YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Deleted. I had ordered a wiring harness from Lowbrow Customs, but it turned out to be the female ends, which I did not need.
Last edited:
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
regulator rectifier
- Thread starter 4stroke
- Start date
-
- Tags
- electrical
I can't really recomend any of these options.
Build your own, You will learn a lot and get a better harness.
Leo
Build your own, You will learn a lot and get a better harness.
Leo
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
I tend to agree. Consistent with your Signature on your posts too. 
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
I've got my 3-phase rectifier from ebay. I picked up a couple of black anodized heat sinks (1.38" x 1.38" x 0.709") with adhesive backing from LEDSupply.com. The heat sinks are nice and were inexpensive, but I'm not sure how to securely (i.e ., beyond just using adhesive and heat sink compound) mount them to the rectifier.
Since I have 2 heat sinks, I'll drill a hole in the center in one and otherwise try to clear a flat landing (in fairly thin base) for running a bolt through and securing with a washer & nut(s).
Perhaps I could use a big flat aluminum washer on top of fins to secure heat sink to rectifier where pressure would be equally distributed on top....?
Ideas?
If this doesn't work, I'll get a hunk of flat, square 1/2" aluminum for a heat sink and be done with it.
Since I have 2 heat sinks, I'll drill a hole in the center in one and otherwise try to clear a flat landing (in fairly thin base) for running a bolt through and securing with a washer & nut(s).
Perhaps I could use a big flat aluminum washer on top of fins to secure heat sink to rectifier where pressure would be equally distributed on top....?
Ideas?
If this doesn't work, I'll get a hunk of flat, square 1/2" aluminum for a heat sink and be done with it.
Attachments
Last edited:
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
http://vintageconnections.com
For the record, Vintage Connections indicated that I needed their MP6N Non-Latching Set which has both male and female 6-pin 6.3 mm (0.25") spade connectors. This is for replacing the connectors for the stock (stand-alone) Rectifier for 650's like my C. With this set, you also get 7 each of 18-16 AWG 6.3mm crimp terminals (both male and female).
For replacement connectors for the 3-wire (black, brown, green) Regulator, Vintage Connections said to go with their MP3N Non-Latching Set which is 3-pin of the same connectors listed above. With this set, you also get 4 each of 18-16 AWG 6.3mm crimp terminals (both male and female).
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Cool. i guess I'm stuck in Pergatory for the moment as I havent ordered yet. I was pleased to get a fast response via email from VC today about what I needed. I had sent them a link to Photobucket images of these two 2 connectors.
I had initially sent and received an email from Joe Scavone from the site below. He doesn't have the non-latching type connectors, so he actually suggested that I check out VC, which was pretty cool of him.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
I may get a ratcheting crimper tool (ECT 005) and terminal extraction and removal tools from CycleTerminal.
Do you plan on replacing both the male & female connectors on your regulator and rectifier? Not having them in hand, I'm wondering whether the male connectors from VC are compatible with the stock female connectors on our harnesses (in the case of both the rectifier and regulator).
Here is another site I came across:
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
I had initially sent and received an email from Joe Scavone from the site below. He doesn't have the non-latching type connectors, so he actually suggested that I check out VC, which was pretty cool of him.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
I may get a ratcheting crimper tool (ECT 005) and terminal extraction and removal tools from CycleTerminal.
Do you plan on replacing both the male & female connectors on your regulator and rectifier? Not having them in hand, I'm wondering whether the male connectors from VC are compatible with the stock female connectors on our harnesses (in the case of both the rectifier and regulator).
Here is another site I came across:
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
Last edited:
Yes, silicon based, the mob i bought the rectifiers from gave me a small tube because i bought 10 at a time due to a discount for bulk.
I remember Pamcopete's warning about to big of a heat sink causing over cooling. Not good apparently, don't ask me i can't answer why, Pete or RG will know.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Below is some 7/11/13 feedback from Vintage Connections:
"I would recommend replacing both the male and female housings
simultaneously, in case there are minor dimensional differences between
what you have and what you're adding.
You can extract the factory wires/terminals from the existing housing pair,
using our ETL terminal extraction tool, and then reinsert the existing
terminals into the new housing pair. If you extract and transfer the wires
one at a time, you can easily avoid getting your wires crossed in the new
pair.
There will also be a full set of new terminals that comes with the housing
pairs, in case you decide that one or more of the existing terminals aren't
in that great of shape, after you extract them and get a better look at
their condition.
I'm currently extremely low in inventory of RTL crimping tools and so right
now we cannot sell the tool by itself. To do so would jeopardize our
ability to sell complete connector kits, with crimping tool, pending
receipt of our new tool shipment in mid-August.
