Sump filter Purpose?

gentlemanjim

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I do not see the value of having the sump filter. It is not very serviceable, and prone to failure. Why not just scrap it and put the paper element in the side cover, replace often and you know the oil is being cleaned.
 
Jim...First lie of defense if something comes loose......bits of the starter gear or the front guide or the like would end up in the oil pump.....After bonding the original and gaining confidence that it wasn't coming apart I only clean mine once a year and find very little on it........xsjohn
 
- as john says it acts as a suction side sieve, protecting the oil pump and collecting metal with the magnets...im more concerned about the smallness of the pressure side filter
 
When I decided to put a paper filter on the high pressure side of the oil pump I called Wix and talked with and engineer for a good while about paper filters........as a general rule he described the filter as limiting the flow by 15-20 percent (as determined with """30 weight oil""").............I didn't like this especially when I recieved my 80 with a bad center main bearing at 10K..lasted till 20K but was always noisy and pestered the crap out of me....no way to know what caused it.......... so I enlarged the oil hole in the three roller bearings 15 percent or so....50 to 60 thou if I remember right....still holding in there after 50K or so on the replacement crank............plus I planned to rob a bit of pressure for the intake valve oilers..........I guess elephant feet work too but with the cam slinging most of the oil forward and the dam behind the cam I perfered the oilers....very quiet.....and there was no damage to the valve tips the last time I looked.....may do both later.......xsjohn
 
- valve adjusters...elephant feet

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Another purpose for the sump filter is to protect the engine when the side screen filter bypass opens, which it does virtually every time you start in cold weather and let the revs go above 2000 before the engine is completely warmed up.

That is also what rips a hole in the sump filter. Overreving at low temperatures.
 
I've read about the originals always tearing up and Mikes XS with issues as well. When I drop the sump what's the best fix to insure it reliable? Where I live it is no concern reving while cold which I wouldn't do anyway.
 
gentlemanjim,

Well, I changed the sump filter on my '78 when I got it in '96. I installed an oil pressure gage at the same time and always kept the pressure below 12 PSI during warm up. I inspected the filter a couple of times over the years, but it is still good. It was an original Yamaha before the reinforced version was available. That's 14 years and 60,000 miles ago. That's reliable.

So, from my point of view the best way to keep it reliable is to install an oil pressure gage and/or keep the revs below 2,000 until the engine is completely warmed up.

With the oil pressure gage, I can even see the pressure climb up again when I start out in cold weather even after I waited for it to drop. This is caused by the cooling effect of the cold air once the bike is in motion. So, I use the oil pressure gage as a shift point until the pressure goes back down.
 
Keeping mind an oz. of prevention is worth a pound of cure(Thanks Pete) the affected area can be covered in epoxy(xsjohn where's your pic) or there are bolt on covers. I believe inxs has a photo of his in the tech tips.
 
hey guys great info! i was wondering is it easy to replace/ clean the sump filter? and if so how do i get to it? pics or explanation would be appreciated! im new at this and just dont know where the bots are to take the sump out.
Thanks guys!
 
hey guys great info! i was wondering is it easy to replace/ clean the sump filter? and if so how do i get to it? pics or explanation would be appreciated! im new at this and just dont know where the bots are to take the sump out.
Thanks guys!

Look on the bottom of the engine. There are 2 large bolts (drain plugs), 27 mm if I remember correctly. Remove those 2 drain plugs and drain the black nasty oil. Look around the front drain plug area. You will see 6 small bolt heads. Use a 10 mm socket and remove those 6 bolts. The sump plate/filter can now be lowered. It may be hard to get off if the PO used some super sticky sealant.

Pictures in our "Tech" section.

When replacing, don't use any sealant, clean the surfaces well, and use a paper gasket. Be sure to only use 7 ft-lbs torque on the 6 small bolts. The large drain plugs need a good gasket and I use 40 ft-lbs on those bad boys.
 
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It's in the tech section and about 20 threads
with the twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one,

No really I could review, but search on here for sump filter again.
 
Hey we always like to see/hear how yours looks when you pull it. Prepare to spend some quality time on your back with a razor blade cleaning gasket off the bottom of the engine!
 
oh yeah ill let you know. what do you mean like the gasket will be ruined? if so can i buy a new one? anyone got a link
Thanks
 
Yeah wrecked gasket is common, go spend some drool time at MikesXS or if you are into service and quality 650 Central. Odds are you will be doing something with the torn screen too.
 
It's in the tech section and about 20 threads
with the twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one,

No really I could review, but search on here for sump filter again.
I love your reference to "Alice's Restaurant"
 
hey so i got the other oil filter out finally, but the sump cover WONT come out. i took the 6 bolts out. the cover is around the drain plug to the front of the bike if im not mistaken.. but wow is that thing on tight. im using a soft rubber hammer but it wont budge. any suggestions? i tried it with the drain plug out and in, does it make a diff?
 
If you have all the bolts out, use a soft drift like a hard wood, and just tap away. If you have a pry that is small and fine enough, try that, just be gentle -it's alluminium
 
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