GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
Thanks 5twins, I was just not sure if the updated location went hand in hand with the spring clip tension revisions. Sounds like it does! Thanks for the help!
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Thanks 5twins, I was just not sure if the updated location went hand in hand with the spring clip tension revisions. Sounds like it does! Thanks for the help!
Well no, it really doesn't. That new heavier wire clip will be found located in the new position regardless of whether it has been re-tensioned or not. It just plain won't fit in the original cast slot because the loop is too big.
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
I see. So if I was using the original (retensioned) clip, go back to the original clip orientation?
No, you're not getting it. The part was changed by the factory around 1975. The new part (clip) was made of heavier, thicker wire. It won't physically fit in the old casting. Your '76 should have the newer updated clip. The part was changed for the same reason we bend the clips tighter, to try and cure the starter grinding. But even the new heavier part eventually spreads open more and the problem returns. If you have a '75 or older model, it's probably a good idea to put the new heavier clip in. But, you might need a newer gear to go with it too. I'm not sure about that. The groove on the gear that the clip snaps into might be bigger too.
GeorgeOC
XS650 Junkie
5twins, thank you. I think I'm clear now... Thanks for your patience with this rookie!
dps650rider
XS650 Addict
So, I had my starter gear out yet again. The gear and wishbone spring were replaced a couple years ago or so, and the spring was a new OEM part. Checked the tension with a fish scale and only 3 pounds to make it slip on the gear. So I retensioned it again and reduced the tension on the return spring until there was just a bit of tension on it when the gear was in the home position. Really didn't like the idea of leaving it out.
So it works OK again for a while, really would like to see some kind of permanent fix for this problem like an even stronger spring...
So it works OK again for a while, really would like to see some kind of permanent fix for this problem like an even stronger spring...
Paul, MaxPete just did a this and has an fantastically well documented breakdown in his thread.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/build-thread-special-to-cafe-bike.48165/page-13#post-516084
I guess photo bucket wants to charge me now to host free pictures to help people.
It's pretty simple, if you push your starter button and it just spins, doesn't engage the starter gear its easy to take the starter gear off. The spring will be attached. With the spring attached on the gear squeeze the ends of the springs in a vice tightly. That's it.... there will be now be the right pressure to engage the starter gear. .
Yes, that's one of the damper springs for the clutch hub. They absorb the shock of clutch engagement and driveline "snatch" when rolling the throttle on and off. Most chain driven bikes rubber mount the rear sprocket to do this job. The 650 isn't like that, it's rear sprocket is solid mounted. Unfortunately, it's a fairly common occurrence for them to break. There's a kit with replacement springs but it's rather expensive, also a lot of work to install. The clutch hub is riveted together so you have to drill it apart. You can usually find another complete used clutch for less than the kit.
Well, you guys know what you are doing so I'm going to leave it be, not ideal but not so bad I guess. Now, if more of these broke is there a sure fire way of noticing?
BTW, I just squeezed the spring clip in the vice and it's measuring around 7.5 pounds so all good. When I took it out I could spin it with my finger!
BTW, I just squeezed the spring clip in the vice and it's measuring around 7.5 pounds so all good. When I took it out I could spin it with my finger!
If more springs start breaking, I think you'll notice the clutch starting to get a little grabby and engaging with a bit of a "clunk" when taking off in 1st gear. If you get to the point where you are shopping for another clutch assembly, take the opportunity to upgrade to the later '80 or newer 6 plate unit. It has a spring-loaded bottom steel plate, sort of a "damper" plate, and that smooths the engagement. This puts less strain on those clutch hub damper springs.
Thunking out loud, a chunk of braided rubber fuel line in that space?
I think there is an Aussie kit out there that does replace half the springs with some sort of solid plastic block or round bar stock.
I've managed to find replacement button head screws and thin nuts like the kits use to replace the hub rivets. Now all I need to find is a proper replacement spring. As it stands now, all I can do is take 2 hubs with broken springs and make one good one.
I've managed to find replacement button head screws and thin nuts like the kits use to replace the hub rivets. Now all I need to find is a proper replacement spring. As it stands now, all I can do is take 2 hubs with broken springs and make one good one.
They take a pretty much constant beating as you ride the bike. Every time you roll on or off the throttle, they get pushed against or that pressure is released. I'm also looking into adapting a different rear wheel that has a rubber mounted or "cush drive" sprocket. I think that would be a big help.