Our CK-2 kit does already include the MP3N housing pair that you need, I
will throw a MP6N pair into the shipment for free, if you decide to get a
complete CK-2 kit.
I know that's overkill for your need, but that's all I can offer to you,
until around mid-August. We have no control over the fact that we were
burglarized and had 300 crimping tools stolen from our storage area, about
three weeks ago.
When the last few tools I have on hand are sold with kits, I will be forced
to completely shut down the site, until the new tools arrive. Most of the
housings/terminals we sell are virtually worthless, without the proper
installation tool and there's no way that I'm going to back-order crimping
tools and then eat the shipping costs of $10 per tool to send them out
later.
That's all that I have to offer at the present time".
Del Gundlach
Vintage Connections
40087 Mission Boulevard #212
Fremont CA 94539
*****
Original email:
-----------------
From:
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 17:30:23 +0000
To: admin@vintageconnections.com
Subject: RE: RE: Request for Information About Connector Kits
Follow-up questions:
1) Are you suggesting that I need to replace both male and female
connectors (on both 3 and 6) with your products?
2) What type of crimper or other tools do I need to make up new
connectors/terminals? Is there a tool that also pries out the old
terminals?
Thanks!
"I would recommend replacing both the male and female housings
simultaneously, in case there are minor dimensional differences between
what you have and what you're adding.
You can extract the factory wires/terminals from the existing housing pair,
using our ETL terminal extraction tool, and then reinsert the existing
terminals into the new housing pair. If you extract and transfer the wires
one at a time, you can easily avoid getting your wires crossed in the new
pair.
There will also be a full set of new terminals that comes with the housing
pairs, in case you decide that one or more of the existing terminals aren't
in that great of shape, after you extract them and get a better look at
their condition.
I'm currently extremely low in inventory of RTL crimping tools and so right
now we cannot sell the tool by itself. To do so would jeopardize our
ability to sell complete connector kits, with crimping tool, pending
receipt of our new tool shipment in mid-August.
Our CK-2 kit does already include the MP3N housing pair that you need, I
will throw a MP6N pair into the shipment for free, if you decide to get a
complete CK-2 kit.
I know that's overkill for your need, but that's all I can offer to you,
until around mid-August. We have no control over the fact that we were
burglarized and had 300 crimping tools stolen from our storage area, about
three weeks ago.
When the last few tools I have on hand are sold with kits, I will be forced
to completely shut down the site, until the new tools arrive. Most of the
housings/terminals we sell are virtually worthless, without the proper
installation tool and there's no way that I'm going to back-order crimping
tools and then eat the shipping costs of $10 per tool to send them out
later.
That's all that I have to offer at the present time".
Del Gundlach
Vintage Connections
40087 Mission Boulevard #212
Fremont CA 94539
*****
Original email:
-----------------
From:
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 17:30:23 +0000
To: admin@vintageconnections.com
Subject: RE: RE: Request for Information About Connector Kits
Follow-up questions:
1) Are you suggesting that I need to replace both male and female
connectors (on both 3 and 6) with your products?
2) What type of crimper or other tools do I need to make up new
connectors/terminals? Is there a tool that also pries out the old
terminals?
Thanks!
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Basic question:
When using new wiring to make up new connectors for replacement rectifier and regulator, what size/gauge of wire should be used?
When using new wiring to make up new connectors for replacement rectifier and regulator, what size/gauge of wire should be used?
I'm using mostly original stuff from old harnesses. I think it's 18ga.
Somewhere on his web site, he let on that his $15 terminal removal tool was from Lisle. I found it cheaper on Amazon so ordered it there .....
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14900-Wire-Terminal-Trouble/dp/B0002STTQG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z
Somewhere on his web site, he let on that his $15 terminal removal tool was from Lisle. I found it cheaper on Amazon so ordered it there .....
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14900-Wire-Terminal-Trouble/dp/B0002STTQG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z
I bought a similar 'terminal removal tool', for around $20, and was COMPLETELY DISAPPOINTED. All you really need is a small flat screwdriver or flat pick, that will fit down inside the terminal block. There is a small 'tab' in the metal crimp-on end of each wire that holds in in the terminal block. You just need to depress this tab as you pull the wire out... NO SPECIAL TOOL NEEDED.
I own the special tool, and still prefer to use a small screwdriver from an eyeglasses repair kit. The tool is so big and bulky (compared to a small screwdriver), its awkward to hold and it makes it hard to see down into the terminal once the tool is inserted. Just use a cheap tiny screwdriver or pick.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
After crimping the wires and terminals and before inserting them into the plastic or nylon connectors, is there any need to also solder the wire/terminal connection or is a proper crimp all that is necessary when using connectors?
