Stator test.

I am Carbon

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I was wondering if anyone has experienced a stator ohms testing good and ground testing good as well, but the stator charge test fails bad. 3.9/3.9/4.5 volts at idle as well at revs no change.
 
Will the slap test work with a pma system?
Heck after reading my first post it lacked a bit of info.
This is my honda aero charging system.
3 phase alt.
I ohmed the 3 wires comming off the stator. ab,bc,ca all 3 tested .6 ohms
them tested each wire to see if they were grounded all 3 were not grounded.
then I conenected the stator back to the reg/rec started the engine and tested for charge voltage at stator wires ab,bc,ca 3.9/3.9/4.5 volts at idle as well at revs no change.
 
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uh... yeah. you may want to include its for a different make model. You've been here long enuf.
slap test dosnt work on pma.
Good luck, though.
 
The Shadows (and a BUNCH of hondas of that era) are notorious for failed voltage regulators.
When my wife's 750 Shadow quit charging I replaced the V/R with a fleabay aftermarket V/R with larger cooling fins and updated internals, problem solved.

This one

A PO had added a heat sink behind the stock VR but I guess that wasn't enough.


Honda areo? Never heard of that. :wink2:
 
I have a Honda CM400, I had charging issues once, tested the stator, got .9, .9. 4.8 ohms. 11, 10.5 and 4.8 AC volts. replaced the stator. don't recall the test numbers on the replacement, but charges well.
In my repair manual it calls for some really different specs than our XS650's. It only lists the three yellow wires on one model. No listings on any others. 78-81 Automatics were .2-1 ohm on the yellows. I assume other will be close.
It says the reg section of the reg/rec can be tested but if done wrong can damage the reg/rec. If you have a salvage yard close by I might look for a Honda rotor and reg/rec like your's and see if it helps.
That's about all I got. Perhaps others with more experience with Honda's can chime in.
Leo
 
The Shadows (and a BUNCH of hondas of that era) are notorious for failed voltage regulators.
When my wife's 750 Shadow quit charging I replaced the V/R with a fleabay aftermarket V/R with larger cooling fins and updated internals, problem solved.

This one

A PO had added a heat sink behind the stock VR but I guess that wasn't enough.


Honda areo? Never heard of that. :wink2:
Hey Gary I fixed the spelling :doh:
I guess honda has taken the original reg/rec and canned it.
It's now obsolete I have replaced the reg/rec this week. with newer version
I was just surprised the after the ohms tests were okay and no grounding that the charging as in the first test in video
voltage just isnt there it should be like the video where his is around 16 volts mine are around 4 volts which surprised me
 
In the 98-03 750 shadow factory manual at the 6 pin connector (separated) stator yellow to yellow should be .1 to .3 ohms. Manual doesn't do an engine running test, but typically AC voltage, engine running is measured yellow to ground, I'd toss out a guess of about 20 volts on all 3 yellows.
 
In the 98-03 750 shadow factory manual at the 6 pin connector (separated) stator yellow to yellow should be .1 to .3 ohms. Manual doesn't do an engine running test, but typically AC voltage, engine running is measured yellow to ground, I'd toss out a guess of about 20 volts on all 3 yellows.

On the vlx600 manual I downloaded says the same. .1 to .3 ohms
I thought it was a VT1100C3 manual untill this week when I went to se it:doh:
any way I have a manual comming and am sure I will be ordering a stator too.

I saw a video it looks like the stator i atached to the outside cover. not sure if its the same engine
 
I've had 40 1100 shadows experienced no charging system failures, just the one failed V R/R on the 750. Seems like I do remember that failure of the three yellow connector was common on the forums, many cut it off and soldered the wires. This is a common failure area on a lot of bikes. But it's also pretty obvious, with yellowed melted brittle plastic evident.
 
When testing the stator the three legs should be close in readings is important. ACv isn't so important.
If you have a diode setting on your meter you can test the RecReg.
Just go from red thru the yellows one direction then the other and back again thru the green. You'll see open one way and it'll beep the other. Again you'll see a pattern and its important that the legs are consistant as with the stator windings.
 
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