Project Canuck- 84 XS650 Project Build

Is that from Princess Auto?

Anyhow, I’ll be watching to see how this works. If it does work, I’m sure that a lot of problems for a lot of Forum members will be solved!


Pete
 
Is that from Princess Auto?

Anyhow, I’ll be watching to see how this works. If it does work, I’m sure that a lot of problems for a lot of Forum members will be solved!


Pete

They are one source. Going to take a ride there today to see if the store carry's it. Caswell Canada carry's it also. That is where the clip is from.
 
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I just bought a tube of this stuff about 45 minutes ago - $8.99 at Princess Auto.

Can't wait to bust something so I can try it! ;)

Pete

Don’t get your hopes up. First attempt failed. Did not stick but it does not take a lot of heat to set this stuff off. Trying again but plan A may not be working.
 
Ok folks, I had my fun. Now time to move on. The paste is a no go. Will not stick. I was actually quite surprised but I guess the marketing is bigger than the product....at least in this application. Not wasting my time anymore (and sorry to have wasted yours). Will source a replacement.
 
If you really want something with easy valve service buy a Sportster they have this new fangled thing called hydraulic adjusters! Okay performance wise the XS650 can put the sportster to shame at half the displacement but does come close in the vibration department!
I own an "07" Sportster with 10K on it... I also own an "80" XS with 11K on it...

There's NO WAY the stock XS will put the stock Sportster to shame, at least NOT in a drag race or top speed run... as it shouldn't be able to...

Anyway, great thread, sorry for the little blip felt I needed add...

SR
 
EDIT: I think the issue is the pot metal composition of the carbs. That stuff is miserable to do anything with once it is cast. I want to try it on some aluminium.
 
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Well I could not leave well enough alone (another bad trait of mine). I was not going to let this thing beat me....and I didn't.

Ended up fabing up a brass sleeve from a piece of brass piping nipple at Home Depot. Together with some high strength chemcial resistant 5 minute epoxy, problem solved.

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To prep the broken pieces, I chamfered the edges of both halves being careful not to grind the middle of the broken piece as that is what set the height and orientation of the final fit. I then cut a slot with my grinder in both halves to grip the epoxy in the sleeve. This will ensure it does not move.

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Cut a length of pipe and then used my Dremel to cut out a slot to accept the gusset in the casting. It was a 1/8" brass pipe nipple that I used. The OD was 0.4" and ID was 0.275. Cut the length enough to accept the broken piece with about an 1/8" reveal on top so the epoxy can exit and fill the top .

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The trick was that the pipe needs to be very thin on one side as you can see in the picture. This is so the bowl can fit back on. I just kept grinding, marking and fitting until the bowl went on without any issues.

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I then cleaned everything with contact cleaner to get rid of any oil or flux from my previous attempt. Did a final dry fit to make sure everything would line up properly before the epoxy. Turns out an 8p finishing nail is the perfect fit. Used it because it was longer and allowed me to get a better hold of things until they set.

Filled the notch in the bottom half with epoxy and a bit around the post and then set the sleeve. Then filled the sleeve half way with epoxy and inserted the broken section using the nail to keep every thing lines up properly. Added a bit of epoxy to the gusset area to hold the sleeve. Turns out the epoxy I used sticks very well to this metal. ( LePage Instant Mix Speed Set Epoxy)

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Strong as hell. Literally tried to move the post and it did not budge. The epoxy is really just some added insurance. With just the sleeve the post stays in place since the bowl somewhat holds it in place.

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Float moves freely and no apparent issues. Will re-assemble and give it a go.
 
Picked up one of these today....should make the winter build a little easier.

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Will source a turn table similar to this to mount it to.
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Put the carbs back on and will try to get her started today. Keep you posted..........
 
Fitted the fuel bottle I made and then proceeded to start her up.

First shot on the starter without choke it fired right up and settled into a nice idle.......

Blipped the throttle and tracked nicely through the RPMs (at least as nicely enough without the air box). Let her only run a couple of minutes and then rechecked the compressions.

With the carbs now attached and open throttle (slides down) I still get great readings of 154 Left and 152 Right. No issues in that department. Shifts nicely through all the gears while running. Need to check electrics but I think we have a winner here.

Has some oil leaks that will need to be addressed once the engine comes out for a re-furbish. One of them seems to be coming from the starter area as it is dripping from the left side of the starter. More on that later.

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I own an "07" Sportster with 10K on it... I also own an "80" XS with 11K on it...

There's NO WAY the stock XS will put the stock Sportster to shame, at least NOT in a drag race or top speed run... as it shouldn't be able to...

Anyway, great thread, sorry for the little blip felt I needed add...

SR
Yea now that I reread what I wrote I should have worded it a bit different! Was actually comparing the 650 to an 883 The 883 being about half again the displacement. And guess the newer Sportsters with the rubber mounts may not have the vibrations of the pre 2004 models!
 
Got some more time to play again between meetings. Checked out the electrics and all good. 14.4v around 2000 rpm and voltage tracks nicely with rpm. All lighting works as needed. Thing starts better than my other two fuel injected bikes. Impressed so far. No sign of any fuel leaks at the carbs so floats are working ok.

May fire her up one last time for a good SeaFoam cleaning before disassembly. Nice to know most of my work will be cosmetic. More money to spend on dressing it up instead of making it go.
 
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