A PROPER crimp is more than enough. What most call a proper crimp just ain't.
If in doubt a PROPER solder job is good. And again what most call proper soldering ain't.
If when you solder you get things so hot the solder runs up the wire beyond the connection is not good. This makes a stiff spot. stiff spots can break.
This is why a GOOD crimp is better than a poor solder job.
Leo
If in doubt a PROPER solder job is good. And again what most call proper soldering ain't.
If when you solder you get things so hot the solder runs up the wire beyond the connection is not good. This makes a stiff spot. stiff spots can break.
This is why a GOOD crimp is better than a poor solder job.
Leo
I just finished up a couple rectifiers and jumper (adapter) cables for the VR-115 regulators. With the proper crimping tool and terminals from Vintage Connections, I didn't see the need to solder them. They came out very, very nice, in most cases just as good as the factory installed ones. I'll get some pics up soon.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks, Leo. Very helpful & instructive.
5twins, PLEASE provide a few images (or videos) on how to properly orient/load the 6.3 mm (.250) spade terminals into a crimper. I know its a 2-step process using the crimper, first the conductor (wire) and then the insulator. I'll practice all day long and have butchered a number of terminals, but I really need to first know how to load them into the crimper.
I'm using an Eclipse Crimper that I bought from Cycleterminal.com. I have .250 14-18 AWG male & female terminals and 16 gauge wire.
5twins, PLEASE provide a few images (or videos)
on how to properly orient/load the 6.3 mm (.250) spade terminals into a crimper. I know its a 2-step process using the crimper, first the conductor (wire) and then the insulator. I'll practice all day long and have butchered a number of terminals, but I really need to first know how to load them into the crimper.I'm using an Eclipse Crimper that I bought from Cycleterminal.com. I have .250 14-18 AWG male & female terminals and 16 gauge wire.
Attachments
You have the dual crimper which should do the terminals in one step, crimping both the wire part and the insulation part. Follow the instructions here .....
http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tool-help.html
Something not mentioned above but explained over at Vintage Connections is to bend the outer "ears" on the crimp, the ones that will close on the insulation, in slightly by hand before setting the terminal in the tool. You simply pinch them closed slightly with your fingers so they are bent towards each other a little. That allows you to set the terminal in the tool and close it down so it locks onto it. Just close the tool down enough so the ratchet catches and holds the terminal, don't crimp it all the way. Then it's a simple matter to insert the wire and finish the crimping process.
While your tool is designed to do a crimp in one step, you may want to do it first in the largest 10-12 slot, then do it again in the 14-18 one to get it tighter (if need be). If you look at the pic of your tool jaws, the open side or the "ears" of the crimp will face up, into the "butt cheek" shaped jaws, and the closed or bottom side will sit on the half moon shaped lower jaw. The insulation crimping "ears" will go into the deeper "butt cheek", the wire crimping ones into the shallower one.
I'm going to help a guy with some wiring today so I'll get some pics.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tool-help.html
Something not mentioned above but explained over at Vintage Connections is to bend the outer "ears" on the crimp, the ones that will close on the insulation, in slightly by hand before setting the terminal in the tool. You simply pinch them closed slightly with your fingers so they are bent towards each other a little. That allows you to set the terminal in the tool and close it down so it locks onto it. Just close the tool down enough so the ratchet catches and holds the terminal, don't crimp it all the way. Then it's a simple matter to insert the wire and finish the crimping process.
While your tool is designed to do a crimp in one step, you may want to do it first in the largest 10-12 slot, then do it again in the 14-18 one to get it tighter (if need be). If you look at the pic of your tool jaws, the open side or the "ears" of the crimp will face up, into the "butt cheek" shaped jaws, and the closed or bottom side will sit on the half moon shaped lower jaw. The insulation crimping "ears" will go into the deeper "butt cheek", the wire crimping ones into the shallower one.
I'm going to help a guy with some wiring today so I'll get some pics.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thank you.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
5twins,
Did you end up replacing both female and male plastic connectors with new ones or only the connectors that housed the male spade terminals on your rectifier & regulator? I figure the old female housings will match up OK with the new male housings, but assume it may be best to replace both though more time & effort is involved. I assume one will get better conductivity with clean & shiny terminals as compared with oxidized/tarnished old ones.
Did you end up replacing both female and male plastic connectors with new ones or only the connectors that housed the male spade terminals on your rectifier & regulator? I figure the old female housings will match up OK with the new male housings, but assume it may be best to replace both though more time & effort is involved. I assume one will get better conductivity with clean & shiny terminals as compared with oxidized/tarnished old ones.
Similar threads
