K a while back I did this, talked about it. But today I did a repeat on the sawzall refugee.
Here's the drill; all brake parts fully stripped, cleaned, MC reassembled, only thing new was the brake line.
Rebuilt master cylinder mounted on handlebars, brake line firmly bolted to MC, lower end of line hanging down by fork leg with banjo bolt, washers and a 12mm wrench laid out handy.
Turn MC and handlebars so the brake line banjo is lower than the MC piston, just slightly lower is fine. NO fluid in MC yet.
Seal, piston, caliper lubed with a bit of brake fluid.Do not mount caliper in bracket yet. Seal in, piston pushed in to check for free movement, then backed out til it's bottom is just fully engaged with the seal. Now like the pic, bare caliper on the bench, bleed valve in and snug, caliper tipped so brake line port is at top. Slowly fill caliper with brake fluid, til you can see it start to rise into the banjo hole threads. Take caliper over to bike, attach brake line, snug up banjo bolt. Take a 6" c-clamp and slowly retract piston all the way. If you have a helper let them watch in reservoir as you do this, keep caliper low, brake line all uphill to MC, fluid will come up about 3/8" into reservoir as the piston bottoms in the caliper. Add some fluid to reservoir. You can prolly skip this next step but I think it's worth doing; pump brake handle till piston moves out a good ways, push it back in again with c-clamp, you will likely see a few more bubbles. Now install dust seal and clamp on caliper piston, install pad spring, install pads into bracket. Install caliper into bracket, install bracket on fork leg. Install inner pad retainer screw. Pump handle to seat pads against rotor. DONE, firm lever, ready to ride. You won't even need to crack the bleeder open.
Try it you'll never do it the old way again, I gggGaryantee it.
Here's the drill; all brake parts fully stripped, cleaned, MC reassembled, only thing new was the brake line.
Rebuilt master cylinder mounted on handlebars, brake line firmly bolted to MC, lower end of line hanging down by fork leg with banjo bolt, washers and a 12mm wrench laid out handy.
Turn MC and handlebars so the brake line banjo is lower than the MC piston, just slightly lower is fine. NO fluid in MC yet.
Seal, piston, caliper lubed with a bit of brake fluid.Do not mount caliper in bracket yet. Seal in, piston pushed in to check for free movement, then backed out til it's bottom is just fully engaged with the seal. Now like the pic, bare caliper on the bench, bleed valve in and snug, caliper tipped so brake line port is at top. Slowly fill caliper with brake fluid, til you can see it start to rise into the banjo hole threads. Take caliper over to bike, attach brake line, snug up banjo bolt. Take a 6" c-clamp and slowly retract piston all the way. If you have a helper let them watch in reservoir as you do this, keep caliper low, brake line all uphill to MC, fluid will come up about 3/8" into reservoir as the piston bottoms in the caliper. Add some fluid to reservoir. You can prolly skip this next step but I think it's worth doing; pump brake handle till piston moves out a good ways, push it back in again with c-clamp, you will likely see a few more bubbles. Now install dust seal and clamp on caliper piston, install pad spring, install pads into bracket. Install caliper into bracket, install bracket on fork leg. Install inner pad retainer screw. Pump handle to seat pads against rotor. DONE, firm lever, ready to ride. You won't even need to crack the bleeder open.
Try it you'll never do it the old way again, I gggGaryantee it.
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.... install the caliper and done. Slightly different way of a "no bleed" brake job.
