Discussion in 'The Garage' started by inxs, Oct 14, 2009.
See if this video doesn't help you out.
These 2 threads will help ....................post pics........... Points model solid state combined Reg/Rect are available. There is a cheap alternative using a car regulator and making up a bridge rectifier
Yes it will be agreat helping. Thaks alot!
in an earlier post (post $4) you posted a pic of the wireing diagram your bike had with no battery and a 10000uf 24v cap in it to ground
My question is shouldn't that cap be 10000uf 14.5v instead of 24v ? I may well use this if I can't get liscnses on my bike and just turn it into a scrambler
why the 24v cap ? is that what the altenator puts out ? if so wouldn't that blow out the lights and stuff ??? sense it is hooked into the hot lead where the battery used to be ?
thanks for the help !
The voltage rating of a capacitor is only for its maximum voltage that the insulation can withstand. The capacitor will only charge up to the voltage that the regulator is controlling at. If the regulator puts out 14.5 volts, then that is all that the capacitor will have.
Duh ! ok that answers that ..... thank you !!!
I can't see the vid anymore... could you postme the link please? Thanks in advance!
If can't see it again just go on YouTube and search xs650 wiring, you'll find it.
You may be experiencing an international access problem. 650Skull noted that in here:
I HAVE RECENTLY AQIRED A 1980 XS650 SPECIAL-- HAS BEEN IN STORAGE FOR 10 - 15YRS ... HAVE IT RUNNING & CLEANED UP . I HAVE BEEN IN THE MOTORCYCLE TRADE
FOR 40 + YEARS NOW RETIRED.
THIS IS ONE OF SEVERAL PROJECTS IN THE WORKS . I HAVE DONE LITTLE WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON THESE SO I DO NOT NEED TO REINVENT WHAT YOU ALL HAVE SPENT YOUR TIME ON DETERMINING ..
REMOVED THE STOCK TURN SIGS & WOULD LIKE TO REMOVE AS MUCH OF ALL THE SUPPOSED SAFETY COMPONENT I CAN . WHERE DO I START ??
SOMETHING ODD I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET A HAND ON IS THAT I SEEM TO HAVE FEEDBACK BACK THRU THE OPOSIT SIGNAL BEING USED . USING ONLY TEST LITES IN EACH CIRCUIT IF I HAVE THE LEFT SIGNAL ON . THE
RH WILL LITE LOW POWER . WHAT I HAVE DETERMINED IS THAT IF I UNPLUG THE INDICATOR LITE ALL IS WELL . I CAN JUST REMOVE THE BULB & ALL WORKS ..
THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH WAS NOT USABLE SO I HAVE ORDERED ANOTHER . THE PROBLEM DID EXIST BEFORE I STARTED SO IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH JUST THE FACT OF THE LED CONVERSION ...
Would like to help...............try posting without caps lock on.
HEY BOB SKEFFINGTON!
On removing the supposed safety component(s), first make sure your bike is an '80, and then in the beginnings of this thread you'll find a schematic for your bike. Trace out what you want to remove and have at it. There are some bare bones basic wiring schematics too, if you want to start from scratch.
On your turn signal issue, get your new switch and see if it fixes it. If not, trace out the wiring to the indicator. It's fed by a dark brown and also a dark green, and if I recall correctly - a black ground. Sometimes these dark green and dark( chocolate) brown can be mistaken for a ground wire and be inserted into the harness incorrectly for some interesting issues. Look in the headlight bucket.
it is titled as a 1980 .. date is rubbed off as most are .. i can rewire it no problem . looking for quick things i can do for now. do not want to get to involved this time of year. can do that in the winter . i have decided what to do for the signals . will just rewire that portion for now. i know the members have been through the component elimination over enough times i dont need to reinvent the wheel for now . may be best just to plug all components in for now.
On my 82 XS650 I disabled the side stand safty switch (cut the wire), the start blocking of the safty relay ran a jumper from hot to the starter relay and unpluged the safty relay...... I havn't done anything to the headlight safty thing because it's working fine but if it gives me any trouble it's out'a there too... nothing smoked so i figure it's fine ! LOL
..... I can start the bike IN GEAR if i want to or ride off with the side stand down... (ain't happening) and I can darn well tell if my headlight ain't working just by looking at it ! I mean really ! what kind of dummies do they think ride these things anyway ?
..... ( Yes I know the starter can Now be enguaged while the motor is RUNNING..........OMG all my life that has been possable, why change it now ?)......I know to add more weight !!!! we all know it needs to be heaver ...Right ???? LOL
Next they'll add a murcury switch in there that Kills the entire electrical system if the bike falls over ! and you'll have to be towed to your nearest dealer to have it fixed!
There is no side-stand safety relay on an 80SG............ Only on the 82/83 Heritage Specials..........Wont affect you so don't spend to much of your time looking, lol.
Reasons i would not remove that Starter/headlight relay...... The headlight wont come on before the engine starts, less draw on the battery when using electric start..............Easy to see, pun intended, when the headlight light blows at night....................Not so easy to see when it blows in the daytime..........When ever i started my 83 Heritage bike, (80 is the same), in the daylight, i had to put my hand over the front to check if the headlight was working............The headlight safety relay also incorporates the starter cutout relay.............................The gears sound bad on the electric start, (this is normal), if the wishbone spring looses tension the gears can be damaged, this is a common happening and is an easy fix............. Removing the starter relay means every fraction of a second between the engine catching and the release of the starter button means the gears are still engaged and getting damaged............ It does matter on these bikes.
