So git 'er Done

Thanks @MaxPete , @grizld1 and @5twins

How do people ever get the time to customise? I've already done a few jobs and my list of potential improvements. fixes and "to dos" keeps growing.

This forum is great because whether you're just tidying up your wiring or doing a full engine re-build, there's someone there to encourage and advise. No-one ever belittles the "least" or over inflates the most knowledgeable.

Thanks guys.

Dave O'Toole
 
Your already down the track but this may help you out a bit, although your bike set up, (exhaust and filter), is different.
post #63, #80
http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-xs650-project-deep-south-xs.14294/page-4

Post #88
http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-xs650-project-deep-south-xs.14294/page-5

Just a heads up.....being an English B the forks, Guard stays and brake rotor are different to the US and some other countries, except Europe. Because the brake rotor is a smaller diameter the caliper mounts are lower on the forks making the guard braces longer due to their mounts being lower on the forks as well........

This would only have an impact if some of these components needed to be resourced. They will be a hard to get item if buying locally. If buying from the states then be aware of the differences. Not the rotor as it was a twin you have the other one.
US B
74 a -b.jpg
 
@650Skull thats just exactly what I need. For a start...

“The choke on the EX500 carbs is a cable actuated choke so I had to come up with a creative solution using a little bit of ingenuity.”

Is exactly what I was looking for. I knew I’d read a post about someone who had created a “stop”. I had read and reread the long ex500 post and couldn’t find it.

I was just looking at it today and it seemed like any cable choke I fix up will go right through the throttle cable. I was going to take the whole lot off again to get a better look at the choke mechanisms.

This gives me another option to consider.

Will give them both a good read. Thanks.

Dave
 
DaveO said:
I was just looking at it today and it seemed like any cable choke I fix up will go right through the throttle cable. I was going to take the whole lot off again to get a better look at the choke mechanisms.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input @650Skull. Sorry anbout the delay in replying but its taken me a while to get back to my PC and I couldn't see post numbers on my phone. The one you mention above as post #235 shows a good picture of the choke mechanism, as fitted.

I had it in my mind that the cable would have to go right through the throttle cable. But this shows that the choke cable is slightly curved and there's no problem. I may still take them off again for a better look see and see if theres any wiggle room (hey, they've been on and off a few times now. ) but pretty sure this resolves it for me.

20140302_100559 (2).jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20140302_100559.jpg
    20140302_100559.jpg
    156.6 KB · Views: 153
I'm past the throttle cable problems now. I made up new ones using parts from Venhills in the UK. I measured very carefully but quickly found that my real skills lay in "re-doing the work" and "suck it and see". :laugh:

Still, I now have a supply of solder, flux, cable outer and much better confidence in soldering. (Something I'd always manage to screw up in the past.)

If I get a chance I'll post the finished measurements, parts used, supplier and prices. It may just help someone along the way.
 
gggGary said:
3 1/2 years later the glue is holding?
Click to expand...

Hi playmates,

Bet you've wondered where I've been, (Maybe not.) Well actually I've been doing work on the bike but not a lot at a time, and not posting.

I've been for my first ride along the lane. And Gary, I can relate... No... dammit.

Gary's question relates to the repair I did to my tachometer. It does nothing and then when it is revved the needle whizzes around the dial face. It DID work for a while. At least for the few start ups I've done. But obviously hasn't held up at all. Maybe with my new found soldering skills I can solder the part and not use a fillet of superglue. I'll have it apart and see what's going on. Later.

Where I'm at:

Everything is done and the electrics, lights and indicators all now work.​
  • I need to test the charging but I didn't have faults before (LOL, ran when parked.)​
  • Clearly the ignition all works still.​
  • I've knocked up a choke (kept photos so Ill post them later.) Not a great bit of work. The BMC Mini choke cable was a pile of **** and I don't like the bracket I've bodged. It works though.​
  • Adjusted the clutch after a bit of enthusiastic rocking back and forth to free the plates. Top tip - make sure you've screwed the side case down properly all those months ago before you try adjusting and wonder "what the Hell is going on?". Oh, you do that, do you? I didn't.​
  • Wires for neutral light were discovered hanging but that works now. Wonder of wonders. New clutch cable and it is a piece of cake to pull in and.... I can select neutral. I've NEVER been able to do that. Slick as butter. It will probably start slipping later.​
  • The electric start sounds like a bag of spanners. It always did. But I'm pleased all those years ago I didn't waste my money on new bendixes ect. Now I know how to fix it. But it starts easy enough on the kickstart.​
  • Front brake all assembled and bled. The bleeding was done by the local bike shop. I've bled brakes before but never without either a. taking a week. b. getting fluid on the paintwork. c. getting fluid in my eye. After several weeks of putting it off I thought "Oh, sod it. I did everything else myself."​
After my little test ride I noticed a slight weep of oil on the left hand side which might be coming from the base gasket region. The bike had been running for about 20 minutes by this time. There was also smoke oily smoke coming from the front near the right hand exhaust pipe. So I'm think the head nuts need torqueing down. There was slight tendency to hanging idle which wasn't the case before. Head nuts have never been touched to my knowledge. All thoughts welcome. Noticed a small pimple of oil on one of the dome nuts under the engine.

