Use of Threadlocker on stainless screws with aluminum threads

YL82

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I read a suggestion somewhere on the Web to use threadlocker (Loctite, Permatex) on stainless steel screws going into aluminum parts/threads to prevent corrosion and to (though it seems almost counterintuitive) prevent screws from getting stuck.

Are there issues when SST screws are used on aliminum threads?

Any problems with using threadlocker on SST Socket Head Screw threads used as Float Bowl Screws?
 
If you want to use something to prevent corrosion, you should use anti-seize. If you put nothing, it will get stuck.
 
Yes, use anti-seize, not thread locker. I use the copper based stuff because it's copper colored and shows up better on the threads. You can see when you've got a proper coating and know when it needs to be re-applied.
 
I've got some anti-seize compound, Permatex brand, I believe. And I believe its copper-based.

Isn't threadlocker essentially Super Glue or close to it?


Float Bowls

Is it presumably a good idea to install the float bowls with their matching carbs?

One of the bowls has a 1 inscribed on the inside and the other has 2 inscribed. Do these numbers correspond to left and right?

Yes, I inadvertantly put them together to soak and don't know which one is which.
 
I read a suggestion somewhere on the Web to use threadlocker (Loctite, Permatex) on stainless steel screws going into aluminum parts/threads to prevent corrosion and to (though it seems almost counterintuitive) prevent screws from getting stuck.

Are there issues when SST screws are used on aliminum threads?

Any problems with using threadlocker on SST Socket Head Screw threads used as Float Bowl Screws?
No,No,NO to threadlocker. Use an anti-seize compound. I use Never-Seize, been using it for 50 plus years. It's aluminum based and works well with motorcycle parts.
 
Believe it or not, stainless fastner's do not have the shear strength of a steel fastener. And they do tear up threaded hole's in aluminium. So, as Purple stated, a great big NO to threadlocker/ sealer to stainless. Twins has it correct using anti-sieze. If your using stainless for appearance's, chrome fastener's are stronger, look better, and resist corrosion just as well.A thing to remember is when ataching two different metal's together, use anti-sieze.
 
Thanks All for the words of wisdom and Gordon for the Rule of Thumb.

I'm learning alot of very basic things and thankfully not the hard way...
 
I guess i will be learning the hard way!!!! just yesterday I put mine together using stainless in some areas and using locktite thread lock.:banghead:
 
just yesterday I...

It probably hasn't fully cured yet. You could probably re-do them before it does.

It also depends on how tight you tightened them. But any kind of steel will tear the threads out of aluminum if you aren't careful (I have found...).
 
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I was gonna pull them tonight but I hesitated. Im afraid I will pull the "female side" threads out!!!! Im just gonna leave them be.
 
Those butane torch type cigarette lighters are good for directing high heat on a small area. I'm going to try to find one to solder some new ends on my battery cables, which are breaking off. Maybe one of those tobacco discount stores will carry them.
 
XJWMX,
Harbor Freight has a small, hand sized torch that is refilled with the can's of butane available anywhere. And they are cheap, as far as price goe's. I use them mainly for shrink wrap when doing wiring. They have a good amount of heat, and the butane is cheap, like $3 a can. And the fuel last's a while. I have also used it to solder connector's on battery cable end's after crimping. Big thing to do on boat's, because with just a crimp, corrosion get's in between the wire and fitting and, well, you know. As long as the flame is blue instead of yellow, you got a good amount of heat.
 
Definitely use anti seize any time stainless is involved. BTDT. You really don't want a stainless bolt to break off. Most of the commercial stainless bolts aren't too terribly hard to drill if you use cobalt bits, but some of those alloys are HELL to drill meaning a real problem if one breaks off in a casting.
 
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