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Tear down, fix up, build something new. The R/R/R

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Bentwrench, Oct 7, 2019.

  1. Yeah, it's been a while.

    But my kids have grown up, and I finally have time to work on my 1978 SE. I feel like she's been around for a while, and she still runs, but there's just something about her that I'd like to spruce up.

    Goals for her are hazy (which is dangerous, I know), but they're also modest. New paint. Upgrade brakes and suspension. She already has a Pamco ignition, and good electrics. But when I got her, the stock exhaust was rotted completely through, and then repaired with body filler.

    So it's an R/R/R project. Remove, Repair, Replace. And I'd be pretty happy if the final version looked at all like the beauty from this thread: http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-79-street-tracker-build.5734/
  2. I started in earnest last weekend. Removed the rear end to check the swing arm bearings.

    I think the right move is to remove the engine and then the front forks. It will be easier to move things around, work on a second part of the bike when parts are on order, and I’d like to refresh the head anyway.

    the front forks will be interesting to open up. The dust boots are being held together with electrical tape...


    Attached Files:

  3. Machine

    Machine Race the wind Top Contributor

    Hello and great to follow your thread.
    Thoughts on this. If you are intending to remove both the engine and forks perhaps you should go all the way into the steering stem bearings now.?
    With the whole front end removed first it would be easier to flop the frame over on it’s side for the engine removal (wrestling)
  4. That's a thought... maybe replace the rear swingarm so I have two wheels again. Lay the bike down to remove the engine, and then take off the suspension. Is that what you're suggesting?
    MaxPete likes this.
  5. Machine

    Machine Race the wind Top Contributor

    No, I’m thinking bass awkwards that. Suspension fully off first.
    Frame and engine together can be lowered to a rug or padding for a side flop and engine removal. Done it alone myself.
  6. Gotcha. I like it.
    Now to get this pivot tube out...
    MaxPete, Machine and gggGary like this.
  7. Machine

    Machine Race the wind Top Contributor

    Yes, pivot tube. Spray lube and a brass pusher. Try to not damage the ends. :thumbsup:
    MaxPete and Bentwrench like this.
  8. Raymondo

    Raymondo XS650 owner, fettler, setting out on a journey XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Hi Benchwrench, I had not seen the thread you pointed to, that's a good one as a target for your bike. Cheers, Raymond
  9. Top tip! The rear axle OD is just barely larger than the pivot shaft ID. Pushed it right out. Lots of grease in there, which is nice.

    time to cut out the old plastic bushings.

    Last edited: Oct 8, 2019
    Machine likes this.
  10. lakeview

    lakeview XS650 Guru XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    Hi Bentwrench, nice to see another southern Ontarion on the forum.
    I work alone as well and laying the bike down to remove/reinstall the motor usually goes easier than muscling it in upright. The last time I installed a motor I laid it on the right side so it was easy to rotate to fit into the frame. There may be a thread or two about this.......
    Bentwrench likes this.
  11. What a PITA. First one came out with a drift. This one needed a little more persuasion.

    Machine likes this.
  12. Machine

    Machine Race the wind Top Contributor

    We’re they “bad” ? I left mine alone and greased em .
    lakeview likes this.
  13. You know, it's a good question. There was only a millimeter or two of play in the swingarm, but I'm hoping that this will be a bike I'll ride for a long, long time. So no, they weren't bad. Yes, they are now. And I'm okay with that.
    gggGary and Machine like this.
  14. lakeview

    lakeview XS650 Guru XS650.com Supporter Top Contributor

    There are a couple threads on putting in the brass bushings. Some measuring before installation saves grief later.
    Freezing the bushings and heating the s/a helps, but I found that doing one side at a time allows you to maintain some thermal advantage. Otherwise both sides get cold before they are all the way in.
    Machine and Bentwrench like this.
  15. Machine

    Machine Race the wind Top Contributor

    Nice work you are doing. Extra effort will pay off for the long run :thumbsup:
    Bentwrench likes this.
  16. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

    You will want to add a better way to grease your new bearings. They are designed to get their grease delivered to the rear of the bushing, not midway down the side like the originals. There are a couple steps you can take to insure this. First is installing a grease fitting at the bottom center of the arm .....


    Second would be to add a couple more grease exit holes to the center of your pivot tube (red arrows) .....




    These will allow grease to get pumped into the center of the arm and eventually reach the backs of the new bushings, besides just trying to come out midway down the sides of them .....

  17. Slower day today. I have to travel next week, so I want to check the steering head bearings and order parts if required while I'm away.

    But instead I started removing foot pegs, pedals, and parts off the rear. I only had about 30 minutes, and taking the front end apart seemed like it would take more time than that...
    lakeview and gggGary like this.
  18. I can tell when I turn the steering stem by hand that these bearings are shot. I can practically hear them grinding...

  19. 1E7108F8-856D-4203-9B5B-49B7CCEBBDEA.jpeg

    Wow! I am incredibly surprised!

    So, why would roller bearings be notchy? When I turn the steering stem, it definitely wants to be straight and rattled through that centre alignment.

    Also, I have no idea why this picture is sideways...
  20. Machine

    Machine Race the wind Top Contributor

    That is a surprise ! How do the races look ? If there is that notchy feeling it is likely to be from the races. If those bearings were not set correctly either too loose or too tight the races could be damaged.
    Race pic ?
    Way to dig all the way there by the way
    Jim likes this.

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