But I've burned my elbow on the exhaust. So that's it for today. Next address some of those points and then a short trip down the sea-front. A couple of miles and If I don't have to push it back from there trip to my mates house. About 10 miles.
​
There's a good 6-8 weeks of good weather left I hope. So I'm a biker again.

:cool:

:):):)
 
DaveO said:
Hi playmates,

Bet you've wondered where I've been, (Maybe not.) Well actually I've been doing work on the bike but not a lot at a time, and not posting.

I've been for my first ride along the lane. And Gary, I can relate... No... dammit.

Gary's question relates to the repair I did to my tachometer. It does nothing and then when it is revved the needle whizzes around the dial face. It DID work for a while. At least for the few start ups I've done. But obviously hasn't held up at all. Maybe with my new found soldering skills I can solder the part and not use a fillet of superglue. I'll have it apart and see what's going on. Later.

Where I'm at:

Everything is done and the electrics, lights and indicators all now work.​
  • I need to test the charging but I didn't have faults before (LOL, ran when parked.)​
  • Clearly the ignition all works still.​
  • I've knocked up a choke (kept photos so Ill post them later.) Not a great bit of work. The BMC Mini choke cable was a pile of **** and I don't like the bracket I've bodged. It works though.​
  • Adjusted the clutch after a bit of enthusiastic rocking back and forth to free the plates. Top tip - make sure you've screwed the side case down properly all those months ago before you try adjusting and wonder "what the Hell is going on?". Oh, you do that, do you? I didn't.​
  • Wires for neutral light were discovered hanging but that works now. Wonder of wonders. New clutch cable and it is a piece of cake to pull in and.... I can select neutral. I've NEVER been able to do that. Slick as butter. It will probably start slipping later.​
  • The electric start sounds like a bag of spanners. It always did. But I'm pleased all those years ago I didn't waste my money on new bendixes ect. Now I know how to fix it. But it starts easy enough on the kickstart.​
  • Front brake all assembled and bled. The bleeding was done by the local bike shop. I've bled brakes before but never without either a. taking a week. b. getting fluid on the paintwork. c. getting fluid in my eye. After several weeks of putting it off I thought "Oh, sod it. I did everything else myself."​
After my little test ride I noticed a slight weep of oil on the left hand side which might be coming from the base gasket region. The bike had been running for about 20 minutes by this time. There was also smoke oily smoke coming from the front near the right hand exhaust pipe. So I'm think the head nuts need torqueing down. There was slight tendency to hanging idle which wasn't the case before. Head nuts have never been touched to my knowledge. All thoughts welcome. Noticed a small pimple of oil on one of the dome nuts under the engine.

But I've burned my elbow on the exhaust. So that's it for today. Next address some of those points and then a short trip down the sea-front. A couple of miles and If I don't have to push it back from there trip to my mates house. About 10 miles.
​
There's a good 6-8 weeks of good weather left I hope. So I'm a biker again.

:cool:

:):):)
Click to expand...

Atta boy Dave - and yes, I have been wondering!

Cheers,

Pete
 
I've asked around and no-one I know has a torque wrench … not a small one anyway.

The last time I looked a cheap torque wrench was a horrible looking chrome bar and a needle and scale. But looking on eBay they have ones that start from £25 quid or so and they look OK. (Tested before despatch to +/- 3% ).

What do you lot think? I can have one by Friday.

Any UK members with links or experience?

Dave
 
DaveO said:
I've asked around and no-one I know has a torque wrench … not a small one anyway.

The last time I looked a cheap torque wrench was a horrible looking chrome bar and a needle and scale. But looking on eBay they have ones that start from £25 quid or so and they look OK. (Tested before despatch to +/- 3% ).

What do you lot think? I can have one by Friday.

Any UK members with links or experience?

Dave
Click to expand...

Some come up on Facebook marketplace Dave, I almost bought one last week
 
DaveO said:
I've asked around and no-one I know has a torque wrench … not a small one anyway.

