Removing a Stuck Brake Bleed Screw

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From time to time members ask questions about how to remove stuck studs from castings.

While refurbing some brake callipers I encountered a stuck bleed screw. It was rounded and a heat gun and vise grips would not budge it. On the plus side it was not snapped off and easy to get at.

My favourite method is to use a welder to heat the stud.

Fit a nut to the remains of the stud. In this case I had to drill the thread out of the nut. Weld the nut to the stud (bleed screw). Let it cool a bit and unscrew it. On the third attempt it came out. No damage to calliper.

Whole process took 25 mins and that includes rummaging around for then drilling the nuts and taking photos. Actually creating this post took longer than doing the deed.

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From time to time members ask questions about how to remove stuck studs from castings.

While refurbing some brake callipers I encountered a stuck bleed screw. It was rounded and a heat gun and vise grips would not budge it. On the plus side it was not snapped off and easy to get at.

My favourite method is to use a welder to heat the stud.

Fit a nut to the remains of the stud. In this case I had to drill the thread out of the nut. Weld the nut to the stud (bleed screw). Let it cool a bit and unscrew it. On the third attempt it came out. No damage to calliper.

Whole process took 25 mins and that includes rummaging around for then drilling the nuts and taking photos. Actually creating this post took longer than doing the deed.

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Thanks guys, I posted that as I despair when I see people drilling out studs as in my experience it is difficult to do without causing damage.

Plan B was to use Alum to dissolve the nipple but I have never used that method.
 
The bleed screw was easy this one was slightly more difficult.
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Getting some RD 350 cases ready for cleaning and had another stuck screw.
First method I tried was reverse grinding a drill bit and drilling the head with the drill in reverse. As the bit bites it can unscrew the bolt. This did not work it sometimes does so was worth a try.

Ended up with a small stub of the screw remaining. Time for the welder.

Filed a 6mm nut down so it fitted nicely over the stub.
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Weld nut to stub.
Unscrew.
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Job done what would have been better would have been to put the machined part of the nut towards the case. That way when it was unscrewed it would have not put scratches in the surface of the housing. The damage was not bad but could have been avoided completely if I had been thinking.
 
On the brake bleeder. If you can't remove it by this or other normal means you can still salvage the caliper. Most parts stores sell a kit. You drill out the old bleeder large enough to thread in the adapter that come in the kit. This adapter has a new bleed screw in it, Once in place and tight you have a new bleeder.
Leo
 
On the brake bleeder. If you can't remove it by this or other normal means you can still salvage the caliper. Most parts stores sell a kit. You drill out the old bleeder large enough to thread in the adapter that come in the kit. This adapter has a new bleed screw in it, Once in place and tight you have a new bleeder.
Leo

Great info Leo - I haven't had occasion to need one of those.....yet....
 
With my welding, I'd have a hole burned in the case or caliper, nowhere near the broken bolt. I saw a set of five left hand drill bits online and in stock at AutoZone for $9.99. Steel bolts can be a bitch when corroded to cast alloy.

Scott
 
With my welding, I'd have a hole burned in the case or caliper, nowhere near the broken bolt. I saw a set of five left hand drill bits online and in stock at AutoZone for $9.99. Steel bolts can be a bitch when corroded to cast alloy.

Scott

For sure Scott.

Keep warm everyone - Daniel Black and I are having lunch today in the 90 deg F weather....ahhhh, how sweet it is!
 
From time to time members ask questions about how to remove stuck studs from castings.

While refurbing some brake callipers I encountered a stuck bleed screw. It was rounded and a heat gun and vise grips would not budge it. On the plus side it was not snapped off and easy to get at.

My favourite method is to use a welder to heat the stud.

Fit a nut to the remains of the stud. In this case I had to drill the thread out of the nut. Weld the nut to the stud (bleed screw). Let it cool a bit and unscrew it. On the third attempt it came out. No damage to calliper.

Never had to use that method on a bleeder but have used it many times on an exhaust manifold stud in a diesel engine. I'm not a welder but find a little 120 volt wire feed welder works real good for this type of thing as it lets you get a good shot at the small hole in the nut.

One other thing that maybe helping you with this method is the different rates of expansion between the steel bleeder screw and the aluminum caliper.

I was lucky with the caliper on the 1982 XS650 I'm working on, the bleeder came loose nice and easy!
 
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