rude
XS650 Addict
excellent job!
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"Thor's Hammer" Australian XS650 Bobber Build
- Thread starter inmotionphotog
- Start date
wacko
XS650 Addict
Will you be welding the mounting arm to the frame? Or how do you keep it from rotating down?
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
Thanks Rude!
G'day wacko.
Yep, it'll be welded properly once I've done a mock up with the seat in the final position and engine installed.
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
icemanj650
icemanj
hey brother,i had the same idea about a tank.looked forever no luck,found a tank off of a 2005 johnny pag 250 .thats a bike builder that specializes in 250 bikes.he's on the net.took 4'' off the back of the tank set it on my 650 it looked and fit perfect without a lot of work.just welded up the back,tested it and done.check them out .Iceman
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
Saturday, 10 December 2011 - Trial butt test!
I managed to do a trial butt test for the first time today!
I finally tacked the seat and associated various bungs and brackets today upon the chassis, and allowed myself to test fit my ass upon it.
To say it was a milestone to hop upon what will resemble the layout of my baby is an understatement.
Next step will be to tack on the tank and fender bungs over the next couple of weeks.
Here's a few progress pics that also show the brake pivot and linkage arrangement tacked up and attached as well.
DSC_0762 copy b by inmotionphotography
DSC_0763 copy b by inmotionphotography
DSC_0764_1 copy b
DSC_0769 copy b
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
I managed to do a trial butt test for the first time today!
I finally tacked the seat and associated various bungs and brackets today upon the chassis, and allowed myself to test fit my ass upon it.
To say it was a milestone to hop upon what will resemble the layout of my baby is an understatement.
Next step will be to tack on the tank and fender bungs over the next couple of weeks.
Here's a few progress pics that also show the brake pivot and linkage arrangement tacked up and attached as well.
DSC_0762 copy b by inmotionphotography
DSC_0763 copy b by inmotionphotography
DSC_0764_1 copy b
DSC_0769 copy b
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Last edited:
Cornish Pixie
Shiny obsessive
As always, this build is shaping up to be a quality piece of work. Loving the "workshop" facilities - much respect for having your shed set up to look like somebodys apartment 
Tack427
XS650 Addict
I love seeing pictures of peoples build inside their houses. When I was in my teens I build a Ford engine in my fathers living room.
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
As always, this build is shaping up to be a quality piece of work. Loving the "workshop" facilities - much respect for having your shed set up to look like somebodys apartment
Thanks for the great feedback Cornish Pixie! I either have the cleanest workshop or untidiest living room!
It's always fun having to clean up after every time I wrench on it. BTW, I've seen your thread showing your bike coming back to life, nice one!
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
Tuesday, 13 December 2011 - Brake light switch solution
One of the details that had been bugging me for a few days, was the clean and effective solution to mounting the Lowbrow Customs brake light switch upon the chassis.
It was important that it integrated well with the bike whilst offering the flexibility of fine tuning it to work perfectly every time I used the rear brake pedal.
The solution was simple and staring me in the face the whole time. I attached a hose clamp to the tubular cross member, then thread a cable tie through the switch mount hole and clamp. I used a heavier duty spring to mount it to the rear bolt hole upon the brake pivot that I knocked up. I plan on welding on a hex nut on the back as well.
I now have the ability to simply loosen the clamp a small amount to allow it to rotate. The rotation of the clamp allows it to loosen or tighten the switch assembly, which in turn affects the sensitivity of the micro switch.
After testing it with the multimeter, I now have a switch that activates at the slightest tap of the brake pedal, whilst being mostly unseen and clean in appearance.
The other great benefit of having it in this location is the need to weld on permanent tabs has been eliminated. I also have the ability to hide the wiring neatly too!
large_336_black-universal-brake-light-switch-photo-1
DSC_0784 b
DSC_0786 b
DSC_0787 b
DSC_0789 b
DSC_0795 b
DSC_0796 b
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
One of the details that had been bugging me for a few days, was the clean and effective solution to mounting the Lowbrow Customs brake light switch upon the chassis.