The last time I looked a cheap torque wrench was a horrible looking chrome bar and a needle and scale. But looking on eBay they have ones that start from £25 quid or so and they look OK. (Tested before despatch to +/- 3% ).

What do you lot think? I can have one by Friday.

Any UK members with links or experience?

Dave
Click to expand...

There is nothing whatsoever wrong with the beam deflection (needle & scale) type torque wrench Dave. Please forgive me if you know this but bear with a brief refresher on torque:

Torque is defined as a force at a distance. T = F x D ....and the deflection of the main beam varies directly (i.e. is linear) with the force causing it to bend - so the deflection of the fixed needle on that little scale is an excellent way to measure the torque being applied by your arm on the handle of the wrench.
339F652E-7E1E-45F7-97EB-9E67B7C8FB52.jpeg


Now, there are a few cautions with that type of wrench (see the photos below for reference):

1) Make sure that the handle is free to pivot when you apply torque.

The distance - from the pivot point on the handle (where the pen is pointing) to the centreline of the socket drive square - is a core part of the calibration of the torque wrench (in fact it is “D” in the little formula above).

If you do not have the pivot in the handle free to move, you are not using the correct value of “D” and so you will NOT get an accurate reading of the applied torque on the needle scale (see the second photo below).

So, the handle must be in the centre of its pivot range - like this:
F036AE07-CD3F-4397-AE6C-4FACF3B69EB5.jpeg


NOT like this:
B92B9C10-258B-42E4-B1B5-D0F8A984D2CF.jpeg


2) Do not touch the “needle” when applying torque (or really at any time). It must remain straight to give a proper reading.

NO - don’t do this!
AB7CB4DD-7664-4578-9970-0C9E10298227.jpeg


When using the wrench, hold one hand on the top of the drive square end of the main beam (the LEFT end in the first photo) to ensure that the socket doesn’t slip off the bolt or nut being tightened - and your other hand on the pivoting handle while making sure that the handle is in the middle of its pivot range.

If you can keep track of all that, you’ll be fine with a beam & scale torque wrench.

Here endeth the lesson.

Pete
 
Last edited:
Just had another thought Dave: the one key DISadvantage of a beam-type torque wrench is that there is (normally) no ratchet function and so you only get a few degrees of “swing” before you’ll need to reset the socket on the fastener.

That makes them a bit slower to use....but who’s in a hurry when you are having fun working on your hobby bike?

....and you are certainly most welcome.

3DCD12D0-D0B4-4C14-AD83-BAFDC07A0AFC.png
 
Last edited:
Good work as usual, Pete! I have both beam and clicker torque wrenches in both foot pound and inch pound ranges, but if I could have only one set or the other, I'd keep the beam wrenches: they're far more durable than clickers and hold calibration much better, and a decent quality beam wrench can be had for the price of a junk clicker. Dave, a torque wrench, like most measuring instruments, is most accurate in the middle of its range, so you might consider buying both light and medium duty wrenches.
 
One place I was stationed at in the Air Force had a T. wrench calibration bench. Guys used to bring me their wrenches to check 'em, and adjust if necessary. The beam type wrenches were invariably dead on. At the time that kinda surprised me... but also made a believer of me. I use both... and tend to trust the beams more so than the clickers.
 
Jim said:
One place I was stationed at in the Air Force had a T. wrench calibration bench. Guys used to bring me their wrenches to check 'em, and adjust if necessary. The beam type wrenches were invariably dead on. At the time that kinda surprised me... but also made a believer of me. I use both... and tend to trust the beams more so than the clickers.
Click to expand...

The physics behind a beam type wrench is absolutely dead simple and any second year mechanical or civil engineering student can do all the calculations to design one.

For a clicker and even more so for an electronic type torque wrench however, there is a WHOLE different level of fancy stuff required and unless you’re getting one from a reputable (i.e. expensive) place, they’d be very easy to mess up.
 
Unless you use a beam type for a breaker bar it should never change.Clickers are a little more fool proof if set correctly.
 

Similar threads

SpookyWizard
Popping my XS650 cherry, the Journey so far.
2 3
Replies
43
Views
3K
nj1639
nj1639
Mailman
Are these bikes ever really done?
4 5 6
Replies
103
Views
8K
Wirenutt
Wirenutt
Mailman
Marbles Motors failed gas tank liner, then screwed up the warranty repair!
9 10 11
Replies
214
Views
25K
Jim
Jim
Mailman
1972 XS2 tachometer repair
Replies
16
Views
4K
geedubya
G
toglhot
A very enjoyable five days in hospital.
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
jetmechmarty
jetmechmarty
Back
Top