Some remove the Reserve light unit. This switches to the high/low beam if the other cuts out. Again some say get rid of it before it shits itself, and dies no good because any fool an see the headlight isn't working at night.............As long as it is working it will react to a nighttime situation faster than i could process the loss of sight and using the hi/low switch in time to be able to see my self going off the road.
RLU............unplug it, connect blue/black to blue/yellow............Just unplug the Flasher cancelling unit
Good info. there Skull thanks !
I had my Honda 700 shadow 's headlight die on me one night in some real tight twisties doing about 50mph leaning into the turn enjoying the ride on a hot summers night and I was at the crest of a hill clift on the left to a dry creek bed about 1500ft below bam no light !
I tried to find the switch to flip to low beam but missed it... I could not see anything not even the bike beneeth me ! totally blind !
I grabbed both brakes and new that wasn't going to be enough before I went off the road so I angled toward where the shoulder and Hill was as that was on the apex of the turn .... I wound up in the ditch but other wise everything was fine bike still running but no lights anywhere ..... first time that has happened on this bike ... I'm thinking I must have blown a fuze I tried to get the kickstand down but being in the ditch that didn't happen so I reached up to the key and was going to turn it off and got it about half way off the click and the lights came back on so I turned it back on before the motor died.... and the lights went out ...I wiggled the key a bit and the lights came on.....
I rode slower the rest of the way home and the lights blinked a few more times but never went out completely like they did before
I pulled the key switch the next day and discovered that their CRIMP/Press of the back portion of the key switch wasn't good enough to hold the back on as it was almost ready to fall out.... it took some fiddling but I got it fixed and crimped much better than it was.....
never had that problem ever again.....
But Lights out on a dark road at night is not something you want to do...... that is for sure ! talk about being cought off guard !
you certanly cannot react fast enough to find that switch and try to switch beams you'll be off the road before you find it ! I found the switch just as I hit the ditch....the 2nd time.... didn't do a thing....... I almost got her stopped in time too like I only went into the ditch about 8 feet.....twas kind'a rough though...there were large rocks in it ! LOL......
but better the ditch than the gardrail and clift on the other side..... it was a moonless night with a hase up high not much star-light
and it was soo dark you could not see your hand in front of your face ! ....normially there is allot of ambiant light but not that night !
I added running lights after that to the roll bar on the bike just incase that happened again ....they were fed directly to the battery
through a toggle switch.... worked very good.
..... so given my past experience I think I'll keep the reserve lighting thing..... electronics are a bunch faster than the hand !
Every once in a while the starter bendix doesn't want to fully enguage I think that wishbone spring needs tightened ! I plan to do that next time I have the cover off on the clutch side.... ( if I get my way that will be a long time from now ! ) LOL
So your are saying you have disconnected the combined Starter/Headlight safety relay, because any dummy can see when the light is working, but the headlight safety relay is designed to bring the headlight on after the bike has Started and keep it on all the time.....No on/off headlight switch...........Now when you start your bike with the electric start, the power from the battery is feeding the headlight and also trying to find enough power to crank the starter motor.
No, I attacked the components that were not working for verious reasons... My starter wouldn't work because the safty relay was doing it's job..... so I simply unpluged it's connection to the starter relay and powered it from the hot post of the starter relay.... by passing the safty relay. the starter works at all times now even without the Key on... and I like it that way.....
the safty relay is still there doing it's thing it's probably hooked to a dozen other things .... so rather than having to worry about what ever else it was hooked to I just fixed the starter relay the way I wanted it to work.
the side stand switch was definately more greef than it was worth... but cutting it's wire was quick and easy and allowed the bike to run with the side stand down..... the reserve Lighting relay thingie I have not messed with because I figured that might be a good thing to have
and if it's a good thing I ain't going to take it off.... LOL
Yes I know the starter can now enguage and hurt things with the engine running.... but I won't try to start the motor if it's already running.
.... the inability of the bike to start unless it is in neutral is in my mind STUPID .... I used the starter in gear 3 times today and it worked great.... the idea of having the motor die at a signal in town and then having to quickly find neutral re start it and put it back in gear can get your butt ran over ! .... I don't have that problem anymore !
Bob.........I suggest you go and learn what the components are called and what they do.................. A safety relay on a factory TCI model has 2 parts to 1 component. 1 part is the starter cut off, to stop any damage to the starter gears when the engine fires.......the second part operates the headlight so it won't come on until the engine fires.
In this paragraph you have said the starter wouldn't work because the safety relay was doing its job..........If it was doing its job the starter would have operated........
Stating a component is doing its thing and probably hooked to any number of things is what?.........Certainly has no substance, A statement like that give no helpful information relating to any one thing, especially the OPs questions.........An airy fairy answer like, something that may be something, is more about filling up threads than any concrete help. Its mostly double dutch, misleading and confusing.
Separate names with a comma.