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Timing Issue

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Shipper, Jul 27, 2020.

  1. Question, should the advance spring all the way back to closed position when forced open and then released without the bike running? If so, it might be my problem.

    Mine seems to snap back on acceleration with the bike running but appears a little lazy when bike is not running.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Are those aftermarket springs on there? Originals are usually black .....

    [​IMG]

    There have been issues reported with some aftermarket springs, as in their tension isn't quite strong enough. You may need to clip a loop off one and make it a little shorter. But only do one to start, that's often enough. But before messing with the springs, is your advance rod well lubed, the bushings it turns in packed with moly grease? .....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If not then I'd do that first before messing with the springs. It may just cure the issue for you.
     
  3. Thanks Twins, will follow your advice and update. They are after market springs but i found originals in my parts collection.
     
  4. Hey Twins,

    This may sound pretty basic to you but I would like to know how you got the kog of the end of that shaft for greasing. As you can see the bearing is in need of moly grease but as I understand your thread, the journal holding the shaft also needs to be greased.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Okay, I got the cog to pop off - no problem. If I push it into the housing slightly, I believe there is enough room to lubricate the bushing. What lubricant would you use? I don't want to dismantle any further as Im getting close to my pay grade knowledge and I'd rather be riding it.
     

    Attached Files:

    Boog likes this.
  6. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    I guess I should have explained things a little better. There's no need to grease that big bearing you see (it runs in oil) or to remove the advance housing. It just happened to be off in that one pic I took. The easiest way to grease the bushings in the cam ends is to pull the advance rod right out. Pull it out the other side with the points cam still on it. Then you'll see there is a bushing on that side too, and both need greasing. The factory shop manual recommends a grease with moly in it. The only "gotcha" when reassembling is that the locating pins for that little disc you removed and the points cam must face in the same direction. The hole for the disc locating pin on the advance side goes all the way through the advance rod. That means it's possible to install the locating pin in two positions that are 180° apart. If you don't match the locating pins side to side, that will throw the timing off 180°.

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    I had some VW CV joint grease on hand, very high moly content, very black and pasty. Years ago one of the bike magazines recommended this stuff as a very good moly grease to use. I happened to have a buddy who was working at a VW dealer at the time and he got me a tube.
     
  9. One more request. Any way you could send me a pic of that tube of VW grease? The VW parts dept. up here says there is different cv greases for inners and outers.

    Thanks Twins
     
    Paul Sutton likes this.
  10. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Unfortunately, that tube is long gone, lol. All I have left is a little bit of the grease in a plastic tub I scraped out of the tube before tossing it. Any moly grease would probably be fine. If you could examine the two kinds available from VW, I'd look to see if the moly content is listed and get the one with more in it.
     

  11. Got some moly grease. Now I cant get one of the pins in the right side of the timing cam?? One slips in no problem, the other just wont take. Any suggestions?
     
  12. 5twins

    5twins XS650 Guru Top Contributor

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    Which pin, the cam or advance rod? If it's the advance rod, maybe you could gently tap an awl into the hole. Maybe it's deformed slightly or has a burr in it.
     
    Paul Sutton likes this.

  13. Its the advance pin. One came out a little stiff but came out ok the other came out slick. Now one will go back no problem but the other just wont take. Still recommend a tap with an awl. Actualy sounds good to me but I cant understand why it differed from removal.
     
  14. May sound really dumb but is it possible they both feed through the same side?
     

  15. Figured it out. Not going to tell you what I was trying to do cause it was too stupid to repeat. Thanks for the help twins.
     
    Paul Sutton and gggGary like this.
  16. So, all back together and running smooth this morning at idle and rev (pouring rain so no test run). However, upon attempting to fine tune timing she won’t start at all now. Been through the process multiple times. Question, the light shows both points open at fire at the same time. That don’t sound right. I know both pistons run in tandem but “open points simultaneous”? Where did I go wrong.
     

  17. OK, followed the forums best I could. Timed right, still no start?!?
     
  18. Took a number of tries but up and running. Had a hard time understanding the design of the timing cam. Aside from blowing a couple of fuses (job for tomorrow) its starting and running better than ever. Thanks for the assistance.
     
    Paul Sutton likes this.

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