It was important that it integrated well with the bike whilst offering the flexibility of fine tuning it to work perfectly every time I used the rear brake pedal.
The solution was simple and staring me in the face the whole time. I attached a hose clamp to the tubular cross member, then thread a cable tie through the switch mount hole and clamp. I used a heavier duty spring to mount it to the rear bolt hole upon the brake pivot that I knocked up. I plan on welding on a hex nut on the back as well.
I now have the ability to simply loosen the clamp a small amount to allow it to rotate. The rotation of the clamp allows it to loosen or tighten the switch assembly, which in turn affects the sensitivity of the micro switch.
After testing it with the multimeter, I now have a switch that activates at the slightest tap of the brake pedal, whilst being mostly unseen and clean in appearance.
The other great benefit of having it in this location is the need to weld on permanent tabs has been eliminated. I also have the ability to hide the wiring neatly too!
large_336_black-universal-brake-light-switch-photo-1
DSC_0784 b
DSC_0786 b
DSC_0787 b
DSC_0789 b
DSC_0795 b
DSC_0796 b
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Last edited:
Wicked build man! Love the name as Thor happens to be my middle name.
I don't think i would trust that cable tie sideways like that on your rear brake light switch. Seems to me that the constant pulling would cut the tie on the rad clamp in no time. Could you try a smaller spring on the top (or cut down the on you got) then have the switch strapped around the frame with some space in between? That way it would pull in a straight line. Ideally a split style clamp on the frame that could be adjusted the same way you described. Just an idea friend.
I don't think i would trust that cable tie sideways like that on your rear brake light switch. Seems to me that the constant pulling would cut the tie on the rad clamp in no time. Could you try a smaller spring on the top (or cut down the on you got) then have the switch strapped around the frame with some space in between? That way it would pull in a straight line. Ideally a split style clamp on the frame that could be adjusted the same way you described. Just an idea friend.
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
G'day Torotor.
Thanks for the great feedback mate.
You're right about the plastic cable tie being a bit dodgy. I'll need to find something more durable that will allow me to mount the switch in the same fashion. The actual mechanism works really well and is easily adjustable in this configuration.
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Thanks for the great feedback mate.
You're right about the plastic cable tie being a bit dodgy. I'll need to find something more durable that will allow me to mount the switch in the same fashion. The actual mechanism works really well and is easily adjustable in this configuration.
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
Sunday, 18 December 2011 - Muffler mounting
This weekend I finally designed and knocked up brackets for the Dunstall style mufflers that I am running.
I temporarily clamped them to the chassis to ensure that my bracket measurements managed to clear the foot pegs, brake pedal articulation and kick stand. They're pretty much in the exact spot that I intend to permanently attach them.
They'll be satin black ceramic coated, whilst the header tubes will be 45mm O/D covered in black header wrap.
Old school baby!
DSC_0858 copy copy copy copy
DSC_0838 copy copy copy
DSC_0859 copy b
DSC_0860 copy b
DSC_0864 copy b
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
This weekend I finally designed and knocked up brackets for the Dunstall style mufflers that I am running.
I temporarily clamped them to the chassis to ensure that my bracket measurements managed to clear the foot pegs, brake pedal articulation and kick stand. They're pretty much in the exact spot that I intend to permanently attach them.
They'll be satin black ceramic coated, whilst the header tubes will be 45mm O/D covered in black header wrap.
Old school baby!
DSC_0858 copy copy copy copy
DSC_0838 copy copy copy
DSC_0859 copy b
DSC_0860 copy b
DSC_0864 copy b
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Last edited:
Cornish Pixie
Shiny obsessive
If you are going to stick with this method of mounting, maybe switch to a stainless cable tie? Also maybe check out Mikalor hose clamps ( http://www.mikalor.co/mikalor-gold-clamps ) to replace the jubilee clip, Mikalor's are much tidier in appearance and are available in a range of styles including stainless and gold.
