Rotor Winding Tooling

I have a collection of Pendelton wool shirts in plaid, that are my main winter wear. Tend to make you look more like a farmer than a small town gentleman on holiday though.
Worked long and hard getting a wonderful pendleton collection in large tall. Certain household members. slowly but methodically shrunk them all into uselessness.:doh:
 
Worked long and hard getting a wonderful pendleton collection in large tall. Certain household members. slowly but methodically shrunk them all into uselessness.:doh:

Are you sure the real problem is the shirts shrinking? Just saying as I have a few pair of jeans that fit just right before I retired that for some unknown reason do not fit like they did before I retired, just saying!
 
Are you sure the real problem is the shirts shrinking? Just saying as I have a few pair of jeans that fit just right before I retired that for some unknown reason do not fit like they did before I retired, just saying!
Oh yeah I get that but at least 8 great pendletons bit the dust in the dryer, before their time, damn it. I had gone from medium tall to large tall but that's not enough to counter a hot dryer's power of shrinkage.
 
More Tooling
Finished up the tooling for checking runout and static balance. Mounted 3 different rotors (and rotated those 180° on the taper). Amazingly, all 3 ran true within one and a half thou. Now I just gotta make a knife edge balance fixture and I'm in business.

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Out of curiosity (and please forgive if this is a stupid question), when re-winding these rotors, do you have to worry about dynamic balance and adding or subtracting weight as needed, or is it a non-issue once pressed together and epoxied up?
 
Out of curiosity (and please forgive if this is a stupid question), when re-winding these rotors, do you have to worry about dynamic balance and adding or subtracting weight as needed, or is it a non-issue once pressed together and epoxied up?

I'll probably be too late in this reply but if you see the mention of the "dual knife edge fixture", that is the tooling that will be used to check the balance.

To get an idea check out this tool for motorcycle wheels:
http://www.marcparnes.com/Universal_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

The knife edge fixture will replace the two bearings on either end of the wheel balancer. Just need to be sure they are nice and level and parallel with each other.

Could not find a picture showing one for armatures but here is one being sold to do an old Triumph crank. Should at least give a good idea of what is being talked about!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-650-750-Z-138-balance-weights-and-fixture-set-/152786770558
 
I'll probably be too late in this reply but if you see the mention of the "dual knife edge fixture", that is the tooling that will be used to check the balance.

To get an idea check out this tool for motorcycle wheels:
http://www.marcparnes.com/Universal_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

The knife edge fixture will replace the two bearings on either end of the wheel balancer. Just need to be sure they are nice and level and parallel with each other.

Could not find a picture showing one for armatures but here is one being sold to do an old Triumph crank. Should at least give a good idea of what is being talked about!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-650-750-Z-138-balance-weights-and-fixture-set-/152786770558

Thanks for that explanation....it is starting to make sense now.
 
A pic of my spin fixture, for ideas/inspiration.
SpinFixture.jpg

The discs need to have precisely concentric holes and circumference. These are 2.5" diameter. Maybe a lathe project with solid bar stock. Knife-edge the discs before cutoff. The holes are sized to accept press-in low-friction ball bearings. I made those from large fender washers. Drilled their holes first, then stacked them on a snug arbor, machined the ODs simultaneously...
 
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I like to see wood used for fixtures and tools since my wood working tools far outnumber my metal working tools, and my scrap wood pile is much larger than my scrap metal pile. 2M's tool there can be quickly converted to shorter and longer parts by changing the wood.:popcorn:

Scott
 
Absolutely, Scott. When ultimate strength and wood swelling isn't an issue, the broad/milled sides and rapid prototyping with good wood is hard to beat.

That particular spin fixture is used to check optical centering of erector tubes and crosshairs in rifle scopes. No loads at all, just needs to spin true...
 
I am curious as to how a rewound rotor will be checked for either "static" balancing, which I relate to as a simple check on a front wheel slowly finding it's own heavy side.
Or "dynamic" balancing which I relate to as a spinning wheel in my mind .
I'm watching all of this too
-RT :cheers:
 
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I am curious as to how a rewound rotor will be checked for either "static" balancing, which I relate to as a simple check on a front wheel slowly finding it's own heavy side.
Or "dynamic" balancing which I relate to as a spinning wheel in my mind .
I'm watching all of this too
-RT :cheers:
Right you are Randy. Our 360° twins will never be smooth. So I see no point in dynamic balancing (which would be rather spendy :().... static balance will be more than good enough for this application. Here's an example of a knife edge balancing fixture. Gonna style mine after this one 'cause I like that you can replace the edges...

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