Resto-mod Work List: '73 TX Mild Cafe Roadster

TeeCat

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Hi, everyone -

I was thinking recently that it might be useful for me to make a comprehensive list of all the work that I have done - or plan/will have done - to my bike since I got her in August '07. I could certainly keep a working list on my PC, but I thought it might be even more useful if I were to keep it here, not only as a sort of "living documentation" of the evolution of my bike's "resto-mod", but potentially as an aid to others who might want/need ideas, or who may be trying to help me with something but need specific information on how the bike is equipped or what work has heretofore been done. For instance, if I start another thread in the Garage with on a particular issue or question, I may refer potential helpers to this thread, where they can have comprehensive/current data on the bike, as it may be relevant to what we're discussing. Also, it will simply be helpful for me to have all of this information in one place, but also available to others who are interested for whatever reason.

I have a Gallery here, but there may be times when it might be useful to augment this thread with an image, reference document, link to another thread (such as a seal replacement procedure, etc.), but I'd like this to be contributive to the community as well as useful for my purposes.

Since August '07, when I brought my bike home in the back of a pick-up as a non-running, but basically sound, platform for a mild cafe roadster, I have trepidatiously done the work that follows, with unquantifiable guidance from others here and at the former 650rider.com. The list is neither exhaustive nor final; I will be adding to it as I recall items and as work progresses.

Others are welcome to write in this thread.

TC

Aesthetics/Function/Handling

- new tires (Kenda Challenger Sport)
- new clubman bars
- new cafe/solo saddle
- pillion pegs removed
- new reverse cone "shorty" mufflers w/handmade custom fitted aluminum hangers
- new cafe/bobber tail light/tag frame combo (NOTE: Due to damage to rear fender and tail light/tag combo (Feb '12), bobbed existing fender and installed Mike's tail light/tag combo #11-2342.)
- installed bungee knobs (re-purposed swingarm spools) on rear fender/bungee net
- new grips
- new Napoleon trapezoidal bar-end mirrors
- new XS Performance cam-end and alternator covers
- matte polished fork lowers and rear hub
- re-blacked left/right engine case covers
- wrapped exhaust headers
- installed heat resistant covers on plug wires/caps
- replaced all peg/shifter/kick rubbers
- replaced fuel tank rear rubber mount
- black leather tool roll (mounted forward of saddle bumstop) containing CruzTools road kit/incidentals
- ShockSox road bike fork seal dust covers (black)
- painted rear brake stabilizer arm and actuator rod Rustoleum Aluminum
- National Cycle flyscreen
- handmade aluminum gauge visors
- handmade aluminum crank case (top) reflector plate

Electrical

- replaced brake light switch - front
- replaced brake light switch - rear
- replaced brushes
- new PAMCO electronic ignition trigger/dual point coil/wires/caps/iridium plugs (NOTE: Due to unexplained failure of Mike's coil #17-6803 (Jan '12), replaced it with Mike's #17-6822, with less voltage, but smaller and with built-in, rearward-facing wires. Also reverted to stock NGK plugs w/stock gap of .028).
- installed bar-mounted voltage gauge
- new solid state regulator/rectifier
- new sealed AGM battery
- replaced grommets in headlamp bucket
- properly installed (soldered/heatshrunk) poorly installed 20 amp blade-type main fuse
- replaced broken '77 hi-/low-beam, horn, turn signal control switch with new '77 switch
- installed Bike Master short-stalk turn signals w/custom brackets front and rear
- 552 signal flasher relay

