Tips to Ensure that Carb Diaphragm Is Seated Properly

Follow the pix--
I do it like this--
#1 pix is dry carb
#2 pix is stubborn diaphragm
#3 pix is juice
#4 pix is carb w/ a little of the juice added
#5 is diaphragm settled

Let the juice set & cure for specified time period--24 hrs--before use (after the diaphragm is tamed to the guide area--don't lock it up & try ta run gas through it), it will grip a little faster & I've been eager before w/out problems but if ya have the time use it. I might be sayin' that really badly.

I turn mine over onto a sani place ta cure (after pix #5).

 

BTW--it only takes a little, ya don't want the juice squirtin' all over the place. Whenever ya seat the diaphragm it should settle into a nice clean bowl area because if there's any juice in that area it will stick right to it & cause malfunctioning diaphragm.

 

The diaphragm pictured above is a total wreck! Punctured and torn in several places and well beyond salvage much less matching the operation to a paired carburetor. Diaphragms are not intended to be bonded to anything btw it's pressure fit on the slide and a compression fit of the lip in a grove with the top bolted on. See JBM Industries instructions for removal and replacement. Blue

http://www.jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html

 

Realize its torn & battered it was used for example purposes & no one bonded any part of it but the lip that gets nailed anyway

 

They always go in with just a bit of coaxing. Put as much of the diaphragm as you can in the groove, put the cover down on it but a little offset so the part that isn't in the groove is showing, the cover will keep the back side in place. Then work the rest of the diaphragm into the groove as you slide the cover over it. Works every time. Always helps to start with the tab area first. a little silicone grease helps with the sliding thing. If you have some spray silicone, spray some into a container let all the solvent evaporate, use the silicon in the bottom of the container to lube the diaphragm edge.

I've (cough) never glued a diaphragm.
I also sincerely hope I never find one when I open up a set of carbs either.
True story; a guy was buttoning up a set of KZ1300 carbs and his "friend" dropped a cigarette coal on one of his diaphragms while "helping".

 

It has been said, but I'll reiterate.
Other than patience, nothing is need to get them lined out.
Acetone, eyther, solvents of any kind are NOT good for the thin diaphragm.

 

Sorry I can't answer that. I don't have any formal education (10 grade).
But life is a school. I can relate the damage I've done.
An accidental spraying with ether made them as crisp as potato chips.
Acetone will dry them also.
I've used Naptha gas(14 lb. gas at the racks) to clean the dark diesel stain around the filler caps. Cuts it quick and any dirt has the "oil" dried out of it so a quick hit with the water hose takes off the dirt. Quick, cheap and dirty for the enviroment.
I also tried getting rid of a big ant den with it.
Poured about a half a cup down the hole. Took a rag on a 15' pole to light it.
I wasn't far enough. The fireball consumed most of my beard and any hair not under my cap. And I had rosey cheeks for a week.
That Naptha shit has some serious combustion properties.

 

Where's the camera when ya need it

 

Did it kill the ants? If so it was a roaring success.

 

BWHAHAHAHA

 

Have you tried putting the diaphragms in the freezer for a few hours (or overnight)?

Kent

 

+1 kvanderplog on the freezer trick, that has worked for me many times.

Use a little tacky grease, vaseline, silicone dielectric grease, crisco to hold the diaphram in place.
Gently blow compressed air into the carbs to check for smooth slide operation after you have them put back together.

 

Some varied ideas here, though not really conclusive.... Back to patience manipulation ans a tiny bit of silicon grease, I'm going for the slide method.......

 

mmmmmm