Steering head bearing swap out question

[Halftwist]

I’m replacing the old ball bearing set up with a tapered roller bearing set up from all balls. I’ve installed the new races with no problem but my question is do I need to leave the old bottom part of what the ball rode in to take up some space or do I take everything off the steering shaft and the bearings will press down tight as I tighten the shaft into the neck.

 

[fredintoon]

I’m replacing the old ball bearing set up with a tapered roller bearing set up from all balls. I’ve installed the new races with no problem but my question is do I need to leave the old bottom part of what the ball rode in to take up some space or do I take everything off the steering shaft and the bearings will press down tight as I tighten the shaft into the neck.

Hi Halftwist,
nah, that ain't gonna work.
All of the stock crowded ball bearing set has to go, just leave the flat rubber washer under the bottom race in place.
You'll have to "rock" the bottom race off it's seat with alternate sideways blows with a hammer and cold chisel.
The replacement Timken roller assembly has to fit on the precision-ground location that you'll see when the original race is removed.
"Tree in freezer, race in oven at 180ºF, tap race down with a BFH & a long tube" will work.
And while it's apart, drill & tap the frame head tube for a grease nipple.

 

[5twins]

Don't forget the included grease seal for the bottom bearing, it really helps (place on first, under bearing). There's one included for the top bearing as well but you can leave that one out if you like. It really doesn't do anything.

 

[fredintoon]

Don't forget the included grease seal for the bottom bearing, it really helps (place on first, under bearing). There's one included for the top bearing as well but you can leave that one out if you like. It really doesn't do anything.

Hi 5twins,
I'd hate to give Halftwist bad or obsolete data so an update, please?
The Timkens kit my bike got mebbe 20+ years ago only had the races, not any seals.
That's why I suggested leaving the existing flat rubber washer in place.
What's that "included grease seal" look like, would it replace the stock seal or what?

 

[Halftwist]

Thanks guys. I took everything off the shaft and put the bearings and little rubber seals on and sucked it down tight and it drew down onto the machined ledge just like you said. Steering feels smooth as silk, and everything buttoned back up just like it was with no fudging required.

 

[5twins]

The All Balls kit includes additional grease seals. You still retain the original rubber ring seal, this is just an added extra you can install. And like I said, it really helps. My '78 got probably the same kit you used years ago. There was no extra seals in it. I have the grease fitting in the neck which means the neck is loaded with grease. It constantly oozes out the bottom bearing. On the one hand, that makes that bottom bearing "self lubricating", on the other it makes a mess, lol. I recently put the All Balls kit in my '83 with the added grease seal, also grease fitting in the neck. So far, no grease is coming out the bottom like on my '78.

Here's a pic of the All Balls kit. The seals included are both the same. As I mentioned, there's no need to use the top one so that gave me an extra I can some day install on the '78 bottom bearing .....

 

[Halftwist]

Hi 5twins,
I'd hate to give Halftwist bad or obsolete data so an update, please?
The Timkens kit my bike got mebbe 20+ years ago only had the races, not any seals.
That's why I suggested leaving the existing flat rubber washer in place.
What's that "included grease seal" look like, would it replace the stock seal or what?

The all balls kit comes with kind of a flat rubber seal with a tin body that just kinda of clicks onto the bearing so it’s pretty hard to mess up, pretty nifty. I used the round metal shroud/hood that covers the top too. It turned out lookin good and should keep most the dust and moisture out

 

[Halftwist]

The all balls kit comes with kind of a flat rubber seal with a tin body that just kinda of clicks onto the bearing so it’s pretty hard to mess up, pretty nifty. I used the round metal shroud/hood that covers the top too. It turned out lookin good and should keep most the dust and moisture out

Just make sure you put the 3505 on top. whoops