Things I Learned Today

[pjc]

Subject: 1980 XS650SG
Parts: MikesXS; sump oil filter, sump gasket, main oil filter (the smaller one on side), gaskets for the main filter.
What I experienced:
As I've read here, the sump oil filter had a hole where a jet of flowing oil impinges the filter. I've seen a thread here where a crafty guy made a shield of thin copper. I'll do the same (using brass sheet) next service of this filter. That will happen sooner than later as I found a black plastic sliver that I suspect is from cam chain guide. For now I washed the sump filter plate, cleaned case & plate gasket surfaces. Fastening the 3, M6 screws for the filter told me it's easy to crush the filter. Not knowing if there is a target torque value for these screws I made them 40 lb-in, that didn't crush filter too much. Typical M6 torque of 80 lb-in, no way. Pretty soft bolted joint. MikesXS gasket fit ok, but had a bow where the long sides were skewed out. Had to try and tuck the edges in while snugging the 6, M6 screws. Target torque for these 6 screws was 80 lb-in. Five were fine, but one felt mushy, like case threads stripping (no signs of threaded hole damage when I took it apart). I read here that these screws might be torque limiting screws where the head will twist off instead of stripping case threaded holes. Will see what this looks like next sump plate removal.

The main filter had small black plastic particles (maybe chain guide?), and some steel bits. I probably should check the oil pump gerotor, etc. as there was no metal on the sump drain plug magnet. When assembling the filter into the cavity I found it easy to crush the filter. I assume no torque value for this fastener, just snug tight. The M6 shcs were made to 80 lb-in.

Point of this thread is comment from members regarding the filter fastener tightness. An opinion of MikesXS filters, gaskets good too.

 

[5twins]

If the gaskets you speak of are the green colored ones (Athena brand I think), I think they work just fine. The two on the smaller side filter hardly ever need to be changed, they last darn near forever. Yes, I install fresh ones at the first oil change I do but after that, they rarely get (or need to be) changed again. The larger one on the bottom sump plate generally gives me near a half dozen uses before it starts leaking and needs to be changed. I use no sealer on any of these, I just oil them with motor oil. That allows them to come apart without tearing and then they can be reused.

For the sump filter mounting bolts, I tighten them just a little past where the split ring lock washer flattens out. I don't use a torque wrench, I just do it by "feel".

 

[pjc]

Thanks for the advice for the sump filter screws 5twins. I did wet the gasket surfaces with grease. I recall you posting in one of the topics here that you wet gasket surfaces w/oil, so I did the same. Other bikes I assembled dry, usually tore the gaskets next time I took apart. Good tip.

 

[5twins]

I actually soak the gaskets for 5 or 10 minutes with oil before install. I lay them on some newspaper, brush motor oil on both sides, and let it soak in for a bit. Besides making them come off easy in the future, I think it helps them seal better. They "puff up" a little from soaking the oil in and I think that's what helps them seal better.

But, I don't oil every single gasket on the bike. There are a couple I install dry and with a little sealer. Those would be the ones on the intake manifolds and the alt. cover. Proper intake gaskets are quite thick (about 1/8") and do a pretty good job of sealing on their own. But, sometimes they get stuck to the motor and they're tough to clean off. So, I apply a ring of sealer between the gasket and the manifold, basically gluing it to the manifold so it comes off with it anytime it's removed. I don't coat the whole surface of the gasket, I just apply a small, continuous ring around it. I do the same with the alt. cover gasket, I "glue" it to the cover so it comes off with it. I brush the engine side of the gasket with anti-seize. I also anti-seize the cover's locating dowels and the holes they fit into. They're just plain steel and tend to get rusty. Even though the cover and case are aluminum, that rust can still make the dowels stick.