Right Turn Signals Not Working - Ideas?

[jb_supermoto]

Ok, so I bought a nice 7k mile 1979 XS650 Special. It had no turn signals on it when I got it. PO removed them some time ago. I am putting it back completely stock. I put STOCK turn signals back on. Yes they are the correct wattage, and the bulbs are good. The left side comes on and blinks and operates as it should. The right side doesnt come on at all. Front or rear. The lights themselves are good as I tested them by plugging them into the left plugs to test. There is no voltage getting to them as tested by my test light. Has anyone seen this problem before? Bad flasher? Bad switch? I have checked the wiring all through the bike. Didn't find any wires unplugged or corroded. Is the cancelling unit the square box just in front of the flasher unit? I unplugged it and it had no effect. I'm stumped and thought I'd check here before I start replacing things. Any ideas?

 

[retiredgentleman]

Ok, so I bought a nice 7k mile 1979 XS650 Special. It had no turn signals on it when I got it. PO removed them some time ago. I am putting it back completely stock. I put STOCK turn signals back on. Yes they are the correct wattage, and the bulbs are good. The left side comes on and blinks and operates as it should. The right side doesnt come on at all. Front or rear. The lights themselves are good as I tested them by plugging them into the left plugs to test. There is no voltage getting to them as tested by my test light. Has anyone seen this problem before? Bad flasher? Bad switch? I have checked the wiring all through the bike. Didn't find any wires unplugged or corroded. Is the cancelling unit the square box just in front of the flasher unit? I unplugged it and it had no effect. I'm stumped and thought I'd check here before I start replacing things. Any ideas?

Since the left side flashes, that means the flasher unit itself is working. If the right side is not getting any voltage, then your problem is inside the turn signal switch.

 

[Austblue]

Or between the switch and where the wire feed splits or perhaps you've forgotten to earth both of them?

 

[weekendrider]

Where those little wires are soldered to the switch(in the housing like RG said) are prone to coming apart. Especally if you try to just pull the housing off the end of the bars. But be careful it is possible to get it so hot trying to resolder you can melt the plastic and the little button comes out.... then you get a chance to really cobble it up.

 

[jb_supermoto]

Thanks guys. I was looking too hard for something and overlooked the obvious simple stuff. It was a wire on the switch. Cold solder joint popped loose.

 

[_XSesive_]

I must say I spent several hours trying to get my signals to work, tracing wiring, checking bulbs, making sure everything was grounded and generally pulling my hair out. Until I came across this little thread and low and behold I just swapped out my handle bars and sure enough I gave a little tug on the on the switch box to get it off the old bar and popped off the two soldered connections on the signal switch , two minutes with the soldering iron and I was good to go. ( by the way, if this happens to you, use a little dab of flux on the connections before you try to solder them it will make the solder flow and stick to the contact area much more rapidly and you wont over-heat the plastic) Thanks guys for your post you just saved me from buying a new flasher relay that Yamaha wants 55$ for.

 

[jayel]

the turn signal circuit is really very simple, starting at the battery electricty goes to the key switch on the RED then on the BROWN to the fuse box, from there to the flasher, then on the BROWN/WHITE to the selector switch which send it to right or left side where after lighting the bulbs it ground back to the battery

 

[retiredgentleman]

I must say I spent several hours trying to get my signals to work, tracing wiring, checking bulbs, making sure everything was grounded and generally pulling my hair out. Until I came across this little thread and low and behold I just swapped out my handle bars and sure enough I gave a little tug on the on the switch box to get it off the old bar and popped off the two soldered connections on the signal switch , two minutes with the soldering iron and I was good to go. ( by the way, if this happens to you, use a little dab of flux on the connections before you try to solder them it will make the solder flow and stick to the contact area much more rapidly and you wont over-heat the plastic) Thanks guys for your post you just saved me from buying a new flasher relay that Yamaha wants 55$ for.

You need to shop around a little more. Universal flasher relays can be bought for under $10.00.

 

[_XSesive_]

yeah I did see one for 9.00$ on Mikes, but it is the two prong type, only place I could find the oem three prong type that works with the auto cancellation unit was from Yamaha

 

[StreetTraxx]

Here's why this forum can be your friend! Working on a 1980 650G, replaced the flasher with a 2 pin #552 as described, got the right side blinker working OK, no joy on the left. Searched for and found this thread, and thought about it, it HAS to be the switch! Sure enough, opened up the housing, and the solder joint had failed on the chocolate (left) wire. Soldered it up (important to use flux to get the solder to stick), all good now!! Thanks to retiredgentleman, weekendrider, XSesive, and other posters for saving me a lot of time! Ya nailed it!!
StreetTraxx

 

[fredintoon]

Here's why this forum can be your friend! Working on a 1980 650G, replaced the flasher with a 2 pin #552 as described, got the right side blinker working OK, no joy on the left. Searched for and found this thread, and thought about it, it HAS to be the switch! Sure enough, opened up the housing, and the solder joint had failed on the chocolate (left) wire. Soldered it up (important to use flux to get the solder to stick), all good now!! Thanks to retiredgentleman, weekendrider, XSesive, and other posters for saving me a lot of time! Ya nailed it!!
StreetTraxx

Hi StreetTraxx and welcome,
FWIW tho XS650's stock flasher is the ONLY one that'll work with the self-cancelling unit.
OTOH the stock flasher does have a problem apart from it's appallingly high replacement cost.
It's load-sensitive. More Watts than stock and it flashes faster.; Less Watts than stock, it comes on and stays on.
An electronic automotive flasher cadences at the same legal rate regardless of load if you use incandescent bulbs.
LED flashers need an LED-compatable flasher unit.
Use a 2-pin flasher unit. It'll plug into the bike's stock 3-pin socket two ways. One way works, t'other doesn't.
Yes you've lost the self-cancelling feature so remember to turn the signal off again lest you be mistaken for a Harley rider..

 

[gggGary]

The varying flashing rate is a benefit. It lets you know you have a problem somewhere.

 

[member28833]

Can somebody please explain why these XS's seem to flash the left side stronger than the right side with the engine off? Battery "good enough" but weak in all cases maybe? I've noticed this symptom on 2 78 & a 79 now series XS. Left will flash, Right will barely flash or not. Surely this isn't a coincidence to happen on 3 different bikes?
Thanks, -R
Edit- stock signals, bulbs, and flasher.

 

[gggGary]

Sitting on the side stand the electrons settle into the LH bulbs so that side has an advantage.

 

[member28833]

... I always use the centerstand.. Can't understand why some guys do not. Thats a whole nutter mystery.

 

[5twins]

Indeed it is. I always centerstand my bikes when parked long term. I only use the sidestand for short term parking. I really like both stands on my later model 650s. I like the designs and feel they work very well with a few tweaks. In fact, I'll go so far as to say I feel they're the best operating stands I've ever had on any bike. I like the wide tube pivot on the centerstand which works very well if kept greased. I also like the large post pivot on the later sidestand. It works great too, again, if kept greased.