Tx750 madness.

Wouldn't you know it! Georgia registered it! Now that the safety inspection is done. Time for some real work. The new sprag is on the way. Full seal kit in hand. I have a vendor we use at work trying to locate a balancer chain using all the dimensions from here. Carbs have been rebuilt but I find a little on the rich side, so they will be getting a rework and modified for better flow and response. Tytronics cam position sensors to replace the points are ordered. I can make my own ignition box or use a box from dyna or zeeltronics to control spark. Getting the elephant foot valve adjuster mod, as well as hopefully a reworked head. It's going to be a fun project.

 

Hello there jonesey, I saw the article involving the DID chain, but someone had mentioned that the side plates were thinner so they were worried the chain would stretch sooner than later. I have a 74 model with the adjustable tensioner so it would only mean sooner intervals of pulling the pan and checking the backlash of the counter weights. Not terrible, but I intend on having this be a pretty reliable rider, and also something that I can do repairs on easily if needed. The Speedandsportinc has the chains, but i am hoping to find a relatively cheap alternative that could be used by those that can't afford or get NOS parts. I am also trying to create a log of alternatives or better parts. Such as the electronics, and hard parts trying to increase the lifespan and durability, without sacrificing at least a semblance or originality,

 

Perhaps you can give me some insight here until my service manual gets here. My TX is one incredibly stubborn mule and only starts when it wants to. Kick the crap out of it and still maybe starts 1 out of 100 times. Backfires alot, get fuel but just no bang. I even installed one of those old school ARC boxes that helps the points fire and keeps the plugs clean (as advertised) but still i have set the timing multiple times, cleaned plugs checked tank etc, just one hell of a pain to get fired up. any suggestions?

 

If I had unlimited money I would personally remove the counterbalance weights and have a custom made crank at 270ﾟ so that it would just be a really angry rephase motor. I actually install a Ignition Box module just to see if it would help and did but I didn't replace the plugs at the same time. I am switching to iridium's right now to see if that helps. If it is any consolation I have a 48 Jeep and a 51 Jeep as well that are all original so I am very used to keeping ornery angry old Mechanics alive as it is my job as a maintenance technician at a steel factory Built-in 68. Gary is not necessarily the rings but I think it is actually the valve seals that may have gone bad my right cylinder continues to fill with oil I assume from the Cam cavity so I will be taking the motor out and resealing the entire motor top to bottom after I get a few other kinks worked out. I am trying to get my hands on another large starter sprocket but the only eBay one is nearly $300 that is a bit too much to scratch right now. Personally if I had 300 laying around I would probably spend it on my XS considering I am setting up a hydraulic clutch and I still have many items I need to address before I consider it even remotely finished.

 

Well, apparently iridium plugs are this things best friend. Started 1/2 kick, no choke. I think I need to step back the pilot jet. 1 turn out on the air/fuel screw and it's real rich

 

I read about the iridium plugs and after running them in my xs it really kicked that thing into high gear on launch. The Arc box i installed is supposed to jump the primary coil voltage higher so that helps generate a much stronger and hotter spark. If i am able to use that in conjunction with a Tytronics cam position sensor than i will use a dyna ignition coil to create the hottest spark possible just short of designing my own CDI ignition (which i already have plans to do). The oil is just a matter of going through all the factory service bulletins and correcting any oil seeping and leakage problems. There is many TX owners in Australia that physically do the work, and i will also throw my own 2 cents into the basket after I do a complete tear down and rebuild with Viton valve stem seals, as many NOS or modern day equivalents to many of the problem areas as i can find. My main focus will be on oil pressure, ability to properly scavenge the oil back to the tank, and even distribution to the head and the transmission. The first gear trans bearings, and the intentionally light oil pressure and blow off valve at 2500 are the main cultprits to a poor oiled and soon to be grenaded engine. after bumping the pressure up to say 60-70 psi or even higher and opening the gallery's to the head mainly the valve stem seals, and a windage/oil collection and distribution tray above the transmission will hopefully cure a lot of the poor oiling. As well as a widened scavenge pump to facilitate the return of the oil. If i can build a roller rocker for the XS i don't see why i couldn't for the TX also. And taking the exhaust cross over and either blocking the center or physically cutting the center out will also alleviate the added heat that can easily burn up a set of valves.