ticky noise at reassembly, and hallow kicks

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Okay guys I could really use some help here. I have a 1980 g series, and about a month ago I decided to do a top end rebuild, ( this is my first ever experience with something like it.) While doing so I decided to get a valve job done, bored out cyclinders, new hoos racing 700 cc JE pistons, and shell 1 cam. (for fun I also ditched the starter motor with the 89cents freeze plug, fit in nice and tight.) Everything seemed great, got new base and head gaskets, Today I saw a thread that a guys did his valve adjustments on all years at .0025 for the intake, and .006 for the exhaust. So this I did. the nitch in my cam was vertical with my rotor set at tdc, when my chain was placed back on. and anyways, put it all back together. when I went to kick it over, I kept on getting this whispy empty hallow kick, and it wouldnt start up, but every couple revolutions it would kick almost like normal. Then out of the blue it started, but it if you listen closely to the values, they sounded very clicky, and ticky.:wtf: and the exhaust also did not sound right. I am guessing something is off in my timing, or in my valves, not sure what. But definitely doesn't sounds right. also only starts up if I want to pogo stick my kick for a few min. :mad:

I have no idea what to do :shrug:

I've also heard I should lube up my valves and cam a good amount, is this necessary??

I attached a video below that you guys can listen to and see the bike run. Doesn't sound pretty. but will help hopefully figure out what I screwed up. please help! thanks ya'll.


for some reason I couldn't attach this video please just copy and past the URL above to see video. Thank you again.
 
Looks like your clutch is slipping. Try a readjustment there.

For stock cams, valve lash of 0.0025" and 0.0060" is what the later '80-up guys are doing.
Older bikes with stock cams use 0.003" and 0.006".
What's called-out for your Shell 1 cam?

Are you getting oil to the top end?
 
you could be right on the clutch I was messing with it and forgot to readjust, I will do that, is that what causes the hallow kicks??

And yes I also learned today that the int .006 and the ex. .012 are the right specs for my new cam. I will fix that once I get a chance. Hopefully these two things fix it. But I still feel like something is funny with the timing. Also I'm not sure how to check is oil is getting to the top end. before dissesembly it defniantly was. how do I check??

as far as the crankshaft, I did a top end rebuild only, I didn't even break my camchain, just slipped it off, and I'm guessing the the chain never cam of the crankshaft. also yes I used the tdc mark on the rotor stator assembly, and the nitch on the cam as reference, also the master link on my cam chain is one link to the right of the nitch just as it should, and as I have learned it should be. Althought when I took it apart the master link as about 4 links off from the nitch in the cam, which is weird because this should not be the case, but bike ran fine then.

if you have any other ideas anything helps, thanks a ton.

also what do you guys say about lubing the valves and camshaft? I didn't really do that, just a bit of oil was all.

Thanks
 
I was having the same problem with kicking my bike over.

Adjusted the clutch lever and now it kicks over every time. (Check the clutch boss too if you aren't sure/haven't messed with it).
 
you could be right on the clutch I was messing with it and forgot to readjust, I will do that, is that what causes the hallow kicks??

And yes I also learned today that the int .006 and the ex. .012 are the right specs for my new cam. I will fix that once I get a chance. Hopefully these two things fix it. But I still feel like something is funny with the timing. Also I'm not sure how to check is oil is getting to the top end. before dissesembly it defniantly was. how do I check??

as far as the crankshaft, I did a top end rebuild only, I didn't even break my camchain, just slipped it off, and I'm guessing the the chain never cam of the crankshaft. also yes I used the tdc mark on the rotor stator assembly, and the nitch on the cam as reference, also the master link on my cam chain is one link to the right of the nitch just as it should, and as I have learned it should be. Althought when I took it apart the master link as about 4 links off from the nitch in the cam, which is weird because this should not be the case, but bike ran fine then.

if you have any other ideas anything helps, thanks a ton.

also what do you guys say about lubing the valves and camshaft? I didn't really do that, just a bit of oil was all.

