Sumotrack

I went through the thread and I really don't have much info on the EFI conversion. So here it is.
Parts list:
02 GSXR600 ITBs
BS34 carb boots
GM intake temp sensor
GM manifold pressure sensor
GM LS2 coils
suzuki throttle position sensor
suzuki injectors
custom drilled fuel rail
2" 36-1 trigger wheel
quantum hfp389 fuel pump
ninja 650 FPR in custom housing
Microsquirt ECU
GM coolant temp sensor modified by thedubshop for aircooled VWs
spartan 2 wideband o2

Process:
The outer pair of ITBs were split off the rack and respaced to fit the XS, this just took 2 spacers and 2 longer bolts, but needed a bit welded on to have the throttle linkage move both. I mounted the boots upside down as well and the ITBs, mostly for fuel rail clearance. The fuel rail is a piece of extrusion that I drilled to work with the injectors that came with the ITBs. Trigger wheel has an aluminum piece that lets it mount in place of the advance mechanism, and it is read by an allegro ats627 sensor in a custom m12x1.25 bolt. fuel pump as seen above in this thread is set up to mount in the tank. It is all wired up using the msextra manual and code.
 
Your welcome. Once I have it tuned well I'll have a base map that should get about any xs atleast started. Main thing needing to be changed would be the oddfire setting if it isn't rephased, and fuel map for individual kods.
 
Well I now have a headlight, speedometer and the numberplate mounted. Just a little more and it'll be done.

I think I have a failing injector causing me problems tuning, so new injectors are coming. Maybe next weekend I'll be able to ride.
 

Attachments

  • 20180617_142632.jpg
    20180617_142632.jpg
    192.7 KB · Views: 302
Ok, I can not recommend the quantum hfp389 pump, it would only put out 30psi when it was supposed to put out 43psi. So I just put one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5DKIKF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 pumps in. It is now holding 43psi as it should. I also switched to CBR1100xx injectors that are 330cc/min compared to the gsxr600 injectors that are 240cc/min. Those 2 changes and it runs much smoother and revs a whole lot better. Still have to get on the road and start tuning, but it is improving.
 
Rode about 3 miles today. This thing sounds mean and moves plenty fast for me. Tune is getting dialed in, things are close enough that autotune can help. A few details to finish up before I can say it's done, but it is pretty darn close.
 

Attachments

  • 20180622_190107.jpg
    20180622_190107.jpg
    165 KB · Views: 317
  • 20180622_190059.jpg
    20180622_190059.jpg
    172.7 KB · Views: 318
  • 20180622_190131.jpg
    20180622_190131.jpg
    173.7 KB · Views: 341
Well I rode it about 10 miles today, unfortunately I ran into 2 problems. First it wouldn't stay in 1st gear. Second my laptop died within 2 miles so no real tuning happened. Laptop is fixed, it was just the battery failing. 1st gear is a different story, I took a pic or part of the problem which is a very worn 1st gear fork. The 1st gear slider is a little worn which probably caused it. Luckily I have an extra bottom end and pulled a good fork out of it, unfortunately the corners are just as rounded on the slider.
 

Attachments

  • 20180623_202539.jpg
    20180623_202539.jpg
    83 KB · Views: 278
I was reading through that yesterday, which is why my engine is out and open. It looks like the 4th gear slider that engages 1st is supposed to have a slight round of the corners. So maybe the wear on the gear isn't as bad as I thought. I'll get a good look at it before doing anything, worst case I get it on the mill and give 1st an undercut.
 
Well I do have my own self-imposed goal of riding it to work by july. Engine is back in, but it looks like starter gear 4 is too worn. Even with retensioning the clip it isn't engaging. So rather than possibly damaging the crank it's waiting on a starter fix kit.
 
Ok, so the spare 4th sliding gear, and shift fork fixed the first gear problems. It now stays in first when it should. The new starter gear 4 fixed the horrible grinding noise so it actually cranks over. Seems to be running decent, off idle is a bit off, and the tune still has a ways to go, but I was able to ride it about 15 miles today. I did stay close to the house incase something decided it was mad at me.
 
One thing I didn't mention, the PMA has plenty of power to run everything. At idle it sits close to 13.1v and riding with higher rpm gets it up around 13.8-14.1. Also the R/R doesn't feel hot after the rides I have taken. I am using a R/R from a kawasaki vulcan, I wanted an inexpensive way to get a genuine R/R and getting the used one cost me about $20.
 
Used genuine R/R is the way to go for PMA. Used they are still a better bet than a lot of new stuff made with no quality control.
 
Progress! I got the new fuel sending unit in the tank, fuel pressure is staying much more stable. Also found part of my problem was the injectors got dirty and partially clogged. Swapped in the other pair of 330cc injectors, spent a good chunk of yesterday and today dialing in the fuel map. Finally on the last run sucess! It pulls all the way to the rev limiter that is set at 7500rpm. Now to dial in cold starts better and go on longer rides to let autotune do its thing. Feels good to finally be getting close to a longer ride. It is surprising how quickly itll get to the limiter now. The pics show the new pressure regulator set up, less joints, less chance for restrictions or leaks.
 

Attachments

  • 20180706_180135.jpg
    20180706_180135.jpg
    93 KB · Views: 295
  • 20180706_180208.jpg
    20180706_180208.jpg
    61.8 KB · Views: 277
Ok update time. I put about 30 miles on the bike today. 1 ride about 5 miles, then recheck to make sure nothing was vibrating loose. Then about 25 miles round trip from the house to the nearest yamaha dealer going the longer slower back way. The bike is running well, the tune is getting closer, and now it is getting into the final details.

Final details are mount the horn, bleed the rear brake when the line gets here tomorrow, and paint the numberplate. I'll probably sharpen the foot pegs as the cheap dirtbike pegs feel slick.
 
Just got back from a 20 mile ride and got to look over the data log. Cylinder head never went over 235* while riding in 89* weather. The trip covered a good bit at 35mph, stop lights, some traffic and stretches of 45-50mph. Autotune is doing its job and the AFR is staying about 14-14.8 cruising, dropping down to 11.9-12.5 under acceleration. I can probably take it a little leaner on cruise, but I also don't want to overheat since this isn't liquid cooled. The VW purge valve is working well as an idle control valve, cold starts it now settles into a slightly low idle coming up to 1150-1200 when warm. So far so good, tomorrow I'll ride it to work since it is only 13 miles.
 
Back
Top