Mechanical/Fuel/Lubrication

- new left/right fuel tank petcocks
- replaced crankshaft seal
- replaced output shaft seal
- replaced all cables
- cleaned (multiple times) and synched carbs, set float height
- replaced needle/seat combos in both carbs
- new clear fuel line with in-line conical fuel filters
- replaced Advance Timing Unit, serviced rod
- replaced clutch actuator unit (includes worm gear)
- replaced clutch lever and perch (summer '11)
- new intake manifolds
- replaced phillips screws in carb bowls with allen heads for on-bike bowl-removal
- new XS Performance pod air filters
- replaced stock upper oil filter with billet aluminum XS Performance oil cooler/filter
- replaced sump filter
- designed (using PAMCO Pete's original concept) and installed experimental (Spectre Performance Products) cold air plenums for head temperature reduction
- installed reed breather valve, hose, and filter for creation/maintenance of crankcase vacuum and minimization of oil leaks
- replaced oil plug copper crush washers
- replaced missing cork ring for timing chain dome cover
- added rare earth magnets to outside of fuel tank, just forward of petcocks, to minimize migration of metallic sediment into fuel system
- see front brake rehab (below)
- added RR dipstick oil temperature gauge
- re-torqued cylinder head/replaced notoriously weak OEM rubber coated washers (under four outer acorn nuts) with brass, as well as under inner four. Remainder were replaced with Grade 8 steel washers. (January 2012)
- replaced leaking timing chain adjuster case gasket, removed black paint from case, inspected adjuster mechanism (exhibited little to no wear on idler wheel or plastic traveler) (April 2012)

-------------------------------------
October 2010 - Mikuni VM 36mm RS Single Carb Conversion Project (installation/dial-in):

- Wiseguy Customs 2-into-1 chrome ceramic-coated intake manifold (cafe/tracker configuration)
- air screw currently @1 turn out
- main air correction jet in intake bell: removed
- pilot jet: 25
- main jet: 200
- 159-P8 needle jet/6F9 needle (clip in middle slot)
- left side cover modified to accommodate single carb
- Mike's XS oval pod filter w/ custom aluminum air shroud
- single in-line Purolator F10024 (one-piece, all metal) fuel filter (January 2012; replaces easily damaged plastic conical fuel filters)
- Motion-Pro 1/4" fuel line

August 2011 - Front Brake Rehab:

- New stock-type master cylinder (Mike's XS)
- New upper/lower hoses (Mike's XS)
- Rebuilt original caliper with seal kit from Mike's XS; repainted w/gloss black caliper paint
 
Last edited:
Teecat, I noticed you don't have any dust caps on your forks........your seals will wear fast with the dirt getting in there
 
Well, I had them, but cut them to try installing them without dropping the lowers, and that obviously didn't work. A lot of my problem is that I just don't have another pair of hands to help me with those kinds of things. Don't yet have the confidence to be fooling with that front end unassisted.
 
I did mine by jacking the bike up and looping a couple of tie downs through the handlebars and around a cross beam in my building. Removed the wheel, and slipped the forks out of the triple trees one at a time.
 
Nice clean build. Do you think those round ducts actaully help cool the cylinders? I mean they aare out there in the breeze anyway.
 
650, that's a good idea. I don't have accessible crossbeams in my building, sadly. might just wait til there's another pair of knowledgeable hands around.

Jim... thank you. :) It's not so much a "build" as a frame-on clean-up/refurbish/resto-mod... whatever you like. As to the ducts, I have to get a thermometer, but I'll wager that the cylinder temps are down based on PamcoPete's results with his experiment. The air is funneled right onto the cylinder bell where airflow is the most restricted.

Thanks for looking, guys!
 
Change: This past weekend, I had to go to a velocity stack (adding to work/mods list above) because the ABS plastic runner that supported the 6" air cleaner cracked/broke where I had attached it to the soft plastic retaining collar with button-head machine screws. It may have even aspirated a tiny shred of debris into the pilot circuit; the bike very suddenly stalled at idle and would not run unless choked, after which I noticed that the air intake had cracked. I didn't find anything in the bowl or the circuit, but cleaning the circuit out solved the problem, so I doubt it was coincidence. The breakage was likely due to either the weight of the cold air induction assembly, or the fact that my left leg would occasionally bump it when kicking the bike. It was a good idea aesthetically, and seemed to filter beautifully, but the assembly just sat too far outboard for this particular application, and proved to be obstructive/impractical.

A short velocity stack with a screen and foam disc will hopefully solve the space/location problem, and filter sufficiently. I hope that any difference in air induction will be marginal (or negligible) and can be compensated for by air screw fine tuning. Weather permitting, dial-in completion will be accomplished soon.

Part: 07-421 - Mikuni Air Intake for 36-38mm carbs; Mikuni aluminum body with screen covers

Source
: MFG Supply

TC
 

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