Removing float valve seat on BS34

[Dan50]

Greetings all, newbie question here. I am cleaning and replacing some components on my BS34. It appears that the float valve seat is a "pressure" fit. I've removed one of this type on a different carb before by screwing in a wood type screw and then prying in out. What method do you recommend? When replacing it do you carefully drive it in until it bottoms out? Ive read the 650 carbguide pdf but it doesn't really mention this. I am ordering replacement parts from Mike's. Thanks

 

[fredintoon]

Greetings all, newbie question here. I am cleaning and replacing some components on my BS34. It appears that the float valve seat is a "pressure" fit. I've removed one of this type on a different carb before by screwing in a wood type screw and then prying in out. What method do you recommend? When replacing it do you carefully drive it in until it bottoms out? Ive read the 650 carbguide pdf but it doesn't really mention this. I am ordering replacement parts from Mike's. Thanks

Hi Dan and welcome,
once you've removed the half-circle plate that holds the seat in just grab the seat with pliers and make like a dentist.
If everything's clean & tidy the new seat & o-ring should push in with moderate thumb pressure.
Mike's kit most likely won't have the stock dome-shape mini filter that those carbs left the factory with.
You can carefully salvage the existing filters if they are still there but most folks don't bother.

 

[Dan50]

These two are proving to be a little bugger I'm afraid. Naturally I have the little half circle off on each carb, but so far all the pulling in the world isn't extracting them. I've screwed in an appropriate size wood screw for something to grab, but they still won't come out. I've hit it a bunch of times with PB Blaster, hopefully they'll loosen up by tomorrow.

 

[gggGary]

I made a tool.. Really an inside hole gauge ground to be a snug fit it expands when you tighten a sleeve on the end so it grabs the housing. A bit of rocking and the seat comes out. But short of that;
#1 PB blaster or such,
#2 time
#3 heat heat gun or hair dryer.
#4 the back end of the biggest drill bit that will fit. tap it around a bit then maybe use your wood screw. The brass is not that tight a fit, it's the hardened remains of the o-ring and varnish that's got it stuck.

Heat is the way to remove stuck slides also. A heat gun can be dangerous on slides, it can wreck the diaphragm. Best to stick with a hair dryer, give it some time, it always works.

 

[chizler62]

If you're not reusing seat than yes.....a slide hammer and sheet metal screw is a quick easy way to do it. Just be certain not to run the screw too deep.

 

[Dan50]

I borrowed a friend's slide hammer and with a sheet metal screw turned partially in, those seats popped right out. The o-rings were all dried out and there was a bit of crusty varnish in their too. Seems like an odd place to put screens though, right on the bottom of the seats. It's not like their really serviceable there. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

 

[angus67]

Any screen in a raw steel system is a good screen . Take those screens off, and see if u can fit them to the new seats

 

[Dan50]

Any screen in a raw steel system is a good screen . Take those screens off, and see if u can fit them to the new seats

Thanks Angus I shall do that.

 

[gggGary]

Douse the float valve body with carb cleaner some heat gun time will help soften varnish and the hardened o-ring. Grind a pair of cheap pliers to fit the outside of the body; slip the biggest drill bit that will fit inside the body, this helps prevent deforming the body.

Note the larger hole ground in the jaw lets you "wiggle' the pliers and body while applying upward pressure with the screw driver. They'll pop right out.

Float valve to carb body O-ring size 1.5mm thick x 7.5mm I.D.
A q-tip with some blue magic or other chrome cleaner chucked in your drill will clean up the seat and bore. Be sure the viton needle tip isn't "necked" and that the spring on the other end is free and strong. Weak or sticky springs are common.

 

[xjwmx]

Grind a pair of cheap pliers to fit the outside of the body;

There's Craftsman pliers that already has that feature. 5T has one too.

 

[5twins]

Yes, but I'd have to grind the jaws smooth and I don't really want to do that. I particularly like those pliers for speedo/tach cable removal/install. The smaller notch grabs those knurled cable ends perfectly. Looks like a another trip to HF is in order for some cheapo pliers I can grind away on, lol.

 

[xjwmx]

No remarks about the gloves...that's the only reason I put the pic up

It occurred to me about the grinding -- if you cut a V notch you're guaranteed two points of contact on each side. If you cut a curve (by hand) you'd be lucky to have more than one.