Tear down, fix up, build something new. The R/R/R

Upper and lower seem properly seated and smooth.

And the bearings seem good.

Should there be spacers? And is there a way to tell that the top race was put in the top and not the bottom (and vice versa?)
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Should there be spacers? And is there a way to tell that the top race was put in the top and not the bottom (and vice versa?)
No spacers. If I remember correctly, races were idiot proof. Either both the same... or they wouldn't fit the other way. Can't remember which.
 
Not the races, the bearing itself. Top bearing has a smaller center hole and won't fit on the bottom of the neck. According to this chart, the top race is thicker .....

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I do see some lines on that bottom race. These tapered bearings don't wear out nearly as fast as the original loose ball set-up, but they can wear, especially if run too tight.
 
I've seen very light lines like that on bearing races before and the bearings were perfectly alright. Head races are semi-static and you normally see light polishing where the rollers sit. If there are indentations deep enough to feel with a fingertip, definitely replace. But I'd second Jim's suggestion - wash them, give them a spin - it might just be some grit in there.
 
You will damage them getting them off, so clean them.in place. A bit more difficult to pack them with grease after, not imposible.
 
While apart, you may want to install a grease fitting in the neck. Then you can keep the bearings greased without having to take it apart. You can put it on either side. Choose the side with less cables and wiring in the way. On my Special, that was the left side, on my Standard the right .....

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You can also fit a length of vinyl tubing on the stem above the bottom bearing as a "grease saver". This will cut down on the amount of grease you need to pump into the neck to fill it .....

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Yours will need to be shorter than the one above. You'll need to keep it below the notch in the side of the stem for the fork lock, but it will still help. One more thing - you'll need to block off the bottom of the stem or the grease you pump in will fall out there. An old wine bottle cork will do the trick.
 
Cleaned up the bearings, they're as good as new. The top bearing did have grit in it.

So shopping list only requires stuff for the rear (and one grease fitting for the neck.)
 
And the wiring harness is off. I feel like I made a mistake not taking more pictures while disconnecting all the plugs... but I'm somewhat colour blind, so I'm not sure it would have helped anyway.

Next step: remove carbs, and remove engine.
 
Many of the plugs are differently shaped which is a big help. When hooking up, shine lots of light into the headlight bucket to discern brown and chocolate brown, etc.
 
My tip for removing the carbs - wrap rag around the frame tube, held with masking tape. Unless you intend to strip and repaint the frame. Taking the nut off the cam-chain tensioner gives a little bit more wriggle room for pulling them out.

The engine is heavy. Plenty advice on here for removal methods.
 
I know about the engine. I have a spare.

I got this bike from an inveterate tinkerer with an anxiety disorder. I have a spare engine, spare wheels, brake discs and calipers, wiring harness, shocks, cables, handlebars, controls... I'll be looking today to see if I have a left hand front caliber to see if I can run a double front brake.
 
I got this bike from an inveterate tinkerer with an anxiety disorder. I have a spare engine, spare wheels, brake discs and calipers, wiring harness, shocks, cables, handlebars, controls... I'll be looking today to see if I have a left hand front caliber to see if I can run a double front brake.
Aah , been holding out on us lol.
Awesome news !
 
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