Troubles

Robert Reed

XS650 Addict
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Alright guys, I need a little help, again.

Last summer my bike had a few issues where it would stumble or break up in what I would guess is the mid range but can't give specifics as I don't have a tach.

Over the winter I pulled the carbs apart, cleaned them, replaced the diaphragms and bench synced them. Also replaced my lines and inline filter and cleaned out my tank.

Just recently I swapped my pod filters out for Uni filters and added baffles to my pipes.

The bike seemed to be running great so I decided to ride it to work today, about 25 miles each way. The ride in went just fine, no issue. After work I was about 5 miles from home and it started breaking up pretty bad but it I opened it up it seemed to go away. I had one last turn to make, I throttle down and downshift into 2nd and the bike dies. I coast to a stop, kick it over, starts up and dies. Kick it again, it starts and I hammer down to make it the last quarter mile home.

I pulled my plugs and from what I can tell they look just like NGK says they should.

Any ideas?
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Well hate to suggest the obvious but um... fuel level? Next up how's the battery state of charge?
 
Well hate to suggest the obvious but um... fuel level? Next up how's the battery state of charge?
Tank was full, filled up right after work.

My bike is setup to be kick start only so I'm running a small Lithium Ion battery, just put my meter on it, reading 13.4v
 
My bet is the tiny Lithium ion battery. As it starts to go bad, it losses its smoothing function and as a result the voltage can go very high or very low and affect the operation of the ignition system.
 
My bet is the tiny Lithium ion battery. As it starts to go bad, it losses its smoothing function and as a result the voltage can go very high or very low and affect the operation of the ignition system.

If that was the case wouldn't it respond the same way at any RPM?
 
If that was the case wouldn't it respond the same way at any RPM?
Well, we could debate that for a few posts, but it would be much easier to simply install a conventional fully charged battery in place of the tiny battery and with the charging system disabled, see if it runs better.
 
Drain the float bowls into a clean light colored container.
View attachment 119027 View attachment 119028

Did this today and had some odd discoveries.

The left side bowl appeared to have some fuel on the bottom of the drain plug and the right side plug was loose, didn't even need a wrench to open it. Even more odd is the fact that there was considerably less fuel in the left side than the right, I guess maybe since it was loose most of it leaked out but I didn't see any signs of a leak where it was parked.

Maybe I was sucking air through the loose drain plug?

Anyway, after doing this I dumped some Sea Foam in the tank, don't know if I believe in it but I figured it couldn't hurt. Took it on a 4.5 mile loop and it seemed to run fine, maybe I need to take it on a longer run to re-create the circumstances.

Here's what was in the bowls, some grit and you can see there is definitely less from the right bowl.

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If these are the later 34's you can tighten the drain screws too much. That drain screw has a swedged tip and seat. so like the push rod worm and oil plugs tightened to much and left they seem to glue together. Making them very hard to remove later.

Anyone of those little bits of crud are enough to start plugging the pj. Suck enough into the jet and a cleaning is going to happen.
 
If these are the later 34's you can tighten the drain screws too much. That drain screw has a swedged tip and seat. so like the push rod worm and oil plugs tightened to much and left they seem to glue together. Making them very hard to remove later.

Anyone of those little bits of crud are enough to start plugging the pj. Suck enough into the jet and a cleaning is going to happen.

Are you referring to the side mounted drain screws? Mine are in the bottom of the bowl.
 
Alright guys, been too long since I've been able to get out on the bike. After work plans fell through tonight so I decided to take her out for a spin. This is the first time I've ridden it since installing the voltage gauge. I only did about a 10 mile loop on the back roads near my house. At idle it was reading 14.7 volts and while riding it was around 14.8. Does that sound about right? Am I possibly overcharging? Seems like that could possibly cause some of the issues I've run into.

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To me.....those 14.7-15 volt readings sound a tad high - but I'll let the electrical folks comment further on the voltmeter readings.

I will say that you have one very nice clean bike! The engine sounds good to me.
 
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What reading to you get when it's not running, or even better across the terminals on a fully charged battery.? They don't always read voltage that accurately. but there should be about a1.5 to 2 volt differential, slow idle to say 3K rpm.
OK watched the video (duh) that voltage looks good.
 
PS a very slow fuel leak can evaporate more than drip.

Good point but I keep it in my basement, I would think I would notice an odor of gas?

What reading to you get when it's not running, or even better across the terminals on a fully charged battery.? They don't always read voltage that accurately. but there should be about a1.5 to 2 volt differential, slow idle to say 3K rpm.
OK watched the video (duh) that voltage looks good.

It usually reads about 13.1 when not running.

To me.....those 14.7-15 volt readings sound a tad high - but I'll let the electrical folks comment further on the voltmeter readings.

I will say that you have one very nice clean bike! The engine sounds good to me.

Well that was without running the headlight, I didn't even think about that until now. Will probably have to try it again.
 
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