regulator rectifier

That depends on the connector block condition. On mine, I will probably not replace the originals on the harness because they are in good shape. On Tommy's, they needed replacing. The rectifier block was partially melted with the ground wire burned right out of it. His 3 terminal regulator block was gone, eliminated by the P.O. who hard wired the reg/rec into the harness. Yes, it was a mess. The new blocks match and mate with the old blocks perfectly so there's no need to change both on that account.

When I use old stuff, it gets thoroughly cleaned. The wires and connector blocks are cleaned with the Tannery and the crimps removed from the blocks and polished bright and shiny again with a wire wheel in a Dremel. They get a light coat of dielectric grease before going back in the blocks. Tommy's rectifier got renovated 6 terminal latching blocks on it and on his harness. The wires w/crimps were removed from his original melted block, polished, and installed in the replacement. One new crimp was added, to fix the melted ground wire. The P.O. had already run a new ground but had it attached to the rectifier mount, not in the plug anymore. It was a simple matter to add the proper crimp and put it back in the block.

We unwrapped the harness on the left side of the battery box and found the original brown, green, and black (ground) wires that the original 3 block connecter for the regulator had run to. A renovated 3 terminal block was hard wired back in to return the harness to its original configuration. Then it was a simple matter to attach the new VR-115 regulator to that.

I'm happy to report that his bike is now back up and running and charging perfectly. He's seeing about 12.5 to 12.7 at idle and a steady 14.5 or 6 revved. It took a rotor, alternator, regulator, and rectifier to remedy. We swapped another alternator in because the wires on his were all chewed up by the chain, some nearly cut through. Once I fix the wires, we'll swap it back in. Biggest P.O. SNAFU I've had to deal with so far.
 
OK, finally got some pics uploaded. First, the slight pinching of the crimp tabs so they fit in the tool easily. They will sit in the tool just as pictured, with the open side in the "butt cheek" shaped jaw. The outer tabs for the wire insulation go into the deeper part of the jaw .....

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Next is the homemade rectifier. I purchased a couple of the 3 phase units off of eBay that RG linked to, about $12 each. I scrounged some old heat sinks from old junk computer CPUs to use as the base .....

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An "L" shaped mounting tab was attached so the new unit could hang off the bottom of the battery box just like the original.

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Longer bolts were used to attach the mounting bracket so another wire harness holding tab could be added on top .....

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The little rectifier unit was mounted in heat sink paste and all the bolts that will not ever be removed were blue locktited in place.

Last up is the VR-115 install. Only one original mounting bolt hole can be aligned so a little adapter plate was made up to catch the second .....

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To ease fabbing it, a card stock template was made up first and once verified for fit, transferred to metal .....

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The wires from the VR-115 are very short. Rather than cut the plug off and extend the wires, an extension that plugs in was made up. This also addresses the issue of combining the yellow and red (or orange) wires. Four wires run through the extension with two combined on one crimp at the 3 connector block .....

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Great pics and descriptions, 5twins! Very helpful and giving me some ideas.

I have the little heat sink that I posted image of and I also have a 2" x 2" square of 1/2" aluminum that I might use by simply drilling a hole dead center and attaching to rectifier. The center hole in rectifier will only accommodate a 4 mm bolt. I 'd like to run something closer to 6 or 8 mm diameter to secure to the bottom of the battery box since 4 mm is a little skinny. Not sure whether I can widen the hole in the rectifier w/o screwing it up. Have been looking into adapters to go to a larger thread.

Thanks again for helpful images.
 
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My rectifier unit would accept an M5, which was fine for attaching it to the heat sink. I went M6 for the actual mount of the unit to the bike, just like stock. The Yamaha engineers figured a lot of this stuff out for us. I follow their lead most of the time.
 
Where did you pick up those red, black & white insulated female terminals for the rectifier? I like those.

Did ya'll spray paint the regulator? My VR-115 is shiny metal.

On the rectifier, I think I'll have to offset the the rectifier under my aluminum heat sink plate, so I can run a separate, long 6 mm bolt up to battery box instead of a planned straight shot with a bolt from under the rectifier, through the heat sink to battery box. Just thinking out loud here...
 
My VR-115 came black however the one Tommy bought was silver like yours. I guess it just depends on the supplier. The crimps I used at the rectifier were bare. That's just shrink tubing covering them. I had the black and white from assortment bags I've picked up over the years. The red I ordered from McMaster-Carr. They have a bunch of colors and diameters. I figured red would be handy to have for I.D.ing hot or power wires.
 
Cool. I love ordering from McMaster-Carr. They are great to deal with & ship fast.

What has happened to your images? They're all X'd out, even on other threads. Photobucket issue or server issue? Maybe its on my end....here at work.
 
