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Paul, back in the day we would rebuild old Harley transmissions using hand-picked rollers (needles) from a collection of various sizes, sized based on the shaft OD and race ID. I've seen roller availability in a vast array of sizes, and thought about machining a smaller OD race, matched to smaller diameter needles, fitted to that 14mm shiftshaft, with maybe 0.002" running clearance. The outer race shell could be cut in a "U" cross-section (to retain the needles). Full-compliment, packed with grease, only +/- 20° rotation, side loading well below supplier specs. Just a thought...
 
Great minds think alike TwoMany! When I worked for Rolls Royce, many small end bearings were bespoke to suit a certain application and tolerance. Fiddly and often frustrating but ultimately delivers the desired result. I'm still contemplating how we accomplish this ;)
 
Rolls? That's great! It's nice to feel understood.
Several years ago, I saw packs of highly polished sewing needles at the local mart, about 0.5mm diameter, and my homespun, countryfied, budget-oriented mind immediately thought of needle bearings.

I was also thinking on a long 14mm or 9/16" shaft, flycutter fitted on the end. This long shank cutter would fit into the case's shiftshaft bore (as a guide), outer cover fitted (for precise/custom alignment), then cut from the inside to out, stopping just shy of the outside face. Nobody would see the hidden stealth bearing...
 
Hi TwoMany, yes it was fantastic.
I've also though about TIG welding an alluminium boss to the rear of the case around the existing aperture then reaming through it to take the ID out to accommodate 20mm OD. I'll have to give that some more thought :shrug:
 
After much deliberation and playing with card templates, I finally settled on a solution to the front mount. I was trying to get away from twin legged mounts. However, as I'm omitting the top and top rear mounts, thought I'd go for a bit more strength?



Started to mock up the tank, just to understand clearance and mounting points. I'll get more done on that tomorrow.

 
you're not a bad tin basher Paul :D
Will you use a Mig or a micro Tig to finish it .
 
Thanks Twomany, I'm not even thinking that far ahead - but thanks for the vote ;)
Actually I think my little Café Racer may have made it into next years :)

Thanks Peanut. At the minute I'm using my little MIG on a setting that's producing good results and good penetrating welds with an Argon/Co2 mix gas. My TIG has gone west and is off to see if its fixable. I'd prefer the TIG but the MIG is doing the job perfectly and it's a little more convenient to use. I'll pressure test the tanks when they are done. However, i'll be lining them any way with Caswells GT1750. I've used this before on fibre glass tanks as it isn't affects by ethanol. If there are any little pin holes, this will a) seal them up and b) provide a nice resistant internal coating to stop corrosion etc etc
 
thanks for the explanation Paul.
All I have is a small 100A MightyMig and a portable Tig Inverter stick welder...... I've written Santa for a Tig with micro torch but I'm not holding out much hope judging by last year .!

Maybe some day you'll find the time to post a little video tutorial as I'm sure there are many builders out there that would love to see how you design and construct a tank from scratch.
Next thing for the workshop ....an English wheel :wink2:
 
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Hi Peanut, good luck ;)
I may do that. The simplest way is to start with stiff card and template it out. On tanks like the one above, card is ideal as It mimics the properties of sheet steel, just a lot easier to work with and trim. Once you have it taped up as you like it, take it apart and transfer those templates to your steel. Cut out your sheet steel and bend, tack and finally weld. When you get into bulbous radiused tanks, definately need the English wheel. I'd love to find one like I used as an apprentice, I loved it but it hated me - I still have the flat left thumb ;)
 
Just a little bit more done today. I finished off all the seam welds on the tanks and mocked them up. Had a little interference issue with top mounts as I expected. As I'm not going to be running one, they got machined down. Now all I need to do, is work out how to mount them onto the frame.







 
Looking good there, Paul. I like how the tanks' fronts parallel the forks.

Now, lemme see, gas in the left, oil in the right?

Or Darjeeling breakfast tea?

Or Lone Star???
 
Hi 2M, thanks. Yeah, I wanted to make sure that was part of the tanks lines - well spotted ;)

Well ... It may end up, petrol in one and electrics in the other! I really want a clean look as possible and don't particularly want a battery box, electrics box etc etc. I've got the capacitor and the Pamco and I'm sure it'll all go in there. Obvious down side, is that the fuel range will be less :)

Like I say, it s away be at the moment ....
 
Hi Paul,
as I understand your build plan, you are not using the motor as a stressed member and plan to cut down on the number of it's attachment points.
However, the XS650 motor is also a great paint-shaker and I worry that the reduced number of attachments will increase the chance of fatigue failure in their welds.
How about using these things?:-
http://www.gmt-rubber.com/PDFs/Bushes.pdf
Press them into sleeves on the frame and bolt through.
 
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