top end rebuild, parts laid out ready, any final tips?

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Mitchell_p

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Hey guys.

got my 2nd over bored jugs back from the machinist as well as my refurbished head.
Got everything ready to put back together tomorrow morning.
Any final tips or little hidden things that can be missed? Ill have the vids up while im doing this and my manual with me so im pretty confident.

first time doing anything this mechanical. Don't wanna fudge it up.

Thanks guys.
 
Also don't forget to reinstall the little oil baffle in the top of the head:

(pic lifted from 5twins)

OilBaffle.jpg
 
Have Fun! Really, it's quite satisfying to do it yourself and enjoy the results when you fire it up again for the "first" time. :)
 
Not sure, mine has it and it's a 74/75 motor.
Just got the head on and i'm about to set in the cam.
going pretty slow just to make sure i don't miss anything.

Little things like putting the O rings on the bottom of the jugs.
 
I second that oil baffle tip. AND the o-rings on the jugs. It definitely feels like crap when you finish a build and have parts left over, lol. This ain't IKEA. Also, just generally, on my first time I took pictures and video with my phone as I took the thing apart, just so I'd know how it went back together. I was OBSESSIVE about it actually, and those pics/vids saved my ass more times than I can count.

Dave
 
Oh hell... The o rings!!! I also forgot to remember to do the cam chain tensioner the first time I got the jugs on. Ack!
 
so i am the setting the cam and the getting my chain on.
Ive got a Hughs pma and i marked it for TDC using the piston stop method before starting my rebuild.
Now i need to set it at TDC with the rocker box off and nothing really bolted down except the head to the jugs with the 3 bolts.

If i set it at TDC without being able to check the intake and exhaust opening closing etc. That's fine isn't it?

Just want to make sure, also let me know if im not being clear enough with my description.
 
Intake and exhaust position is determined by the cam lobes so go ahead for TDC. A piston stop and a degree wheel will get you on the money for TDC.......someday I'll get a degree wheel, might save double checking for TDC after the engine is all back together.
Being a dirtfloor mechanic without a degree wheel, the next time I have an engine going back together I'll do TDC, set cam in and then before the rocker goes on I'll set the cam tensioner in place and snug it down to see if the cam moves off TDC. Make sense?
 
I agree. Before the rocker box goes on adjust the cam chain tensioner to check cam timing. Once you verify the cam timing, then install the rocker box.
You can check for TDC before you put any of the top end on.
Just pull the rods up, I used a bungee cord and some scrap wood to hold the rods pulled up. This set up holds the rods and crank at TDC. On the stock alternator the timing marks will line up. Easy to check.
Now you have TDC you can silp on the PMA rotor and mark it for TDC.
All years have the oil baffle in the head.
Leo
 
hard_y_rd said:
Pretty sure mine didn't have it when I pulled it apart. P.O must of lost it. How bad do you need it? Mine's a '73.
Click to expand...

The baffle is there to help prevent oil mist from coming out the breather and making a mess on your engine (prevents oil loss). Obviously you can run without it, but engine may need a little wiping down more often.
 
Well yes, but the system was designed to utilize two baffles, along with one hose or reducer plugs in the nipples if two hoses are used. Eliminate any of these and the result is more oil blown out.
 
Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to eliminate any of the two. I'm just missing the head baffle. If anyone has one i'll gladly take it off their hands.
 

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