TCI Replacement 2020 It Works

Bet I know what...

 

Shhh....it's a secret....lol

 

I remember sumpin' you bought a while back.... mums the word.

 

No fair keeping secrets.

 

Well, i finished my testing on the gy6 ignition today and unfortunately the results were poor. This CDI just doesn't advance. The system could be useable if I wanted to switch between no advance and full advance, like the old Harleys and Indians, but I'm looking for something better. I have the Suzuki TCI that I'll try next but that won't happen before January. For now, here's the fail video.

 

Bummer.

 

I think my problem lies in the voltage generated by the SR500 pickup. The Yamaha high speed pickup coil is 15 ohms. The Honda is 150 ohms. There's likely to be different outputs from these coils, probably different enough that the Honda cdi won't work properly. I already have the Suzuki gn250 tci parts and I'll try them but I kind of expect similar results.

 

Someone asked what advance Boyer ignition run. It’s my understanding, after years of Boyer use and reading their info. The early systems MK3/4 non digital, Black box is set at full advance for your particular engine say 38deg.
The Hall effect fires the amplifier slower as the engine speed decreases, ie nearer TDC to the amount 10 deg. As this is camshaft driven it’s 20 deg crank, so full advance is 38deg minus 20deg equals 18 deg at idle. If you strobe an early Boyer system it’s a bit like a switch.
The later systems are said to have microprocessors in the amplifier to even out the advance curve in 50rpm increments, but still use the same trigger, they are not programmable by joe public.
A great system but not perfect. Having said that I use them on most of my bikes.
My older bikes with points, have the ignition set, points just opening at TDC, but set as such if you then strobe it it runs 6 to 10 deg.

 

I'm learning as I go. Most of my electrical knowledge centers around the "don't let the smoke out" theory.

 

Kojack, you must be a good auto electrician judging by the fact you have not yet broken the seal on that harness smoke bottle...

 

I have been reading about the Micro-controllers in the Gonzo box. And in general

The controller is in essence a small computer CPU and is working with very small current and voltages
And is then as it seems sensitive.
We had a discussion of " Dirty signals "

https://www.digikey.se/en/articles/protecting-inputs-in-digital-electronics

So if there is a signal in it needs to be of the right value
but it also needs to be " Filtered " And in the right manner .So not important aspects are filtered out

I don't know these things but it looks as electronic development
with components to design

By a chance I had a Arduino Uno clone at home and for them there exists rpm measuring components ---don't know more right now

 

I don't have the damn installation tool.

 

This is the sr500 stator. According to Rex's Speed Shop and the wiring diagram the 90 is the low speed pulser, the 15 is the high speed pulser, the 330 is the the low speed source coil and the 5 is the high speed source coil. Although my source coils tested in range I went with a DC CDI to eliminate that possible problem and hopefully make it easier to start. It seemed to work well. Using the low speed pulser the timing was right on the proper mark for idle speed. Switching to the high speed pulser was giving me around 35 degrees advance although it didn't look as steady. I was working outside on a sunny day and it was tough to see the mark. I've thought about running the bike like this and just switching between retarded and advanced timing like the old bikes did, only electrically. For now the bike is nowhere near roadworthy and my dance card has been pretty full lately. Thanks a bunch for the info on the GY6 CDIs. I kept reading conflicting reports on whether they advance or not. I now have a Gonzo unit that I'll try out when I get some more shop time.