A trick I have not tried.... Heat the parts then drip candle wax at the joint, cooling will draw the wax in.
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Swingarm Bolt
- Thread starter BowlingSS
- Start date
Most likely the bolt is rusted to the sleeve. Heating the swing arm won't do much good as you have the swing arm and bushing between you and the sleeve. As Gary pointed out the frame needs to be braced well and hose it all down with penetrating fluid. I've not yet seen one ware the bolt was stuck to the frame.
Did anyone mention time and patience is your friend?
Soaking with PB.
Still does not move any.
I know this thread is geared up about the removal of a stuck/rusted swinging arm pivot bolt but, the lesson to be learned here is prevention is better than a cure. If only YAMAHA had put a bit of lubricant in there on assembly.
Same thing with complete bikes, it only takes two bobs worth of Diesel in a squirter bottle.
Diesel is a very good penetrant and rust preventer.
I fear you may need to cut through between the frame and swinging arm with a 1mm disc, or drill out from both ends to the diameter of the bolt. Wear steel toecap boots in case it falls out.
Same thing with complete bikes, it only takes two bobs worth of Diesel in a squirter bottle.
Diesel is a very good penetrant and rust preventer.
I fear you may need to cut through between the frame and swinging arm with a 1mm disc, or drill out from both ends to the diameter of the bolt. Wear steel toecap boots in case it falls out.
Agreed. I was thinking much the same thing about cars. We have a 2011 Subaru Forester that needs control arm bushings. Looked like a simple job. A friend who is a tech at a Subaru dealer warned me that I shouldn’t try to remove the ball joint when replacing the control arm / bushings. Asked why and he said the pinch bolt in the steering knuckle, that holds the ball joint in place, will break off if I try to remove it. He said they get rusted in there and never come out without a major fight. So I was thinking, if that’s an ongoing problem with every Forester sold, what wouldn’t the factory apply a bit of anti seize on that bolt or when the car is in for it’s first oil change, why can’t the tech pop out the bolt and lube it, thereby eliminating a major headache for the future. It would take the tech no more than 5 min total to do both sides. Wishful thinking I guess.
Without describing what you have now tried....................
AUTOMAN
XS650 Addict
Before beating and bending and butchering.
Muriatic acid like 2 of us said.
Geee...what's the best penetrant?
cliff
ps
You did take the zerk out beforehand?
Muriatic acid like 2 of us said.
Geee...what's the best penetrant?
cliff
ps
You did take the zerk out beforehand?
The bolt was welded to the sleeve. I cut the bolt off. Swingarm is ok but still can not get the bolt off the sleeve. Just ordered a new sleeve. What a job. Now I am painting the frame and Swingarm. Getting other items ready to start putting back together.. I still need two chrome covers that go over the rubber front fork boots. Anyone have one?
If that's a 16mm bolt, some 5/8" precision ground shaft will work. I did this for a GS550E back in the mid 90's. I ran a fine thread 5/8" die on both ends and installed some stover lock nuts and washers. Worked a treat, and with the pivot cover caps, they were inconspicuous. There is very little side thrust on that shaft..
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Still waiting on the chrome fork covers and the swingarm bushing. Getting there.
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Still waiting on the swingarm bushing. USPS has it stuck in another city. Getting there on this one.
