Starting from scratch 1981 xs650

Something else you may want to check - many of the side covers (pretty much all I've seen) have a ridge around the mounting hole for the nylon worm .....

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If you make the mounting screws too tight, actually just much past snug, they will pull the mounting ears down, distort the nylon worm, and cause binding. The "fix" is to remove that ridge. I "polish" it off using 1" Roloc discs .....

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Don't forget to pack the worm full of grease. The high ribs on one part fit into the grooves on the other and vice versa, so pack the grooves full of grease on both parts. Then work the two parts together, in and out, and wipe off the excess grease that gets displaced. You'll be left with a nicely 100% greased worm assembly .....

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Update OLD ROOKIE (when it comes to motorcycles) 1981 xs650
Hello Everyone Here's what has been going on with my renovation

two steps forward and then a step back:


On the clutch lever, i some how broke the wiring connection
Now the neutral light stays on all the time and I can start the bike with the clutch depressed and
In GEAR


Background

the bike wasn't charging and the rotor tested out OL

  • Pulled left cover off since bike wasn't charging.
  • When the cover came off, so did the push rod
  • Also I could see the clutch cable was frayed
  • I found a huge mess of oil, road dirt and sand
So this is what I have done;
  • installed new alternator brushes
  • purchased flywheel puller. Also got a new 36mm socket (advance auto, autozone, and home depot reported on the internet that they had this in stock (damn liars). Got it on Amazon
  • Got a new rewound rotor for jim. It works great I tested it after install and battery that tested out a 12.8v unstarted, tests out at 13.48 V at idle. Thank you JIM
  • Purchased new gasket for left side stator cover (installed)
  • Went to the hardware store and found and bought new replacement hex heads and chrome chrome bolts and stator cover
  • I found a huge mess of oil, road dirt and sand
  • Bought and installed new clutch push rod seal and bushing and new Mike's worm actuator ( I am returning that item)
  • cleaned and examined old worm gear actuator. Glued up cracks in the plastic mounting material. Greased it up good.
  • Found and bought two cheap EBAY clutch cables. Lubed the one I used up real goodHeres where I am now: Good news I got everything back together.

What now ? Can I repair the cord that attaches to clutch hand lever ?
Is that why the neutral light stays on ?

Thanks I hope I can HELP all of you out somehow someday.
Patrick
 
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other side of fuse holder voltage.JPG
View attachment 192913 View attachment 192912 View attachment 192912 View attachment 192913 Hello Everyone. I hope all of you gentleman and ladies have a moment
to breath fresh air and feel the cool late spring breeze. It is getting darn hot here in Maryland (near DC VA
borders)
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side of fuse with voltage.JPG
side of fuse with voltage.JPG


Still playing Legos like a good boy. Staying out of mom's hair.
I am however, not on the carpet inside, but on the driveway concrete carpet.

Since I fixed the alternator the head light won't come on and the neutral light doesn't come on.
As of this morning, it won't start.

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The pictures are of me measuring voltage on each side of the MAIN 20 amp circuit.
(see I changed out the old fuses) Is the left side supposed to have no current ?

The first picture is of the relay work around the prior owner did. Also, you'll see the starter relay above that was gerrymandered (by me). Also I disabled the Headlight safety switch, and jumped the two blue striped wires together.

In the same picture you will see unplugged the 6 pin connector with 3 white wires from the regulator and next to it unplugged is the 6 pin plug with three yellow, a green (to the headlights) and a red).

Am I possibly losing something from the yellow and black yellow wire disabled by the screwing around I did on the starter relay (four plug dead end steel thing).

Further up the conglomeration of wires towards the handlebars I found ( 2 in 1)three solid red main circuit wires, three headlight, three blue wires all joined together two in two one.

I have a new wiring harness....
 
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Update
I put the new wiring harness on. Took a lot less time than I thought it would. I also reinstalled the RLD and also the two starter relays. The headlights work ! It starts ! (But the turn signals don't light or flash (but they worked before the new harness).

I have power at the brown wire at the flasher but none at the sockets. My left hand handle bar control switch is 2 weeks $57.99 from MikesSX . It worked well before the new harness. Thanks for everything. I think I pretty much know the brown, dark green turn signal wire scheme.

When it comes to determination, If I am turning a bolt or screw, and it sticks, I'll spend 2 hours or if needed, two months
getting it done. Stay tuned for updates.

Patrick
 
I went fishing this morning. Wow the smallmouth are feasting on the cicadas.
Came home took a nap, then I got back at er

The bike is rewired and everything works !
  • Mike's wiring harness installed. Really very easy but then again I've spent XX's hours looking at schematics and reading posts.
  • Today I replaced glass fuses with inline blade fuses.
  • Tail lights Work Great- I think I had the 2 blade flasher in backward
  • Headlight works Great- The sealed beam connector had a ground problem. 2 new 3 wire plugs $4.97.
Next -
  1. get some plates on her
  2. Inspect and clean rear drums replace shoes
  3. Front brakes Inspect and replace upgrade
Thanks guys and gals for reading. I'll keep you posted
Patrick
 
I went fishing this morning. Wow the smallmouth are feasting on the cicadas.
Came home took a nap, then I got back at er

The bike is rewired and everything works !
  • Mike's wiring harness installed. Really very easy but then again I've spent XX's hours looking at schematics and reading posts.
  • Today I replaced glass fuses with inline blade fuses.
  • Tail lights Work Great- I think I had the 2 blade flasher in backward
  • Headlight works Great- The sealed beam connector had a ground problem. 2 new 3 wire plugs $4.97.
Next -
  1. get some plates on her
  2. Inspect and clean rear drums replace shoes
  3. Front brakes Inspect and replace upgrade
Thanks guys and gals for reading. I'll keep you posted
Patrick
Good job Patrick.
 
