rmenforce
XS650 Member
thanks... I'm going to start the wiring tomorrow, will check before I start..
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some wiring diagrams
- Thread starter inxs
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- diagram electrical wiring
Liftedzuki
XS650 Addict
Opinions
Liftedzuki, You have nothing telling us what the letters mean.
Lets start on the left. The P is for Pamco. That part with the coil looks fine.
Now on the right the A is alternator, from the look of it it's a PMA.
The R is the reg/rec So far so good. The next thing is B, battery I assume. It has a few extra connections. most only have a + and -. moving left, what's I, A ,S ? Going up what's C, R S 1,2,3?
Leo
Lets start on the left. The P is for Pamco. That part with the coil looks fine.
Now on the right the A is alternator, from the look of it it's a PMA.
The R is the reg/rec So far so good. The next thing is B, battery I assume. It has a few extra connections. most only have a + and -. moving left, what's I, A ,S ? Going up what's C, R S 1,2,3?
Leo
its a bit brief to be sure 
I guess 1,2 & 3 are supposed to represent fuses ?
What on earth is S coming from the middle of the battery ?
Why don't you pick one of the many tried and tested schematics in this thread and modify that if you need to .?
Liftedzuki
XS650 Addict
Haha my bad I was tired last night.
I is ignition, (start/accessory)
I have a relay to 3 fuses (S from ignition goes to the trigger on the relay)
ignore the C, I had a brain fart.
1 2 3 is my fuse block (eastern beaver)
I have my headlight going to a SPDT switch next to my ignition switch. Fuse #2 goes to that, and up is low, down is high. fuse 3 will be the tail light.
I'm using my ignition as my kill, as no other wires are going to my bars. I'll be using hand signals, and no horn (if someone is going to hit me, a horn is going to just confuse them more, I've never used a horn in my life, I don't trust others to correct their path, I'll move to safety rather than worry about hitting a horn)
Thanks very much, I just went off what was in front of me, I have looked at schematics but it was easier for me to just put all the parts on and figure where everything is gonna go.
I is ignition, (start/accessory)
I have a relay to 3 fuses (S from ignition goes to the trigger on the relay)
ignore the C, I had a brain fart.
1 2 3 is my fuse block (eastern beaver)
I have my headlight going to a SPDT switch next to my ignition switch. Fuse #2 goes to that, and up is low, down is high. fuse 3 will be the tail light.
I'm using my ignition as my kill, as no other wires are going to my bars. I'll be using hand signals, and no horn (if someone is going to hit me, a horn is going to just confuse them more, I've never used a horn in my life, I don't trust others to correct their path, I'll move to safety rather than worry about hitting a horn)
Thanks very much, I just went off what was in front of me, I have looked at schematics but it was easier for me to just put all the parts on and figure where everything is gonna go.
POGO
XS650 Member
Hi
I've basically used this wiring for my bike but I kept the standard coils and points but since installing the pma I can't get the bike to run properly.
[/QUOTE]
I've balanced the carbs and tried different jets and needle positions but with no real improvement and I'm now wondering if it's an electrical problem.
on the diagram I notice that the red wire from the regulator goes to the sparks capasitor but T's off to the ignition switch between the two. mine goes from the regulator to the Sparks and then from the sparks the ignition switch.
Would this have any effect on the power supply to the coils the way I've wired it ?
To me it shouldn't make a differance but I'm stuck as to why the bike wont run . It ticks over fine now but when you accelerate it coughs and splutters and misfires shut the throttle off and it comes back running fine and some times it takes a while to come back running smooth.
Any ideas on what to try
.
I've basically used this wiring for my bike but I kept the standard coils and points but since installing the pma I can't get the bike to run properly.
I've balanced the carbs and tried different jets and needle positions but with no real improvement and I'm now wondering if it's an electrical problem.
on the diagram I notice that the red wire from the regulator goes to the sparks capasitor but T's off to the ignition switch between the two. mine goes from the regulator to the Sparks and then from the sparks the ignition switch.
Would this have any effect on the power supply to the coils the way I've wired it ?
To me it shouldn't make a differance but I'm stuck as to why the bike wont run . It ticks over fine now but when you accelerate it coughs and splutters and misfires shut the throttle off and it comes back running fine and some times it takes a while to come back running smooth.
Any ideas on what to try
.
member3480
RICH
No diagram is fine I use that one all the time with my harnesses I sell.
Here may be the problem and you would need a meter to check it out.
When you run a battery on a bike and it goes below 9 volts the bike will sputter because its not getting enough voltage. Now I know there are guys on here running a PMA and points with no problem. I am doing a harness right now same way as you but guy will get it this week so we can ask after he installs his.
