Tricks & Tips on “Cleaning Up” My Frame

[Bewarethemoon]

I’m due to pick up my bike after it’s undergone a little fabrication.

I’d like to “clean up/smooth” all factory welds and remove and unused tabs/brackets.

Any advice from guys out there that have done this?

Cheers I’m advance.

Daniel.

 

[Jim]

I cleaned mine up. Knock off the ugly bits with a scotchbrite disk and die grinder.... then smoothed with body filler.
Commentary skips around a bit, but starts at comment #85.

 

[5twins]

You can also use flap discs in a 4.5" grinder. They smooth out metal quite nicely without leaving scratches like a grinding wheel does.

 

[Bewarethemoon]

You can also use flap discs in a 4.5" grinder. They smooth out metal quite nicely without leaving scratches like a grinding wheel does.

That’s what I plan to use initially. I feel I have a good feel for that configuration. Last summer I spent 40 hours sanding a Sweet Chessnut log for a play park. We fitted composite climbing grips to climb round like a little bouldering route.

Daniel.

 

[Bewarethemoon]

I cleaned mine up. Knock off the ugly bits with a scotchbrite disk and die grinder.... then smoothed with body filler.
Commentary skips around a bit, but starts at comment #85.

View attachment 148299

I love what you’ve achieved here Jim! Something I can only aspire too, I have spent a fair few hours with a Dremel removing casting marks and polishing on small parts and found it quite therapeutic.

Will body filler stand up to powdercoat? Or should I consider painting the frame anyway as any scuffs and scrapes could be remedied easier.

Thank you for the reply!

Daniel.

 

[Jim]

Will body filler stand up to powdercoat?

Powder coat will only adhere to metal, so... no, afraid not.

 

[Ratranger]

When I got my frame powder coated I asked about the all metal filler and the other stuff that says it'll work, I got told don't waste my time. They had tried it all with mediocre results at best. So I spent time filling low spots with weld and sanded it back.

 

[Mailman]

Jim set the bar pretty high for having a flawless looking frame. I can tell you what my method was and I was really happy with the results. I didn’t remove any tabs because I was doing a restoration, but the welds were really sloppy and bumpy and there was welding spatter everywhere!
I went over the whole frame removing welding spatter by knocking them off with a small ball peen hammer and an old flat blade screwdriver. Then I smoothed all the welds using small sanding wheels and disc grinders.

I then took the frame to be powder coated. The first frame I’ve had powder coated, and I was really happy with the way it came out. The powder coat is thick and it flows into surface flaws to create a really smooth glossy finish.
Here are a few photos, and remember these welds were initially very rough!

 

[59Tebo]

My plan was to use everything in the (Stone Age) garage, including (but not limited to) angle grinder w/ grinder, cut-off wheels, flap wheels, stones, rotary rasps, Dremel tool(s), Roloc discs in a drill, hand files, sand paper... basically anything that will shape metal. When I'm happy with that, I'll fill in any "pits" with either brazing, or lead solder. Both being metal, powder-coat will stick, no problemo. The plan is to take it even further, and "meld" (as much as practical) all the welds. People will think it's bondo under the paint, but it'll be metal under the powder-coat. One way, or another, "The Basketcase" will never again be in the deplorable condition it was when I got it. Good luck, and keep us posted! (we're nosy!)

 

[Mailman]

I’ll add one more thing. If you’re going the powder coat route. Be sure to remove your steering head lock! I failed to and the high temps of the baking oven melted my lock and it was a pain to drill out and replace!

 

[halfmile]

I used to use this on all my Go Kart frames and never had a problem with power coat.

 

[Bewarethemoon]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the responses! As usual this forum is such a deep pool of knowledge, don’t know what I’d do without it!

After reading, re-reading and then reading again I think I’ve formulated a plan.

I love what Jim achieved and I’d love to produce work close to that, I think I want to go the powder coat route for durability (please correct me if I’m wrong).

So I’m thinking cutting discs on my angle grinder to remove tabs, then flap discs on the remnants and high spots on welds (I may switch to my Dremel if I feel I need a more intricate touch). I have a friend who is a metalworker so I’m going to enlist his help in brazing low spots and capping any open tubing with weld, revelling the opportunity to learn a new skill!

Then back to the Dremel for the final smoothing/blending following the initial steps I’ve grown accustomed to using whilst I’ve been polishing parts for my build.

Does this sound like I’m on the right track???

Daniel.

 

[Mailman]

Sounds like you’d get very nice results with that. Regarding powder coat , it’s really a personal preference , I tried it this time because it has a reputation for durability, and the results were beautiful. But it can look very nice spray painted too. And truth be told, I’ve rattle canned frames with Rustoleum that came out beautifully and still looked great years later. I’d say do whatever you feel like, you can’t really go wrong.

 

[59Tebo]

Daniel,
Sounds like you're on the right track to me. Just be sure, before you do anything irreversible, to "mock up" everything! After is the wrong time to realize you've ground off/plugged something you need. Try not to get ahead of yourself, and you'll do fine. Cheers.