Thanks

The timing of the crankshaft and the camshaft is not done with just 2 reference marks. Its done with 3 reference marks: (Its in the Haynes Manual)
1) TDC (crank)
2) Notch on camshaft
3) Punch mark on camshaft



The master link can be at any location, its got nothing to do with the notch on the camshaft.
 
okay will do thanks, and when you say clutch boss are you taking about what is under the little cover on the clutch case? (left side case of engine)

and I did not notice the punch mark on mine, but in what position should it be in? and how do I know?

Thanks
 
Check that u have oil pressure by taking off the left rear tapper cover, and start it.you will know real quick
 
okay will do thanks, and when you say clutch boss are you taking about what is under the little cover on the clutch case? (left side case of engine)


Yep. I started with the clutch lever just because it's easier to get to and the freeplay is easier to check, and lucked out that that was the problem.
 
okay will do thanks, and when you say clutch boss are you taking about what is under the little cover on the clutch case? (left side case of engine)

and I did not notice the punch mark on mine, but in what position should it be in? and how do I know?

Thanks

The punch mark must be exactly even with top surface of the head.
How do you know................by looking visually.
There is a picture in the Haynes Manual, page 61.
 
cool cool, thanks a ton guys. so update, i adjust the clutch, and kicks over everytime. I adjusted the valves, to .010 intake, and .006 ex. (ill explain why .010 in a second) and bike sounds a lot better, but There is still a ticking noise coming from the valves which makes me nervous. (So i did .010 because gary hoo (who makes the cam I bought.) told me that .012 int, and .006 ex. are the specs, but that he runs his at .006 for both. now when I went to adjust the front left exhaust, it seems as if the tip was not grinded down enough and the biggest filler gauge I could fit in was the .010, so I set both exhaust the same, at .010, instead of .012 since gary does his at .006 exhuast I figure there is some leway there. )

now weird things that happened...
1. one time gas flooded out of my right cone.... weird.. never happened before.
2. at idle right xhaust is cold, but running.
3. blew a bit of white smoke out of the right exhaust which part of the reason for the rebuild in the first place.

then 4. the obvious ticking noise.

Question, I did not grease the valves or cam. I'm going to try to greese the valves form the covers, is this good enough.

and I didn't grease the cam, is a bit of oil sufficient or should I crack it open again and lube it up??

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
don't put grease in there, use oil. its prolly what you meant, but better safe than sorry. take off your tappet covers, and put the oil you intend to use in something that you can squirt deep into the motor. You can get most of the cam thru those ports. I do this to any thing that's been sitting for a while. (couple years)
 
I have just watched your video you have run it way long enough to get oil to the top, check your filters are not blocked, sump strainer and the finer one in the clutch cover, if you take a tappet cover off it should be fairly wet in there already if it is not you have problems, Halco used to say 0.10 mm exhaust and 0.05 mm inlet, also did you re check your cam timing after fitting the tensioner? you can do this now if you take the cam end covers off the cam is key'd one end and should be vertical when at TDC so no need to dismantle the rocker cover though you will if its out....
 
Okay guys so So it has been a while, and yet my engine is getting oil to the top there is no problem there, It been running decently as of late, but there is still this ticking sound that is driving me crazy, and after close to a tank of gas later I realized that When I did my valve adjustment, I did them backwards( as in I adjusted the valves on the non compression stroke side,) and this I did on both sides. Which makes sense why there was a loud ticking noise. So I went in and fixed that, and also adjusted my cam chain tensioner (before values) (which I was stupid and should have done when I put the whole engine back together. ):banghead:

BUT

now i'm in a huge pickle, because before the bike started up everytime, and now.. wont even run, I can get it started after a good number of kicks but it'll just die at idle, and to make it worse, the loud ticking sound is still in there.

I have honestly no Idea what is up:wtf:. but my only real guess is that when I put my tensioner back on it messed up my alignment a little bit on my cam, and now its all screwy..

My concerns are these...

1. why did it run decently being adjusted opposite of compression stroke??

2. did I screw up my cam lobes or rockers??

3. What the freak do I do haha?

I'm guessing I just need to tear it back down again so I can see whats up with the cam, but if anybody has anything else please help. Thanks guys.
 
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