you put it back together.
Welcome to the site.
 
What side carb do you need. I have a couple stripped bodies with good posts. And just down the road, too.
With the engine in such good condition, why even open it? It will probably cost several hundred by the time you put it back together.
Welcome to the site.

It is the left side carb (as u sit on the bike). At a minimum the engine is coming out for a refurbish. Right now will sound like it will be mostly cosmetic. There is also an oil leak so changing of some gaskets will be in order. I like to start with a fresh pallet so to speak. Gives me a chance to spruce up the rest of the bike. May just take a look up top to make sure every looks good and clean. Just my OCD kicking in. All part of my restoration.

Would be great if you had a carb body. Let me know and I can come for a ride to get it or u could ship if possible. We can work something out.
 
:popcorn:

I was really impressed with the aluminium brazing demo videos - but as I understand it, the carbs are not actually made of aluminium so, I’m not clear that the technology would apply to your carburetor repair.
 
:popcorn:

I was really impressed with the aluminium brazing demo videos - but as I understand it, the carbs are not actually made of aluminium so, I’m not clear that the technology would apply to your carburetor repair.

I saw that part. Going to check out what is available. There are solder pastes that cover a wider range of materials including various pot metals. Can only try and see at this point.
 
TwoManyXS1Bs has said they are made of Zamac.

Yes. Solder-IT makes a paste specifically for Zinc Alloys and Pot Metals. Agreed that an aluminum solder may not work as the aluminum content is low but will give the paste a try.

I like to experiment, even when people tell me it can't be done. I seem to usually find a way. My wife reminds me all the time how annoying it can be.
 
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