Hello,

First of all, I am thankful for all the information I have already gotten from XS650 Forum
and I plan to continue to support this site and be a good member.

My name is Patrick and just got the bike I wanted 40 years. I love it. My plan is to get it reliable
and keep it with historic plates and enjoy regular local outing. What is want to do is buy
an array of electrical (ignition, charging, starting etc). I am doing this myself
with advice from a neighbor. I only paid $1100 so I have no problem buying maybe $1000
of electrical components. I figured keeping it original TCI (due to my lack of tech know how)., and replacing all the old problem areas with quality new parts. I will have input from a skilled neighbor and longtime motorcyclist.


I can turn a wrench and plug and play but I am weak with the multimeter. In addition to go karts, lawn mowersand mini bike build and repair, I have rewired and trouble shot and successfully repaired and maintained my 2003 Mercury 60 hp 2 stroke for 15 years. I have never needed a marine mechanic. I have launched my boat, trailer, and same outboard 600 times since 2002 , logging 30K mileage. Luckily I have always found used parts and cheap ebay parts for my boat, paying 50 for starter, 29 for a complete wiring harness and CDM's. Internet schematics, parts lists, videos, have empowered many, including myself.


It is pretty but has it's issues.
I have looking at posts for few weeks. Then I experienced some of the electrical issues described as
typical.
  • started and ran sometimes with usual grinding sound;
  • bought new battery (post on old one had cracked);
  • took a spin and I ended up stalling;
  • new battery might be dead, and;
  • starts by kick start.
  • carb needs cleaned and rebuilt, I can handle that most likely.
Say I have a $1000 budget for parts. should I just buy a compatible parts new wiring harness, stator, rotor, cables, rectifier etc. What else ? I want it to charge and start and for a long time and be proud of it.
I have already started detailing it out a bit.

Thank you much. Respectively submitted, PATRICK


I gave my bike a makeover using mostly mikes xs parts and just now hit 1k in costs
she looks almost brand new
 
This is what I have spent so:
Mikes wiring harness, left hand handle bar switch, clutch rod lever, misc seals and hardware = $220 approx.

Ebay spark plugs $8 used safety relay $19 three cables $37 flywheel puller $20 xs650 repair manual $15 motorcycle jack $100 Bell helmet $80 nail polish for paint scratch= $ 280 ?

Amazon flywheel puller (wrong size couldn't return waited to long) $16 Misc. electrical parts and connectors $20 lifetime supply of blade fuses $11 a dozen inline blade fuse holders =$11 total $60 approx

Rewound stator Jim no core provided $138

Hardware store hex screws stainless = $13
Autozone the wrong spark plugs = $6

1981 SX 650 Special started and ran, newish tires (parts included original handle bars newish drum brake housing, drum brake shoes and hardware, alternator brushes, two carb kits, cable luber, after market tach. $1100 Total $1870

remaining costs ?

I can afford any thing I want...And I don't want much.
 
Hey Folks, Happy Fathers Day
On my 1981 XS 650
I want to change out the regulator rectifier and can't decide how to do it. Should I remove battery box or
rear wheel ? Am I going to have to open up the alternator compartment ?

Is it possible to remove and replace without doing that ?
As always, thanks.
 
Iirc, I didn't remove either. Side covers, air filters and the plastic false fender's all you need to pull to access it.
 
I don't think the plastic inner fender needs to come off, just the side covers and airbox. Plug for the reg/rec is under the left side cover, one of the two large plugs you'll find there .....

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Yeah.. not really sure why I pulled the plastic fender now. TCI box maybe.... :umm:
 
Called the local Geisha house, they sent a cute little thing over."Anything you want mister, $100"
Great! replace the TCI and voltage regulator. Let me know when you're done.
Those little Japanese hands are SO dexterous!
 
Glad the TCI has been mentioned. That's what the other big plug under the left side cover is for. I was drawing a blank on it, lol.
 
thanks guys I got the new regulator rectifer installed. DUH I wasn't thinking. I did take inner rear fender and changed out the screws to stainless
 
About taillight LED's I was thinking this, to keep it looking OEM, how about opening up taillight lens, remove 1157's and slip an entire new taillight
in the lens housing ? The taillight I am talking about is from Harbor Freight.

With the rubber housing, this light is about the same width 7" that the OEM one is. I think the rubber damper will also work out to provide some dampening.
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Look at the picture on one I gerrymandered to work on my boat trailer. It's worked out great for probably 5 years and they are an improvement over boat led taillights that have plastic mounting screws and self destruct every two years. They are low profile and the zip tie is durable and won't crack if your son (or his daddy) somehow backs the boat in to a pine tree inadvertantly.
 
You do need to provide white light for the license plate....
I actually got stopped for a non functioning license plate light on my Prius!
Onish occifer I'm drot nunk.
White 1157 LEDs do the job?
 
You do need to provide white light for the license plate....
I actually got stopped for a non functioning license plate light on my Prius!
Onish occifer I'm drot nunk.
White 1157 LEDs do the job?
will I need just the bulbs or something else (I have no clue)
 
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