Tips on how to enhance handling performance

650hcs

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So, I was wondering what one can do to enhance handling performance on a xs650. What kind of setups and tricks does everyone use.
 
Get some new shocks with progressive springs and new springs and an emulator valve in the forks , get some high quality tires that suit the type of riding you do, lose some weight (off both you and the bike ) , get new swing arm bushings (brass) and steering head bearings ( old bikes usually need those ) better handle bars ( the stock bars suck) solid risers , .... The list is endless ...
 
I realize there are many different setups to chose from and endless posibilities of combinations and factors which in my opinion makes it so much fun trying to dial in a xs. I just want to know what products are out there and what people do to enhace handling. Ill go first, I got a 75xs with clubman bars, stock mid controls, brass swing arm bushings, Shinko "adventure" tires, monza nitrogin shocks from mikesxs,stock front forks, front dual disc setup. I really like the stance of the bike and having to lean forward, I like to be right up against the tank. I could prolly get some "street" tires and would help. At high speeds I feel like it takes to long to swerve. i almost have to force it to change lane positions rather than just leaning and letting the bike do the work. I dont know if this is just inexperience or the setup I chose. Im curious to what everyone feels is the best setup for handling. Also if anyone has any good tips or practise exercises they do, please share.
 

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Put the front fender back on or better yet, add a fork brace. Or even better yet, install the later 35mm forks (and a fork brace). Yes, you can install the emulators but just doing the Minton mods to the forks and running about one ounce more oil really helps and costs next to nothing. Out back, a TX750 swingarm really helps. Pretty much drops right in and really stiffens things up. Raising the fork tubes 1/4" to 3/8" in the trees more firmly plants your front end.
 
Since you like to be over the front, as I do, you would benefit highly from straight rate springs up front (rather than the progressive wound springs) and cartridge emulators. Your labored turning is partially due to the bars. You need width and the leverage that comes with it to ease your turn-in effort. Tapered head bearings would help as well. A single disc front would lighten the front wheel and reduce gyroscopic effect and lighten your steering at high speed as well. If you prefer to keep the dual setup, drill your rotors for some lightening, and it also cleans the pads and keeps them performing well. The 27 degree steering angle on your bike is not particularly relaxed, nor exceedingly tight.
As far as practice goes, one thing I do (with the suspension optimized) is to go find a parking lot and turn the tightest circles in both directions I can muster without using the clutch to modulate speed. If you adapt to the low speed turn by shifting your weight to the outside of the turn and pushing the bike down under you, it makes you use your legs to weight the pegs more. This is for low speed turning. In high speed turns, accustom yourself to riding with the balls of your feet on the pegs, and when you set up for a turn, slide your upper body toward the turn, while applying pressure to the inside peg, and your bar effort will be reduced. If you are trying to stay centered and muscle the bike with the short radius of the bars you have, steering will be high effort. Some like to rigid mount a standard, superbike, or daytona type bar, but in this you will give up some vibration absorbtion offered by the isolated bar mounting. Get the head bearings, springs, and emulators done first, and you'll find that your front end is much more crisp with excellent feedback. Add about an inch more of oil height when doing the forks than the manual calls out when you go to the emulators. After that, if it is too harsh over small ripples, take out about 10CC of fork oil from each tube at a time til you hit the sweet spot. Your rear shocks are not really optimal, and may be under damped and over sprung. Longer rear shocks switch the weight bias to the front and quicken steering as well. Michael Morse at http://www.650central.com/ can get you squared away with a good rear shock option. It's best to call, so I'm told. That's all I have for now.
 
I put RaceTech emulators and Traxxion Dynamics straight rate springs in my XS1100SG forks. I also replaced the steering head bearings as well. I also installed new Progressive Suspension shocks. (I'm not crazy about progressive wound springs) A TKat fork brace ties the forks together. I have my laden sag at 35 mm front and back. The bike is far better now than when it was new! I'm thrilled, as it carves corners like never before!

I'm going to do a XS650 the same way. Actually, I'll probably take the forks to Traxxion Dynamics and say "Here! Do them!" (I rode a bike they tuned and it can not be surpassed.) Also, the heavy brake rotor has to go!

I'm also considering an eighteen inch front wheel running a 110/80-18 tire and a 130/80-17 on the back. I'm seeing some new bikes set up like that.
 
The guard acts as a brace and as 5twins says, the 34mm forks are small enough without removing the guard but i like what has been done in these pics using the original guard and re-braces the forks. Don't know if it is as good as the original guard but would have to be close and looks good.

Can't remember whose bike this is but a nice job :thumbsup:
 

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Also if anyone has any good tips or practise exercises they do, please share.

We all countersteer a little subconsciously in turns, but using this technique explicitly to change direction more efficiently really makes a difference. I remember thinking it must be voodoo when I first read about it!:laugh:
 
When countersteering at high speed, think of it as gently inserting your mass between the inside bar and peg. The pressure on the inside bar and the inside peg are applied in one fluid motion, and steering becomes lower effort. Just takes practice to get the fluidity into it. You really don't have to be railing the turns to practice it. Just go out and concentrate on it a few times, and what produces the smoothest result will become second nature. I can't sit back and bear-dog the bars on any of my bikes comfortably anymore. I read an old article with Scott Russell discussing the whole "wedge yourself between the inside bar and peg thing, when he was discussing riding older superbikes. It works pretty fluid on my SV650, and my Road Star. It's easier to do crisply, to me, with a wider bar.
 
For higher speeds and in turns where just a push is being quick enough, push and pull. Push on the right grip and pull on the left simultaneously to go right. Moving your butt over to what will be the inside of the curve BEFORE the curve also helps.
 
Man, this is great. some good advise. thanks everyone. looks like I got some more modifications to do. yay!! That minton mod article is badass. definitly getting tapperd bearings and fork brace. hell, im gonna do them all.
 
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About excercises, I did something similar to what someone else mentioned, which was hours and hours in the parking lot doing low speed riding with tight turns. I would find an empty row and go back and forth through the spaces, up the row and back down. I think it helps develop very fine control that benefits whatever kind of riding you do. Slip the clutch and drag the rear brake. I really got into that for awhile.
 
Be aware that much of this stuff may not be available for your 34mm forks. All the more reason to upgrade and swap on a set of 35s.
 
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