Question on priming oil to top end

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At least one screw loose behind the handle bars
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So I rebuilt a stock motor that I had planned to use for spare parts since the pistons were seized. Paid $50 for it in a rolling frame. Upon tear down the entire engine internals were in very good condition, except pistons/cylinders. Even the front cam chain guide was intact with plenty of plastic remaining. It was clear the motor had never been torn apart before, and the previous owner(s) just neglected it. Decided to rebuild it. I replaced pistons with over-sized from Cruzin Image, and bored out the cylinders. Had the heads/valves professionally done at a machine shop. Since it'll be several months before I'm ready to put this engine into a build, i wanted to make sure engine internals were well-lubricated in addition to the normal pre-lubing done during build-up process. I removed one of the bolts from the head at the top of the oil feed tube. Filled the motor with 20w-50 Valvoline. It's about 60 degrees f in the garage. Put teaspoon of 2-stroke oil in top of cylinders and left plugs out. Hooked up electric starter and proceeded to crank it over at 10-15 second intervals. I also left the side oil filter out. I thought I'd immediately see oil come to the top of the oil feed tube, but nothing. Is it due to the thick/cool oil? After cranking it several times, I removed the side cover to the oil filter and oil poured out, so I know the pump is working (at least to that point). Can anyone with experience comment on how long it should take to get oil to the top of the oil feed tube? Should I tear the oil pump down and re-measure clearances? Is this normal due to the relative low cranking speed of the starter? If so, what's this say for any cold-start mornings using 20w-50? Before anyone asks, yes, I made sure there was no blockage in the feed tube and passages prior to re-assembly.
 
Put the side filter in. The bolt that holds it is also the pressure relief valve. Without it, oil is just bypassing back to the sump.

Also, when I pre-oil, I take the valve adjusters out so the cam isn't forcing the valves open. It'll spin considerably faster.....
 
Good point, Jim. I'll loosen valve adjusters back up. I did have the filter in originally, but when I didn't see oil come to the top I removed it (think I saw that on another post as a recommendation).
 
If I remember..... prolly took 30-40 seconds on my last motor. That was with plugs out, adjusters out and a fully charged new battery. And I don't open up the feed tube, I just look for oil spilling down on all 4 rockers.
 
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Thanks, Jim. Yeah, I did that originally....looked for oil to the rockers but after several attempts and not seeing anything, loosed up the top feed bolt. I'll remove the adjusters, install the filter, and give it a go. Just seems like a long time to get lube to the top-end.
 
There is a restriction orifice in the fitting at the base of the cylinder oil feed tube, is it known to be clear and open?
 
Yes, made sure there were no restrictions. If Jim's suggestion doesn't work, will definitely pull the tube and troubleshoot from there. Thanks, Gary.
 
Yes...motor is completely assembled. Appreciate the checklist items.
 
Well, Jim. You were right. Removed the valve adjusters, re-installed oil filter, and about 40 seconds (several intervals) of cranking, oil flowed freely to the top rockers. I was paranoid for no reason, I guess, but it does seem like a long time before the top-end receives oil. This caused me to really study how the valve train gets lubricated overall. Looks like the valve-stem/springs only get residual oil splashed, is that correct?
 
but it does seem like a long time before the top-end receives oil.
When it's started and comes up to 1200-1500 rpm, it's only a matter of 5-10 sec. for oil flow.
Looks like the valve-stem/springs only get residual oil splashed, is that correct?
Yeah... rockers get (low) pressure lube because they're a bushing/shaft arrangement. No other way to get lube in that situation. Everything else... cam, cam bearings, chain, valve stem and springs are splash lube.
 
When it's started and comes up to 1200-1500 rpm, it's only a matter of 5-10 sec. for oil flow.

Reinforces my thinking that we should start these X650's regularly when in hibernation during winter months.
 
Remove one of the front valve covers and start kicking. If the floor and front of the bike is covered with oil after about a minute you're in business...
 
The oil filter bolt with the bypass doesn't bypass the oil to the sump. It only bypasses the filter. On the early bikes the bypass was in the pump housing and that one did bypass to the sump.
Having the filter out won't cause any flow problems. The filter takes up a bit of the cavities capacity. So it will take a bit more time to fill.
If you used plenty of assembly lube, A very thick oil, almost a grease, You can store an engine a long time.
Years maybe.
To store that engine I would wrap it up with plastic and put dessicant packs in with it to absorb any moisture. Help to prevent rust.
Leo
 
So do you recommend the hi-vol pump from Mike's then, 2M? Any other mods to increase flow to topend? Sorry, this may have been thoroughly addressed in your related thread...still reading through it.
 
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