Replacement turn signal (flasher) relay has two prongs, not three

Use a 552. Napa has them for less than 4 bucks. Brown/brown white connections. Note the OEM flasher costs over 130 bucks - it offers the self cancelling option. With the 552 you'll have to remember to turn signal off. Couldn't find a 522 anywhere....good luck.
 
Yup - I did this and it worked like a charm. My '76 had a 3-prong with the black (ground) wire in the centre spot on the connector. I simply moved it - exchanging it with one of the other wires so that the flasher relay was connected only to the Br and Br-W wires and it now works just fine. That allowed me to eliminate the 40 year old electromechanical flasher that took a lot of power to operate and would not work with LED bulbs.
 
Use a 552. Napa has them for less than 4 bucks. Brown/brown white connections. Note the OEM flasher costs over 130 bucks - it offers the self cancelling option. With the 552 you'll have to remember to turn signal off. Couldn't find a 522 anywhere....good luck.

Yup - I did this and it worked like a charm. My '76 had a 3-prong with the black (ground) wire in the centre spot on the connector. I simply moved it - exchanging it with one of the other wires so that the flasher relay was connected only to the Br and Br-W wires and it now works just fine. That allowed me to eliminate the 40 year old electromechanical flasher that took a lot of power to operate and would not work with LED bulbs.

Gentlemen, might this be the correct #552 flasher option? I will be trying to replace my own relay shortly...

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/LIT552/LIT552
 
If you are going with LED signals you might want one that is electronic, not thermal?

Yes - I think that WER is quite correct in this.

I'm not an electronics whiz, but as I understand it, electro-mechanical (i.e. thermal) flashers need a certain minimum level of resistance in the turn signal circuit to function properly. I tried that particular flasher on my bike - with all LED bulbs - but it wouldn't flash because the resistance in the circuit was too low - thus, current draw is not enough to generate the necessary heat to cause sufficient deflection in the little bi-metallic flasher-clicker thingy (see how tech I am??) to enable the flasher to function properly.

So, I replaced the front signal LEDs with incandescent bulbs and left the LED's in the rear and it now works fine. I can even hear the flasher clicking at lower speeds - which is good, because I often forget to turn the darned thing off, which is actually quite dangerous in heavy traffic.

BTW - the reason I would like to go to all LEDs is that they draw less power (easier on the old XS650 charging system) and they last just about forever.

Anyhow, I would like to swap over to all LEDs signal lights - but I haven't yet figured out the correct flasher to use (suggestions welcome!!). I already own the bulbs - I just need the right flasher....

Pete
 
Thats a good piece wer posted. I have one on my chop. Has a nice pace. It doesnt matter wich way you wire it it will work. Mine even works with the bike not running.
 
Thats a good piece wer posted. I have one on my chop. Has a nice pace. It doesnt matter wich way you wire it it will work. Mine even works with the bike not running.

Cool - and for less than $9 bucks each - I might just get one for each of my XS650s (I've got two of them you know - and one of them actually runs!!)

:D;):oops:
 
I went with electronic over thermal just for the sake of good order. It just seemed like a nice update. I don't even have LED flashers, I have regular bulbs, albeit smaller in size and draw than the originals, still bright as hell.

If you are looking for ways to add awareness to the whole "is my blinker on" factor, I highly recommend the diode mod (search on here) and adding a $7 12MM LED from Amazon somewhere. I have one recessed directly into my headlight and the f@#$ker is BRIGHT as hell. Even on a sunny day I do NOT leave my blinker on because I have a tangeringe jumping around on my headlight when it's on.
 
I just put on mini bullet blinkers and I just want to thank you guys for the thread u have posted I replaced the stock flasher with the 552 flasher and I'm very pleased with the results
 
As a Control specialist electrician, who does ALL voltages, Usually guy would have been correct about grounds together, BUT on a 12v system the FLASHERS grounds need to be separate.as they run thru 2 relays and the right left switch, tying together could cause unwanted feed back thru the ground
 
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