spark at points and plugs??

The primary side should be at 3.9 ohms it can test from about 3.12 to 4.68 and be ok. The secondary should be 8K ohms. Or 8,000 ohms. 6400 to 9600 is ok.
Both sides can be + or - 20%
The secondary side depends on if you are testing just the coil, coil and wires, coil, wires and caps.
The book covers stock parts. If you have an aftermarket coil it can be very different.
A coil with X number of feet of wire in the secondary side gives you 8,000 ohms and 10,000 volts output a coil with X x 2 feet of wire will have 16,000 ohms and 20,000 volts output.
These figures are just for explaining a basic concept. Actual numbers will be different.
 
Ran a couple of coil tests. I have a brown and orange wire, not a red/white one as the book states.

Left side primary--11.0
Right side primary--6.0

Left side secondary through plug wire--14,000
Right side secondary through plug wire--14,000

Left side secondary minus coil wire--9800
Right side secondary minus plug wire--8600

Left plug wire--10,000
Right plug wire--8,600

Seems like the numbers are a bit high. Should I scrap them?

Moving on to sync the carbs.
 
had a "wow" moment today. Heard some arcing under the tank, and when i went to investigate, found one of the towers arcing *through* the boot to the frame. Impressive. Applied some dielectric grease to the inside of the boot, spread the wires a bit more on the wire for more contact, made sure they were seated properly, and everything seems good.

This has nothing to do with the thread. Just an anecdote.
 
Nice when the problem makes itself obvious. Sounds like you've got some serious juice.

Synced the carbs with the long, slim, piece of paper method. Checked the spark of both plugs. Looked good. Turned it over on the battery, hooked to my riding mower for an extra boost. Wouldn't start. Pulled plugs....looked wet. Turned it over with plugs grounded, but not inserted, to hopefully dry things out. Plugs in, tried the kicker, second kick it started. Ran decent, but not consistent, kind of up and down. Shut petcock off to drain line, and drained tank into a clear container. Decent little puddle of water at the bottom of the container, not huge, but definately noticeable. Almost thinking I got a shot of bad gas, when I filled up the other day, don't usually get my gas there. Still thinking a new condenser, also.
 
On your coils the right side looks better than the left. The primary side on the right is a bit high but doable.
I might try different coils if you have a set. If you are going to buy a set, try a higher output set. The higher output coils will help it start and run better.
You can use a dual output coil if it has about 5 ohms primary. Harley used this type of coil many years. The aftermarket sells tons of them. I used one from a Harley when I had points. You can find them from around $30 up to scary prices.
To use one just hook both sets of points to the + side of the coil, - to the points.
 
I don't have any other coils, so would end up buying something. I wonder if I could use the coil in Pamco's kit, I think it's Mikes#17-6822? Looks like I would have to switch the to a dual lobe point cam, and single contact point. That would put me one step closer to Pete's set-up.
 
That coil will work with points just fine. I would just hook both points wires together and hook them to the positive side of that coil.
I'm not sure about if it can work with the pamco ignition.
I might try #17-6803, same price or the #17-6810, $69, Hook these in with a ballast resister inline to work with points. When you go to the Pamco, remove the resister.
A ballast resister is a big ceramic resistor that can handle the current. You can get one at a parts store or at a Tractor Supply Store. About $5.
I'm not sure But your Beetle might have used a ballast resistor.
 
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I don't have any other coils, so would end up buying something. I wonder if I could use the coil in Pamco's kit, I think it's Mikes#17-6822? Looks like I would have to switch the to a dual lobe point cam, and single contact point. That would put me one step closer to Pete's set-up.

The 17-6822 coil will work just fine with the PAMCO. That is the coil that Mike ships with the 14-0901 and 14-0902 kits. The coil produces 37,000 Volts @ 14.5 Battery volts

XSLeo is correct as well as I originally spec'd the PAMCO to use a coil with 2.5 to 3 Ohms, but after testing the 17-6822 coil, I have revised the spec to 2.5 to 4.5 Ohms. Basically, I think its the improved technology in these newer coils. The higher resistance of this coil along with the 60 degree rotor makes it a really cool running coil.


You will also get 37,000 volts using points with this coil. You will initially see two timing marks if you wire the points together, but just a little trial and error and you will be able to tell which set is associated with which strobe. As XSLeo suggests, using the two sets of points wired together has its advantages as well. It allows you to set each cylinder to fire at the same time and you will not have the added expense of the dual lobe cam.

Note: Only use one condenser with the points wired together.
 
Thanks for all the info. I've been resistent to electronic ignition maybe for nostalgic reasons, but want to ride this baby, and have it be reliable. I like things simple, and kind of figured points/coil/condenser was the simplest set-up, but seriously doubting that now. Looks like the Pamco might be the simplest solution, and certainly admire Pete's willingness to help out even if your looking at keeping points. If $$ is not an issue is the Pamco just the simplest way to go?
 
Would I need a ballast resistor with the 17-6822 coil, or just the other two. If so would it go between the coil and the points? Also, do the ballast resistors come in different ratings? Looks like there 3 wires coming out of the coil (hard to tell from the pic, maybe only two) I assume positive which would go to both points, a negative to ground? and perhaps the third to the single condenser? Sorry, my electrical knowledge is very poor.
 
Pete says it will work, I trust Pete.
I think the Pamco is a great ignition, easy to install, easy to adjust, and the best customer support.
 
Cool thanks for the info.

Hard to imagine it costs $11 to ship a coil from Florida to Maine.
 
The 14-0901 appears to be unavailable at Mikes, though if you ask for each item separate, they all seem available......????
 
ironwill,

The 14-0901 is available. I think you meant the 14-0902 which includes all the advance parts. The brass bushings are out of stock for that kit.
 
I tried the 14-0901 again just to double-check, and still says unavailable when you go to purchase it.

Got an e-mail back from them. They said they hope to have more kits by friday.
 
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Think they were out of coils. Just tried again and it went through. Looking forward to my new ignition. Hope it straightens this baby out. Was curious about mounting, as I currently have coils mounted behind engine. The new coil will be mounted over the engine in the original coil position. My question is should I move the rectifier out of the "fake oil tank" and mount it on the center post where my coils are now? My regulator, and rectifier are separate. Thanks.
 
ironwill,

Well, the rectifier gets hot, and it is supposed to, so for longer life it would not be a bad idea to move it out of the oil tank and into the breeze.

Take a look at the web site, www.yamahaxs650.com for some recommended ideas to mount the coil.
 
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