Shell cam and MIKEs XS BB kit project

wolds

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Thought I'd post a few pictures of data gathered while installing Shell cam and BB kit. No drama with either and Shell advertised spec very close to measured values. Hoo's Racing recommends running the cam at .006" on intake and .008" on exhaust. Any thoughts on that?
 

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Good post, wolds. What valve lash did you have while getting your data?

If you really want to get into it, determining valve lash is done by finding the sweet spot in the cam's entrance ramp. You'd need to set lash to zero, or just slightly tight so you can track the precise cam lift profile during the first 30°-45° or so.
EntranceRamps.jpg


You'll need to get the lift values for each degree of rotation.

Next, you'll need to produce the 1st order derivative values.
This will simply be the lift delta (difference) for each degree of rotation. This 1st derivative will be the valve's velocity.

From that data, produce the next 2nd order derivative values.
Again, that will be the velocity deltas (differences) for each degree of rotation. This 2nd derivative will be the valve's acceleration.

You'll end up with a chart like this:
CamProfileDerivatives.jpg


Ideally, you want all lash taken up and valve movement commencing at the precise point that velocity and acceleration begin their rise (about at -68° in the above chart). Whatever the lift value is at that point is the target lash (looks like about 0.009" on that chart). See if your findings match that of the cam grinder's and other's recommendations.

If the lash is set looser than that, there's the risk of excessive valve train hammering.
If the lash is set tighter than that, you'll have a valve setting off the seat, leaking, and not providing any benefits (engine breathing-wise).

For more info, Google: "camshaft entrance ramps".
Then, read those entries that discuss the issue "No cam card", for those who are trying to set up valve lash on undocumented cams...
 
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Wolds, you're right on the money for exhaust opening, and very close to 100* on the lobe centers. Shell's timing numbers (taken at 0 valve lash) assume operating valve lash settings of .006" intake and .012" exhaust, the same as Yamaha's recommendations for the 256 cam. Gary Hoos is right, you can close up the lash on the exhaust side without ill effects, but your exhaust LC is already advanced 1.5*. That's pretty close, but closing the clearance to .008" will advance the exhaust timing more, and in seat-of-the-pants experience with the Shell #1, advancing the exhaust timing too far led to a lot of short shifting. You have a known safe range of settings from .008" to .012", so try on a few and see what fits best for you!
 
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I've got the first 100 miles on the top end kit ( two 50 mile rides) and have to say I'm very pleased with the results. As others have suggested I have re-torqued the head with each heat cycle (now two) and found very little creep with the second check. I'll probably do it one more time and than ride it for 500 or so miles and check one final time. Pleased that the top end is "leak free" and that the breather catch can I fabricated shows no sign of blow-by. Plugs also look like they're running in normal color range. Minimal change in vibration with noticeable power gain.
 
Checked head torque one last time (this makes three) and this time fasteners were to spec so I installed the top engine mount and I'm good to go. I would recommend this mod (Mike's 750 kit and Shell cam) to anyone looking for some more power. Not a difficult project at all as long as you are detail minded and take pictures. My plan is to ride the bike over the summer and then take it back down to the frame over the winter for a complete paint job. Hopefully next Spring the project will finally be complete.
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Where did you find that fairing? Is it an Airtech Ducati? Sweet lookin ride there. Thanks for posting.
 
So work continues on my XS. I have the bodywork off for paint ( Gulf Racing Livery) so I'm adding swingarm brace and attending to chassis paint, wiring and other lingering details while I wait for body work to come back. Initial fit of the brace isn't to far off. Attached pictures are as it came to me before fitting. I'll post some more pictures once I get the welding done.
 

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put a swing arm brace on mine and found great BUT tried a fork brace as well and with the 2 found handling over stiff with very little feed back , would be good on long h/ways /strieght rds but as I'm in the mountains with lots of cornors, found over stiff and it took all the fun out of it , removed the f/brace and the xs came alive again... if doing a long distance h/way trip will put the f/brace back on
 
put a swing arm brace on mine and found great BUT tried a fork brace as well and with the 2 found handling over stiff with very little feed back , would be good on long h/ways /strieght rds but as I'm in the mountains with lots of cornors, found over stiff and it took all the fun out of it , removed the f/brace and the xs came alive again... if doing a long distance h/way trip will put the f/brace back on

I guess we'll see what happens. The fork brace has been on the bike since 1980. When the bike was new I made all the the Minton frame/suspension mods with good success. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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So here’s the latest pictures of my project. Painter said I’d be able to pick up my bodywork tomorrow.
 

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Wolds, I'm thinking this is going to be one 'bitchin ride' (sorry Kindig it)
 
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