Stalls when I put it in gear.

[Hntg4evr]

Also, one more question...did theyes come with different sized tachometer cables? My tach works and the cable works when attached to a drill but when attached to bike, it seems too short. I have checked the oil pump and it is functioning. When the cable is put on both tach and oil pump, it doesn't work.

 

[weekendrider]

Is it a Mikes replacement cable? This may help.

 

[Hntg4evr]

It could be??? I didn't replace it but the p.o. might have. It seems a lot shorter than 1/4inch. I try to put it in the spots on the side of the frame where it is suppose to go and it won't come anywhere close to fitting. What is the length for an oem cable vs a Mike's cable?

 

[Hntg4evr]

Here is pics of the seal...I would say it needs replaced

 

[Paul Sutton]

I am not sure how much is damage from removal but it does look as if the rubber has gone hard/perished and started to crack and break off. Just take care replacing it. I usually buy seals in pairs so if I mess it up I have a second chance. These seals usually push in quite easily. Some people use sockets to knock seals into place but I make oak plungers to push them in since I have access to a lathe. I also pack grease around the spring on the inner-side to stop the spring popping off when I hammer it in. I find that the larger the seal the easier it is for the spring to pop off. There may be other advice out there to prevent this happening, but I just use grease.

Good luck.

 

[Hntg4evr]

Thanks Paul, I bought 2. What spring? I don't see a spring there. Am I missing something?

 

[Paul Sutton]

Most oil seals have a spring. It is very finely wound and then twisted back on itself to form a circle. If you look behind the seal in that hollow area it will be there and its purpose is to apply gentle pressure on the center part that seals against the shaft. In your first photo of the seal the spring would have been wrapped around that central part where a piece of the seal has been broken off. Without it the seal will leak. It may have come off when you removed the seal. Check the new seals and you will see it.

 

[Hntg4evr]

Ok, thanks. I didn't see one but that may be why it was leaking. The p.o. did all kinds of stupid stuff with it so it's hard to tell. I couldn't pass it up though, I only paid 250 for it and I have another 200 in it. I don't think that too bad.

 

[Paul Sutton]

There are videos on YouTube that show seals being replaced. There should be an XS650 video specific for this seal and it will talk about smoothing off that very sharp edge. Have fun!!!

 

[Hntg4evr]

Yeah I saw nightflyers video

 

[mrtwowheel]

I just don't see this tip on forums but this is the way that I was taught. When replacing a seal over a shaft like a shifter or fork seal I clean the shaft, tape the end and rough spots of the shaft with electrical tape, like the first 2 inches and edge of a fork tube, or the edge and rough part of the shifter shaft, then grease the tape, shaft and seal lips before installing the seal.

Scott

 

[johnnmcguire]

The TCI (ignition module) is interlocked with neutral switch and sidestand switch. Engine runs in neutral, but when you select first gear you are losing the sidestand interlock. The sidestand switch must be closed.

Have a look at the switch.................repair it or jumper the contacts.

Thought I'd share a couple pics to illustrate. Cut mine of above the connector by the seat last night as shown, twisted the wires together, and rode it around the parking lot for its first cruise in decades. Who ever thought these switches were a good idea?