removal of gear train cover not so easy

[marp68]

I was going to remove the gear train cover to change the gasket, but found out that the upper part of the cover is blocked for removal by the chain guide (the guide right under the drive sprocket).

I have to remove the chain guide to enable straight out removal of the gear train cover.

The chain guide is slided onto the gear change axle and secured by two bolts, of which one is the upper gear train cover bolt. This one comes off when unmounting the gear train cover.

The other securing bolt is, however, one of the crankcase bolts, the one to the right of the drive axle.

Is it okej to loosen this bolt without damaging the mounting of the crankcases? Will it maybe cause it leak oil between the crankcases at this point? Or something else, maybe worse?



/Martin

 

[retiredgentleman]

marp68;

Go ahead and remove the nut, and take off the bracket. It will not cause any problems. Just be sure to re-torque it when you are done.

 

[gggGary]

RG if you are going to take engine pictures at least clean it up a bit first.

 

[I am Carbon]

RG if you are going to take engine pictures at least clean it up a bit first.

 

[retiredgentleman]

OK OK...............I confess, I'm a bit of a clean freak

 

[marp68]

Big thanks! Anyone knows if I have to remove it completely or just loosen it, to remove the chain guide part?

And RG, that's a nice clean engine.

And what a bout the cover? Should I be careful when removing it, will anything fall out, is anything attached to the cover? I removed all cover bolts before realizing the chain guide issue. And when jerking the cover, a sprocket inside (had two philips head screws on it) started to came loose and out. Maybe it will not be stuck to the cover, when I remove the cover straight out after removing the chain guide. Or?

Don't know if you saw my other thread about broken gear train bolt. I could now see that the bolt was off at the surface of the bolt hole. Since it's barely 5-7 cm between the frame and the bolt hole (the lower one), I would have to remove the engine to remove the rest of the bolt using special tools.

So my intentios is to fill up the bolt hole in the cover with expoxy, or something, to seal it and to put on a new gasket together with some silicone gasket. Hopefulle the rest of the cover bolts will keep it together enough to seal the whole thing.

Or any other suggestions?

M

 

[marp68]

Anyone knows the torque settings for the chain guide bolt?

 

[5twins]

You can just loosen the nut on that engine stud, you don't need to remove it. The chain guide mount is slotted so it slips on and off ....

The cover bolts are M6. Torque spec is 5-8 ft/lbs but being an old bike, I wouldn't go over 7.

 

[retiredgentleman]

The chain guide bolt/nut looks to be a 8 mm thread (measure to be sure), so that would use 14 ft-lbs.

If I remember correctly, the 2 gears come out with the cover ,as seen in my picture. I think its just a floating shaft held between the cover and the engine.

A broken bolt can be a problem for sure..................too many PO's don't have torque wrenches or don't know how to use them Some guys claim to have the "feel" for tightening bolts, but there is no substitute for a torque wrench ) a calibrated one is even nicer)

The only right way is to use an easy-out or left hand drill bit to get the broken bolt piece removed. Using just 5 bolts and a gasket may still seep oil??

 

[cros36]

i have to say it, drain your oil first as well.

 

[marp68]

RG, you're absolutely right. don't know what I was thinking when I was just going to tight it a liiiittle bit trying to seal it better. This is how it goes when one tries the easy way, instead of draining the oil and change the gasket in the first place...

I do know about easy out and similar methods, but the problem is that specifically this hole is located just in front of the frame. Only approx 7 cm between the frame and the hole. So no way to drill straight in. Have to remove the engine to enabling this. Or lift the engine approx. 2-3 cm.

Anyone with a loose engine in frame that could try to lift it and measure? It's the lower gear train cover bolt hole that should be liftted above the frame in front of it.

Anyway, I've removed the cover. No problems.

A friend had a Dremel with a long tube mounted on it. Sort of dentist drill, which made it possible to drill more straight into the bolt. Managed to drill 4 mm into the bolt. Will buy an easy out. Hopefully it will drive the bolt out.


M

 

[marp68]

Hey... Had a look at the engine and frame again...

If the easy out used from an angle doesn't work...

Isn't it so, that in order to remove the engine from the frame, the engine must first be lifted up a bit, since the lower part of the engine is situated lower than the horisontal lower part of the frame?

And since the lower gear train bolt hole is situated higher up than the lowest part of the engine, the bolt hole will most definitely be clear from the frame, when the engine is lifted enough to enable removal of the engine.

Am I on the right track here? And must one remove the carbs to be able to lift the engine?

Don't want to remove the engine just to fix this broken bolt...

 

[marp68]

The easy out did work!!!

Yippeee!!!

Managed to get the damn broken bolt out, so now I don't need to lift or remove the engine.

Just put all things back again, new gasket, new bolts and correct torque settings.

I'm thinking of using allen bolts this time. WHat do you say?

Thanks for your help and mental support

 

[retiredgentleman]

That's why they are called easy outs..............its so easy.

Allen head bolts are nice for things that need to come apart quite often, or in awkward locations, and are a 1000% improvement over those nasty phillip head screws.

Regular hex head bolts work fine for most places, and are likely fine for that gear cover.