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Seat latch on a folding seat pictures request
- Thread starter keeger1957
- Start date
Would that be the same on a 1978 Special? If so I could remove the one from mine and take a picture or two.
keeger1957
XS650 Enthusiast
Yes, it would be the same. The same seat/helmet lock was used on all the '74-'79 models. Yours may not turn because the key isn't a match. There should be a 4 number "code" stamped on the face of the lock .....
See if it matches the number stamped on the ignition switch and gas cap. It probably won't match the gas cap since the tank was swapped and Special gas caps are different that Standard ones (slightly different size). There would be a number on the key as well if it's an original. But, that may or may not match up depending on whether the key was an original cut one that came with the bike or a Yamaha blank that was bought and cut afterwards. The blanks are numbered 1211-1222.
See if it matches the number stamped on the ignition switch and gas cap. It probably won't match the gas cap since the tank was swapped and Special gas caps are different that Standard ones (slightly different size). There would be a number on the key as well if it's an original. But, that may or may not match up depending on whether the key was an original cut one that came with the bike or a Yamaha blank that was bought and cut afterwards. The blanks are numbered 1211-1222.
keeger1957
XS650 Enthusiast
No the key worked fine until someone slammed a screwdriver in it lol. Im just trying to put it back together so its in the lock position to hold my seat down. I need pictures looking down into the housing.
Thanks!
Thanks!
It's pretty simple, the spring fits into the little notch on the end of that part that's out. The bigger notch on the side fits down into the housing over the two little nubs sticking out the back of the lock cylinder. There's a cover plate that fits over it once it's in place. You may be missing that?
keeger1957
XS650 Enthusiast
My key goes in and is number matched. It worked before it was stolen and someone jammed a screwdriver in it. I need to see inside the housing to try to put it back together so my seat will stay latched down. Or does anyone know where I can get a new one of these?
keeger1957
XS650 Enthusiast
I think I am missing piece as well must have fallen out when all the other stuff did its gotta be on the ground next to my bike
You can't get these new anymore, you'll have to scrounge a used one. I have one from an XS500 on my '78. The original was missing when I got the bike. Let me just mention that the mounting screws are something that always seem to come loose on this bike. Maybe that's why my original lock went missing. My buddy already lost two off his, lol.
Just got a "screwdrivered" one back together. If you can get the lock cylinder rotated, the last "tumbler" can be pushed in, releasing the lock cylinder from the housing. I used a thin metal strip to rake the tumblers til the cylinder turned. Then I just got rid of all the tumblers and springs, carefully flattened the beat up stainless cover on the end of the cylinder and reassembled, now it works with the (any) key. There are two thin sheet metal pieces, one holds the back end of that spring, the second covers everything.
Arrow points to the tumbler that needs to be pressed in to release the lock cylinder, everything else should be pretty clear.
Yes, I forgot about that little angle piece that the end of the spring fits into. There's also an angled sheet metal "liner" that fits down into the hole the seat latch hook goes into. It's quite dirty in Gary's last pic, but you can see it in there. As he said, to get the lock cylinder out, you'll need to slide that retainer plate down flush with the lock cylinder. Since the assembly is off the bike, you may be able to go in from the top instead of through the key slot. But even going through the key slot will be easier with the assembly off because you can watch the lock plate and see when you've slid it in enough. Going through the key slot is how I do it when "liberating" old locks off bikes I don't have a key for. With the seat locked closed, I can't access the lock assembly mounting screws. Depending on the lock assembly style, sometimes the helmet lock loop blocks mounting screw removal as well. Using a tip from Gary, the lock "picking" tools I use are made from the stainless steel strips found in old windshield wiper blades. The third one up with the little bump on the end works well for the lock plate .....
And if you want to try and fix your lock, it's going to have to come out. The "tumblers" in these are actually little spring-loaded brass plates with rectangular cut-outs in them called wafers. The key slides in through the cut-out and the width of the bottom edge determines what key notch it properly fits in .....
With no key inserted, all the wafers are pushed out one side by their little springs, the same side the lock plate sticks out of. This "locks" the lock and it can't be rotated. Insert the proper cut key and all the wafers are slid down flush with the lock cylinder. The lock is "unlocked" and can be turned .....
Insert a key that fits but has the wrong cuts on it and some of the wafers may be pulled flush, but most will either not be slid enough or slid too far so they're sticking out the other side .....
By jamming a screwdriver into yours, I think they bent some of the edges over on the wafers instead of sliding them out of the way. You may be able to remove them and flatten them back out again.
When I disassemble one of these locks, I make a little drawing and take some notes. I number the wafer slots from the top down, top being next to where the key inserts. Then I pull the wafers out, starting with #1, measure and record their sizes .....
And if you want to try and fix your lock, it's going to have to come out. The "tumblers" in these are actually little spring-loaded brass plates with rectangular cut-outs in them called wafers. The key slides in through the cut-out and the width of the bottom edge determines what key notch it properly fits in .....
With no key inserted, all the wafers are pushed out one side by their little springs, the same side the lock plate sticks out of. This "locks" the lock and it can't be rotated. Insert the proper cut key and all the wafers are slid down flush with the lock cylinder. The lock is "unlocked" and can be turned .....
Insert a key that fits but has the wrong cuts on it and some of the wafers may be pulled flush, but most will either not be slid enough or slid too far so they're sticking out the other side .....
By jamming a screwdriver into yours, I think they bent some of the edges over on the wafers instead of sliding them out of the way. You may be able to remove them and flatten them back out again.
When I disassemble one of these locks, I make a little drawing and take some notes. I number the wafer slots from the top down, top being next to where the key inserts. Then I pull the wafers out, starting with #1, measure and record their sizes .....
