Removing cam / advance rod bushing bushings how to?

gggGary

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So I want to remove the bushings preferably without destroying them, anyone done it? How?

quick lazy search didn't turn up any how to's.



Some guru should make me a video and post a link here so I can watch it on my phone..........
 
It seems some one has. I think they used a bushing puller. A tool with adjustable jaws that fit inside a bushing so the jaws lock onto the bushing, then attached to a sliding weight puller.
Other than that I can't say much.
Leo
 
Most O'Reilley's have a blind bearing puller in their tool rental pool. It's the cleanest way I think to do it without wrecking them. Might ding them a little, but not like you would lose a lot of bearing surface.
 
what I was thinking not much of lip there except the grooves in the labyrinth seal.

CAMSHAFT_-_CHAIN_TENSIONER_XS650C.png


2 90386-12093-00 BUSH $8.99 $7.51 2


3 256-11155-00-00 SEAL, LABYRINTH $23.49 $17.17 2
 
Wow, that labyrinth seal costs a good buck, huh.
 
The easiest method I've found for getting the bushings out without damage is a blind hole bearing puller with expanding collets threaded onto a slide hammer. You can spend a lot of money on a set, but the one from Harbor Freight does fine for this job and many others--pulling swingarm bearings and wheel bearings, etc. The collets have an edge on the business end that will grip the edge of the piece being extracted, and it's easier to feel for the edge than you'd think; much harder to tear things up with it than with jaw-type pullers. Once you have the tool you'll wonder how you got anything done without it.
 
Could you ever do it with a long rod of steel with just enough bow in it to tap from the opposite side and get the easiest one out first, second one be easy after that.

Rod being just enough undersized to allow some play for the slight angle you would need.

Thinking along the lines of taking out wheel bearings, except you will be working with a much smaller access hole.
 
Could you ever do it with a long rod of steel with just enough bow in it to tap from the opposite side and get the easiest one out first, second one be easy after that.

Rod being just enough undersized to allow some play for the slight angle you would need.

Thinking along the lines of taking out wheel bearings, except you will be working with a much smaller access hole.

I made several like that years ago, slight bend at end, ground to fit bearing recess.
I read here that another member had success using expanding toggle-type wallboard anchors...
 
So far I welded a nut on a rod, turned it to 12mm slotted it put it in the cam tapped a screw driver into the slot to expand it, tapped and: got "one" seal out...............
 
Too funny, twomany! Got em out. Expanding rod mark 1A version, built up the end with weld, turned to 12mm with a taper so the very end was the largest OD. Hacksawed one slot across the end about 1/2" deep, insert into cam expand slot by tapping in a screwdriver, tap other end, the other seal and both bushings came out and were in good (reusable) shape just had to clean up the ends of the bushing a smidge. The whole advance rod assembly is off to a new home tomorrow.

Thanks all. No how-to video on YouTube don't know if it could be repeated????
 
So I want to remove the bushings preferably without destroying them, anyone done it? How?

quick lazy search didn't turn up any how to's.



Some guru should make me a video and post a link here so I can watch it on my phone..........

Gentlemen
this is a weird solution but it worked very well . just now.
I tried with a long brass drift but could not find any edge to hit on
So I went to my new socket set ( toolbox ) and tested 1/4 inch socket for a fit inside the cam.
I found that 1/4 inch and 5/16 was almost the same diameter . As the cam.Inner diameter.
But still no edge inside that would take up the force.
the 1/4 inch socket has a taper / fillet on the outside up to the diameter that is close to the cams inner diameter.
I took a soft steel wire .1.45 mm
Not sure what that is in Inch
And made a circle about a 3/4 circle
and wound it around the socket the smaller end .Inserted it into the cam
Some soft tapping with the hammer - And the steel wire landed in the Recess / Grove inside the
labyrinth seal .. But now sticking out a bit so now the Socket would not fall past the
Wire. Like a circlip
Socket in --and use the brass drift .. And after a couple of taps Out it came
I had it in an upright position standing on another larger socket when i Did it .So it could fall out freely.
The other side ( labyrinth ) did not succeed that well with the taper and socket
So more use with a needle nose pliers.But fairly simple that also.
I have not cleaned them yet but I can not see any damage on Them.
I will use a Boyer ignition so it is good enough for me.

.
 
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