RonXS' Build Thread - The Soft Cafe

RonXS

XS650 Addict
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Recently Joined up and figured I'd get right into the documentation of my XS650 journey...

As stated in my intro, I've recently received a free '79 XS650. All I know is PO said that the bike was running on only one cylinder and the bike was resisting his effors to repair it and had started to part-out it out.

This is what I'm starting with:
MFrALFP.jpg

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My plan is to create something like this, but with a Superbike bars, RD400 tank, black frame, fenders and XS Mag wheels. Color scheme will be black with silver and a little chrome. At this point, I'm not sure If I will be deleting the passenger accommodations and make it a 'monoposto'.


I'm thinking I'll start with trying to get the engine started and assess the condition of the motor. I've also started a 'to do' list of things to repair. And list 'to buy'.
 
Nice set of bones you got there to start with. Great you have a goal to work towards. I do think before I went any further is I would take a dry/wet compression test. Also take off the valve adjuster covers and see if anything seems amiss. Wouldn't hurt to drop the sump cover and check for rubber bits from the front cam chain guide. As you said it was running one one cylinder. Be nice to know that the reason wasn't mechanical.
Good lucks. Keep us posted.
 
That's the plan! That and fix the wiring mess under the seat - the stock fuse block is gone!

It's full of oil and not dirty. Just need to put the carbs together and on. The bike came with MikesXS flat slide carbs. Though one carb was apart and the entire float assembly awol. I'll sorce those from MikesXS. along with fork seals and maybe electronic ignition. Not interested in going PMA.

Speaking of electronic ignition... My thinking is - go with MikesXS basic kit as it comes with pickup and coils. If the original problem was electrical, the kit would replace parts (points & coil) with known good ones.

Maybe you've heard... 'Carburetor is french for ignition problem' :)
 
I'll source those from MikesXS. along with fork seals
Just a heads up.... Mikes is notorious for crappy rubber bits. I remember reading here a guy used 'em on his forks and had to replace 'em a year or two later. Look for All Balls seals for the forks..... here.

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I've had the fork seals from Mike's in my bike for years, no issues. The rubber parts from Mike's that are a problem are the repop "covers" like footpeg rubbers, kick and shifter rubbers, fork gaiters, etc. Oh, the rubber covers for the side cover hangers are junk too, so's their battery strap. Their oil seals seem to be good, from aftermarket suppliers, but do shop around because the prices are very high on many things. Mike's had good and reasonable deals like 10 years ago but not no more. They're money-hungry now, lol. ASK ABOUT ANYTHING YOU EVEN SLIGHTLY CONSIDER BUYING FROM THEM. Chances are very, very good there's a better and cheaper alternative.
 
Oh, those carbs are probably junk too, if they're the ones I'm thinking of. Keihen PWK knock-off from China. Very poor build quality which often gives sticking slide and hanging float problems.
 
Decided to do this...
I do think before I went any further is I would take a dry/wet compression test.

Figured I'd start with the messed up wiring so 1) I could check that the starter works. 2) Make it easy to do a compression test. 3) Tackle the messed up fuse wiring.

Well managed to get the a tail lamp and neutral lamp to light. And the starter solenoid to 'click' but not turning over. Ran out of time. Will work on it more tomorrow.
 
That's a start. Yes, the tail light comes on with the key. It's wired directly to the ignition switch. The headlight is powered through a safety relay so won't come on until the motor starts, or at least gets cranked over enough to start generating power from the alternator.

The solenoid just clicking could be as simple as a low battery but could indicate the starter motor is stuck or frozen. You could put power directly to the starter motor to test it. You could momentarily short between the 2 large cable connections on the solenoid (power in from the battery and power out to the starter) with a large screwdriver.

Here's how the fuses are wired up. The main fuse is on the line from the battery to the ignition switch. Switched power from the ignition switch then runs back to power all the other fuses. In other words, don't wire all the fuses directly off the battery .....

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Yes, the tail light comes on with the key. It's wired directly to the ignition switch. The headlight is powered through a safety relay so won't come on until the motor starts, or at least gets cranked over enough to start generating power from the alternator.
Thanks, good info.

The solenoid just clicking could be as simple as a low battery but could indicate the starter motor is stuck or frozen. You could put power directly to the starter motor to test it. You could momentarily short between the 2 large cable connections on the solenoid (power in from the battery and power out to the starter) with a large screwdriver.
Just like the wife's old Ford Mustang :)

Here's how the fuses are wired up. The main fuse is on the line from the battery to the ignition switch. Switched power from the ignition switch then runs back to power all the other fuses. In other words, don't wire all the fuses directly off the battery .....
Thanks that's much clearer than the entire XS650SF wiring diagram. Funny thing... I copied that image last night while researching fuse box wiring. :) Thanks again!

I've been spraying everything with contact switches, that I could access, with Deoxit D5 contact cleaner. I've used it to repair many car and stereo electrical issues... great stuff. Lists for $20 but today's prices are $13 from Parts Express or $15 on Amazon.
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Did you pull the starter and clean that connection under there yet? Can't have any high expectations of a reliable or even working starter until that is addressed first.
 
Did you pull the starter and clean that connection under there yet? Can't have any high expectations of a reliable or even working starter until that is addressed first.

I found the hot wire to the starter disconnected . Hooked it up, pressed the button and it clicked quickly then something popped. Maybe fusible link? I'm searching now.

Starter appears to be toast. Appears to have been a problem for the PO as well. I'll need to investigate this more.
 
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