Silencers look sweet and are nicely different from what most people are doing on this type of build
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
These are very much a cleaner solution and definitely on the shopping list. This in conjunction with the steel tie, would be strong, functional and look great!
Silencers look sweet and are nicely different from what most people are doing on this type of build
Thanks mate, however I was inspired by this beauty from Motoshop Tonouchi.
http://www.bikeexif.com/yamaha-xs650-bobber
yamaha-xs650-bobber
yamaha-xs650-bobber-3
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Last edited:
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
Monday, 26 December 2011 - It's a blast!
One of the things that I wanted to do was give the ends of the grips a point of difference.
Since there are already some brass and copper accents upon the scoot, some shotgun shells would be pretty cool.
So today I managed to fit some spent shotgun shells to my grips today as well as making suitable holes in the drag bar to hide the wiring from the switch assemblies.
DSC_0879 copy b
DSC_0892 copy b
DSC_0911 b.JPG
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
One of the things that I wanted to do was give the ends of the grips a point of difference.
Since there are already some brass and copper accents upon the scoot, some shotgun shells would be pretty cool.
So today I managed to fit some spent shotgun shells to my grips today as well as making suitable holes in the drag bar to hide the wiring from the switch assemblies.
DSC_0879 copy b
DSC_0892 copy b
DSC_0911 b.JPG
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Last edited:
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
Wednesday, 28 December 2011 - Jug mount
Now is the time to focus on the electrics for the bike and making the mount for the milk jug.
I knocked up a solution that will house the battery, ignition switch, a couple of fused relays and the rectifier.
The battery I plan on using (4s3p A123) is tiny and powerful enough to run the starter motor, lights, etc. This will be located within the urn.
4S3Plarge
Here's a video of a similar version in action.
Here's some pics of the mocked up assembly showing the rectifier in position. It should still be able to get good air flow, whilst being protected (only just) by the chassis rails beneath the bike.
DSC_0929 b.JPG
DSC_0916 b.JPG
DSC_0925 b.JPG
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Now is the time to focus on the electrics for the bike and making the mount for the milk jug.
I knocked up a solution that will house the battery, ignition switch, a couple of fused relays and the rectifier.
The battery I plan on using (4s3p A123) is tiny and powerful enough to run the starter motor, lights, etc. This will be located within the urn.
4S3Plarge
Here's a video of a similar version in action.
Here's some pics of the mocked up assembly showing the rectifier in position. It should still be able to get good air flow, whilst being protected (only just) by the chassis rails beneath the bike.
DSC_0929 b.JPG
DSC_0916 b.JPG
DSC_0925 b.JPG
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
Why not drill a hole through the arm and into the angle in which to drive a drift pin. That would allow removal if necessary for future repairs or modifications.
inmotionphotog
XS650 Addict
G'day Bill.
The arms will be welded to the angle only, with bolts passing through into the exhaust mount threads.
The assembly will easily be removable for the motor to get dropped in and out.
I'm not sure what a drift pin is though?
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
The arms will be welded to the angle only, with bolts passing through into the exhaust mount threads.
The assembly will easily be removable for the motor to get dropped in and out.
I'm not sure what a drift pin is though?
Cheers
Steve
http://inmotionphotogxs650.blogspot.com/
A drift pin looks like a hollow rod with a tiny slot along one side. It's made of very hard spring steel and it compresses slightly as it's driven into a hole but expands just enough so that it holds tightly. If the drift pin is sized correctly to the hole then it won't come out unless you want it out.
You would need one that is about 1/8" diameter which would be a lot less intrusive than even the best of welds.
But welding to the angle works too.
You would need one that is about 1/8" diameter which would be a lot less intrusive than even the best of welds.
But welding to the angle works too.