It may be on your end because I'm still seeing them and the albums are still marked as "Public", I just checked.
 
I'm still toying around with mounting options for my eBay 3-phase bridge Rectifier. Yes, my pace is "glacial" to say the least. I will use a 2" x 2" piece of aluminum for the heat sink and a Z-Bracket (McMaster-Carr) for mounting underneath battery box.

Because the mounting hole is not circular, but is squared off (not sure what this type bolt is called), it won't accomodate anything larger than a 6mm bolt unless I drill out the hole from above so I can use an 8mm. The stock bolt takes a 8mm nut. It is apparent that the purpose of this modified bolt is to prevent rotation of the rectifier.

My rectifier will also accept an M5 hex bolt through the middle, not sure why I was thinking that only a 4mm would fit...
 

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If you look at the stock mounting bolt it just has the threads ground off on one edge so it fits the flat sided hole in the battery box.
Do you have a larger piece of aluminum? Is so mount both the regulator and rectifier on the plate with the mount bolt between the reg a rec. Then just mount this plate to the bottom of the battery box.
Or use a L bracket and mount the plate off one of the rear engine mount bolts so it sets behind the verticle frame tube like the later bikes do.
Leo
 
I can get a larger piece of aluminum to accomodate both components. I like that idea since the VR-115 regulator doesn't mount directly to where the stock one did w/o some creative bracket fabrication.

I'm still putting my top-end together, so I'm in no hurry with this electrical stuff.

Any need to use heat sink compound between the aluminum plate and Regulator like I plan to use under the Rectifier?

Thanks, Leo.
 
No need for heat sink paste on the regulator. It wouldn't do anything anyway. The mounts stand away from the unit. The unit itself doesn't touch the surface you're mounting it to. The VR-115 is pretty big. I don't know if you'll fit it and the rectifier under the battery box. At least not without even more creative bracket making than it would take to mount it on the side where the original was. There's nothing to making that bracket. It's just a triangle with 3 holes. Now this one, for my Pamco fuse and incorporating a grommet for the wires, was a bit more difficult .....

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I tend to agree with your comment that adequate room for both under the battery box may be an issue.

Nice work there shown in your images.
 
Yes, I do nice work, not a whole hell of a lot of it, but nice, lol.
 
I finally finished up work on my regulator and rectifier.

VR-115 Voltage Regulator

I made a bracket like 5twins did, but went with a 1/4" piece of Eastman Spectar copolyester PETG. Cuts great on a bandsaw and drills holes nicely. Used 6mm hex head bolts. I salvaged 2 rubber bushings with metal inserts from my old regulator. Since I oriented the wiring upwards, I was able to make a direct connection to factory harness under the seat on left side using a new 5-spade plastic connector I made up. Use of the bushings caused the regulator to stand off quite a bit from the frame, but when I mounted the side cover, there was plenty of room to spare.

http://www.xs650.com/media/albums/2014/
 
anyone still checking this thread able to lend some advise? i have a 79 converted over to a non points with the reg/rect off mikes xs... when i charge the battery full turn on my power i get 12.7ish from fuse to reg/rect but off of the reg it only feeds my rotor brushes like 9.8-10v??? re checked all my grounds and ended up replacing the reg/rect to find it only gives me the same exact thing. i once put a jumper straight from battery + to the brushes and got my stator to give me a full 14.5ish but without the jumper im only getting 12.5-12.7ish????
 
Fabrication of Mounting Bracket for 35 Amp 3-Phase Bridge Rectifier

I used a Z-Bracket from McMaster Carr (PN 1030A12). For heat sink, I used a 2" x 2" piece of aluminum (~3/16" thick). To fasten the aluminum securely to the bracket, I had to countersink 2 holes in the aluminum to install two short flat head hex bolts. A third hole (5mm dia.) was drilled to secure the rectifier to the bracket using an M5 bolt. Heat sink compound was used. I finally perfected using my dual crimper. Heat shrink tubing was used on the 5 wire bundle and each of the female 6.3 mm female spade terminals connected to the rectifier.

I learned how to do a few new things and had fun too.

http://www.xs650.com/media/albums/2013/

Forgot to mention that I used a 25/64" drill bit to widen the rectifier mounting hole beneath the battery box. With the big mounting hole on the Z-Bracket (see 3rd image above), I went with a short but stout M10 bolt and nylon lock washer to secure the part.
 
hey dunno how easy it is for you to find but a great way to have an already made heat disperser is to just yank one off an old broken computer and pop some holes in it..comes pre finned and in all sorts of colors n shapes if you wanna look hard enough fer a perticular shape or color...just a thought though...i might be kinda new at yanking apart xs's but fabrication i manage to get a few ideas every now n then
 
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