You can also check points gap. PMA is much stronger than a stock setup and there were some that I read about that pasted more than 14.5 volts and higher voltage will also have a effect on points. Burned a couple up myself drag racing years with a CB750
GOD BLESS THE ELECTRONIC IGNITION
So what I would check and easy to do with a meter see what at above 1800 rpm the charging voltage is going too and I would look at those points. Sounds electronic to me if bike was fine before you installed PMA. Dumb question did you check timing?
Here may be the problem and you would need a meter to check it out.
When you run a battery on a bike and it goes below 9 volts the bike will sputter because its not getting enough voltage. Now I know there are guys on here running a PMA and points with no problem. I am doing a harness right now same way as you but guy will get it this week so we can ask after he installs his.
You can also check points gap. PMA is much stronger than a stock setup and there were some that I read about that pasted more than 14.5 volts and higher voltage will also have a effect on points. Burned a couple up myself drag racing years with a CB750
GOD BLESS THE ELECTRONIC IGNITION
So what I would check and easy to do with a meter see what at above 1800 rpm the charging voltage is going too and I would look at those points. Sounds electronic to me if bike was fine before you installed PMA. Dumb question did you check timing?
member3480
RICH
No battery just using that as a example. SPRAX work as the battery
Sprax is nothing more than a capacitor that keep voltage down. Things like a sprax have been around for many years . I ran a BSA in the 70's and80's with MAX same thing.
Sprax is nothing more than a capacitor that keep voltage down. Things like a sprax have been around for many years . I ran a BSA in the 70's and80's with MAX same thing.
POGO
XS650 Member
The bike ran fine before installing the PMA and I've checked the timing which is spot on as are the points and gapped as per the manual one thing I haven't checked is the voltage at the SPARX
Cheers for that
Cheers for that
shawn00sa
XS650 Addict
Can anyone help me with a kill switch? I just rewired a points ignition, no starter project. I have elemintared the stock 3 position kill switch. In its place I have a headlight switch with a push button kill switch. I am no expert but it appears the switch is normally open and when I push it it goes to closed....... How the heck do I wire this thing in?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
shawnOOsa,
Those types of kill switches work by shorting out the points to ground. Trouble is, if you have the stock points setup, there are two sets of points and only one set of switch contacts. You could do one of three things.
1. Convert to a dual output coil and tie both sets of points together with just one condenser.
2. Convert to MikesXS dual lobe cam and eliminate one set of points and use a dual output coil with just one condenser.
3. Use two diodes with at least 400 V peak reverse voltage rating to connect each set of points to the kill switch. (1N4005 @ 50 cents each)
Option #3 is the most cost effective and the simplest solution.
Those types of kill switches work by shorting out the points to ground. Trouble is, if you have the stock points setup, there are two sets of points and only one set of switch contacts. You could do one of three things.
1. Convert to a dual output coil and tie both sets of points together with just one condenser.
2. Convert to MikesXS dual lobe cam and eliminate one set of points and use a dual output coil with just one condenser.
3. Use two diodes with at least 400 V peak reverse voltage rating to connect each set of points to the kill switch. (1N4005 @ 50 cents each)
Option #3 is the most cost effective and the simplest solution.
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shawn00sa
XS650 Addict
Pamcopete. Thanks......will this kill switch work with the Pamco?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
shawnOOsa,
Yes, but there is only one equivalent set of points, so you do not have to do anything creative. Just connect the switch between the PAMCO green wire and ground.
Yes, but there is only one equivalent set of points, so you do not have to do anything creative. Just connect the switch between the PAMCO green wire and ground.
I think I've reached the level of clinical obsession with eliminating wires. Here is another one, this time using a PMA / Pamco with a breaker instead of a fuse and a capacitor instead of a battery.
Is it just me or couldnt all you batteryless people run a rectifier only instead of the rec/reg combo?
How do you plan to regulate the voltage?
That's kind of what my question leads Into. I thought even in the combine unit, the regulated voltage came through the green and brown. My units are seperate. I have a rectifier (which they say to wire before the key ignition on the battery side) and a regulator, which tht say to wire after the the key ignition. How does the voltage get regulated and rectified in that scenario?
Can you be more specific. Post the diagram that you are referring to that has the green and brown.
Such as this. As you know, the only difference between this rec/reg and mine is mine are separated.
It does not matter whether you have a combo unit or separate rectifier and regulator. The rectifier output must be wired in before the key in both cases. If the rectifier output was wired in after the key, you would be unable to shut off the engine using the key.
Again in both cases, the brown wire senses the voltage after the key, as that is the voltage,you want to control, to the loads.
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