Tuning.....Where the hek to start!

[mrtwowheel]

From the pic's you have posted I couldn't see if you have an inline filter in the gas supply to your carbs. FYI RonAyers.com has a small nylon mesh one that fits into fuel lines, Kawasaki P/N 49019-1085, as shown in carbs fiche for 2005 Kawasaki ZZR600 (ZX600-J4).

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b284df8700223e4793100/carburetor

Link to that filter

aldo5468, have you used one of these, and where did you install it? Looks like it pushes into the T before the fuel line goes onto the T.

Scott

 

[5twins]

Here's one on eBay but it looks to be nearly 1/4" in diameter. I'm not sure that would fit inside the smaller fuel lines we use, let alone inside the "T" as it was intended to on that Kawasaki .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-4...ash=item41c4d917c5:g:HfsAAOSwoENZ5NG-&vxp=mtr

 

[aldo5468]

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b284df8700223e4793100/carburetor

Link to that filter

aldo5468, have you used one of these, and where did you install it? Looks like it pushes into the T before the fuel line goes onto the T.

Scott

I actually use two of them - one (as you note above) that fits in the T to filter gas coming from the tank before it gets into the carb bowls, and one in the open end of the vent line to keep insects like mud wasps out of it. Dunno if BS38 sets have such a vent line - I have Keihin CVK 34's on my 650. You can see the top of the latter one in the attached pic where it fits down into the T.

 

[Patmandu]

Hmmmm.....I find it hard to imagine that the wattage rating of the bulb (as long as it is a 12v bulb) reallly matters.

PAUL - the bulb definitely should go out exactly when the points open. If the light definitely is good, but doesn’t light-up when connected to the points, I can think of two things to check:

1) is the kill switch in the “run” position? If the switch is in one of the two “OFF” positions, there will be no power in the ignition circuit (that is how the engine is shut-off in fact).

2) are you certain that at some point in the rotation of the points cam, the points are closed?

In you photo above, the lower set of points is clearly open, but the upper set may be juuuust open as well. When you mounted the points on the plate - did you set the gap? Perhaps the points are mounted such that they are always open....

I may be wrong, but as I recall it, you must first set the points gap (how much the little contacts open when the cam pushes on them) and THEN you must rotate the points mounting plates to set the timing (which is WHEN the points open).

BTW - another good way to set the static timing is with a multimeter that has an audible diode check setting (essentially a built-in buzzer that sounds when a circuit is closed and contact is made). That way, when rotating the crankshaft, you can watch the timing mark and simply listen to the buzzer. When it stops buzzing - the points have juuuuussstt opened.

A meter with this feature will cost a little more than a real cheapo, but not much more.

Stick at it - you’ll get there.

Pete

 

[Patmandu]

i joined this forum but not to sure how to use it yet, so sorry if i bug you. can you help me . i just cannot set the gaps,which is something a 5year old can do. maybe i have the brain of a 3 year old.
i understand how the ignition system works in general. I have 3 main questions been bugging me for months

1) when setting points is there a start from scratch position before i go to find the widest point opening.i gave up and have tried to open the points right at the f mark, but that doesnt work.

i did all the pre steps btw. (cam and valve adjustments etc) and chain isnt stretched. cam rod is installed right.

2) im using a 4.5 v test light . is the light supposed to go out soon after it passes the F mark. mine stays on almost 3/4 of the way after ( points are clean)
3)
i,ve been at this for weeks. i just wanna know what an xs650 feels like to ride, lol. its a 1978 SE.

 

[gggGary]

Welcome aboard. Lets see a pic of your points! Is the other lead of the light grounded or to +12 (either works) but it changes how the light works.

 

[Patmandu]

oh cool thanks! let me go take a pic!

 

[Patmandu]

i put the aligator clip on the right points nut and yes it is grounded . turn on ignition momentarily. i,ve also tried the old timers cigeret paper way and doing it with ignition ac off positive batt to the points body and when it opens light goes off.

 

[gggGary]

i put the aligator clip on the right points nut and yes it is grounded . turn on ignition momentarily. i,ve also tried the old timers cigeret paper way and doing it with ignition ac off positive batt to the points body and when it opens light goes off.

good pics thanks! Um the old timers method is to use a match book cover to set the gap. around .014". Not so easy to find a match book anymore.
to plus 12 is nice cause you don't have to leave the ignition on.

 

[Jim]

Have a look here....

 

[650Skull]

Welcome Patmandu.

Before doing anything else...... replace those damaged screws holding the points..........You will never get the points to stay at their correct gap for more than 2 min

 

[5twins]

Yes, it's normal for the points to be open and the light to be on for about 3/4 of one engine revolution. One engine revolution is 360°. The dwell value for these is 93°, which is about 1/4 of 360. The dwell value measures the time the points are closed so that means the light will be out for 1/4 of a revolution, on for the other 3/4.

 

[Patmandu]

sorry late response but wo! thanks guys , i have so much more clarity now. and yes the screws make sence because after i set it it moves . that happened once atleast. let me give it a shot .