Make sure you set the rack back far enough so the seat will still open. On my Krauser set-ups, the rear of the racks are connected to the license plate bracket. A "U" shaped strap runs across the plate mount under the plate .....



If you get bags, the turn signals may need to be moved. That was required with the Krauser install but they thoughtfully provided new mounting points on the racks.
 
Thanks 5twins.

It doesn't look like it in the picture, but the seat does clear as is and there will be more clearance when the rack moves back to clear the shocks.

I am definitely aware of the need to move the indicators for side bag use. Nice of Krauser to offer a mounting position.

I like that cross piece you mention under the licence plate. I had thought of a strap like that to control side-to-side sway. Glad to see I'm along the right track.
 
IMG_0224.JPG
Yup - definitely the lower position Daniel - looks really good in fact. As long as your mounts are rigid and you don't overload it - I see no problem with the tail light.

I also fully concur with NOT wearing a knapsack. That was the first rule when I did long distance touring on a 10 speed bicycle - let the bike carry the stuff. I never carried anything on my own carcass at all.

When I got Lucille on the road last summer, I bought a tail bag to plunk onto the seat. It only cost about $100 and it holds my laptop, some gloves, tool (she's an elderly lady ya know) and other riding gear and it is totally secure when mounted + I can take it off in about 15 seconds when I go into a store or the office. I can't recall the exact model, but the brand name is Moto-Centric and I think I got it from Motorcycle Superstore (a big mail order place in the US). The bungee-hooks fit perfectly on Lucille's passenger foot peg mounts and the rear turn signal stalks.

On the matter of cutting that frame loop - I bought a nice looking rear grab rail from XSDirect which was advertis d as being suitable for a '76 but it would have required cutting off that loop - so I returned it. No cutting of old bike frames for me.

Nonetheless, I really like your luggage frame. What have you got for bags to mount on it?

Cheers,

Pete
 
Thank you, Pete. I'm really glad to have found the better position under the grab loop. I wasn't thrilled about cutting the frame, and was hoping y'all would talk me out of it. And I've come to like it better for form's sake as well.

No real plans yet on bags other than nascent thoughts of a home-built set based on the construction principles of a diy sailboat I dream of building that's pretty much a plywood box. Simple, glassed plywood construction, designed to withstand a bashing.

http://www.stevproj.com

Very nascent, that. But for now the rack will prove more than useful as a place to strap a knapsack, a duffle, or crate as needed.
 
Yup - great idea! I like that little open wheel race car on the project page linky!

Pete
 
I'm a big fan of luggage racks. I try to find a bag to mount to it permanently. In the case of the 650, that turned out to be a strap mount tank bag. It was pretty much the perfect size to fit the rack and strapped on very securely. It expands up to twice it's height and will hold pretty much a full bag of groceries. I never take it off .....

 
An assortment of needful things reside in the bag all the time - some tools, spare plugs, spare clutch cable, bungee cords, parking plate for under the sidestand, and motorcycle jumper cables. I make up nice little parking plates to support the stand when parked on soft ground. They consist of a small aluminum diamond plate with a short section of line braided to it. The upper end of the line has an eye splice to fit over the footpeg. This way, you don't drive off and forget the thing, lol .....

 
you don't drive off and forget the thing
LOL, Yes I have unintentionally given away at least half a dozen that way. One of the local lawyers passes them out at charity runs so I haven't been out anything yet.
 
I haven't had need for one of those as my side stand isn't cleared for duty. The bracket seems to be stretched out, making for a very steep lean angle. I figure if the bracket is stretched that far, it is clearly not up to the task. I've also read of others misfortunes in trying to tighten that bracket. It's on the list to work on with my friendly colleague.

Gotta make that happen, but we're getting into the busy season...
 
Hey , That rack has such nice bends ! I never thought of how the black would stealthly blend with the stock frame tubes. Good going ! Many of us haven't considered the advantages of having the grab points the rack will give you. Good rear handles make it so much easier to roll the bike around in the yard, garage, parking lots etc. And having rear anchor points add great tie down security. I occasionally haul my bikes in my Ford SWB and the extra tie down anchors in the rear of the bed take away so much concern ! All around Win for a rider who uses his bike for the variety ! RT
 
I noticed you replaced the rear shocks. If the new ones are longer than the originals, the bike will lean over more on the stand, maybe even too much. I had to build up the foot on my stand by welding a good 1/2" or so of plate to the bottom of it.

 
Hey , That rack has such nice bends ! I never thought of how the black would stealthly blend with the stock frame tubes. Good going ! Many of us haven't considered the advantages of having the grab points the rack will give you. All around Win for a rider who uses his bike for the variety ! RT

I can't believe nobody has said it yet but---Nice rack!!

Thanks, to all. I'm really happy with this rack and look forward to the versatile utility.

I have a fairly elegant mounting in mind, hope it turns out as I imagine!
 
Yesterday afternoon I decided it was time to begin the jetting process. At this point, I am satisfied that I have brought Stella up to a pretty good tune. Cam chain is tensioned, valve lash is set to spec, the Boyer's timing is retarded just a bit, carbs are clean, tight, adjusted and synced. She holds a 1200 idle and no longer stalls coming to a turn or stop.

What I've been running for the last 1500mi or so:
  • Stock 77 motor
  • Stock airboxes w/OEM-style K&Ns
  • Stock 76/77 BS38s
  • Stock-sized Mikuni jets, 25/122.5
  • Stock needle & position, 4M1-3
  • Stock exhaust
5twins had suggested that my K&Ns might like a size or two on the mains.

As a first step I've installed the next size up, 125. An improvement, I'd say. Pulls stronger with no discernable break up. I'll run these for a little while, then try 127.5

I don't usually ride in the throttle ranges required to test main jets. Stella's got some get-up-and-go!

I don't recall where I saw the tip, but I've set myself up with a throttle gauge:
IMG_20170216_143754965_HDR.jpg
 
I will be very interested to see how this turns out. You have a nice methodical approach.
 
Yes, these CV carbs are very forgiving so to properly test jetting, you'll need to push them hard. Any little glitches or "bugs" may not show themselves if you don't. That's not the way most of us normally drive but you gotta do it for jet testing. Also watch your MPGs. You'll start losing some if you get too big.

In particular, watch the upper midrange to main transition area, say from about 4K to 5 or 5.5K. As the mains get larger, eventually you will incur break-up under heavy throttle applications in this area. You may get away with a size or two up on the mains but eventually it will happen. You must do this test with heavy or full throttle. When you start getting some break-up, lean your needle to correct it. When you lean your needle that may make a larger pilot necessary.
 
Thank you, 5twins. That's the methodology I planned to follow. Read it in the carb guide, perhaps? Watching MPG is a point I neglected, thank you.

Thanks Mailman. I'm only taking my lead from this very fine group of wrenchers. Your thoroughly documented refurb, various threads detailing experiments such as 2M's and XSJohn's, 5twins' photo collection, etc., etc., etc. This site is an amazing resource and I'm glad to contribute to it in my own humble way.
 
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