Vlad's Restoration Project w/ Pics

[Vlad]

Loads of progress since the last update.

One of the battery cable terminals broke, and I was able to repair it by soldering a new terminal. It may not look the best, but it works and saved a few bucks.

Also, I decided to rebuild all the brake parts. At first I reused the original piston seals, but figured it was easier to just do it now while it's all apart. Ordered the wrong front master cylinder kit though so I still have to wait for that, but both calipers and rear master are done.

The wheel bearings in both wheels were also replaced. This probably wasn't necessary, but it was one of those things where I thought it would be easier to do now. The original bearings had the metal shields, and I replaced them with the RS rubber seal type, so they should hopefully last the life of the bike now, with re-greasing every so often.

Also got some new tires. Went with the Pirelli Route 66. Still have to seat the beads on the tires and balance them. I am using a Marc Parnes wheel balancer. It is excellent! Would highly recommend.

Not pictured is the rebuilt swingarm. The stock plastic bushings were removed and bronze bushings were installed. I also added a grease zirk.

Other than that, it was just a bunch more cleanup and polishing of stuff. I went through all of the rubber parts and hit them with some silicone spray, hopefully restore them slightly and increase their longevity. Here are some before/after pics of the cleanup.

I'm pretty much at the point where the cleanup is done! I did what I could that didn't require removing the engine from the frame. I worked on the parts that came off the bike also, making sure things were lubricated as they should be and straightened out a few dents. Everything is more or less ready to go back on the bike. These are exciting times!

Next Steps:
Electrical stuff - the previous owner junked the stock fuse box (which is fine) except that he replaced it with these awful in-line fuses that just dangle. So I'm gonna fix that, check each connector for any broken wires, and pack all of the connectors with dielectric grease.

Seat tire beads and balance wheels

Gotta rinse the gas tank with something. Did electrolysis rust removal but there's now some surface rust in there because I made the mistake of not filling it up as soon as the electrolysis was done.

Here's all the parts and how the bike is sitting right now:

Then, time to reassemble the bike!!!

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Vlad,
the project is looking good but you forgot one essential step.
Remove those ergonomically disastrous rototiller bars, take 'em down to the docks and throw them in the lake.
Buy a second set of the bars on your Honda and put them on your XS650.

 

[Vlad]

Hi Vlad,
the project is looking good but you forgot one essential step.
Remove those ergonomically disastrous rototiller bars, take 'em down to the docks and throw them in the lake.
Buy a second set of the bars on your Honda and put them on your XS650.

Haha! Yes, this is definitely on my upgrade/modification list. Thanks for the tip! Although, the Honda bars aren't that comfortable either. I will probably end up experimenting with different types until I find something suitable for my body proportions.

 

[upthemaiden]

This project is looking great, you're doing some awesome work on those chrome parts. Really looking forward to seeing it after you get to the engine and frame at some point.

Gas tanks rust up SUPER quick when they sit. The other thing you can do if you're not going to fill it up with gas right away is put a little oil in the tank and roll it around a bit so everything gets coated.

 

[fredintoon]

Haha! Yes, this is definitely on my upgrade/modification list. Thanks for the tip! Although, the Honda bars aren't that comfortable either. I will probably end up experimenting with different types until I find something suitable for my body proportions.

Hi Vlad,
I went through several /bar swaps before the bike got it's XS11Standard 'bar.
Stock rototiller (wrong height & grip angle) CB750 (Nice but too tall) Eurobars (nice but too low)
More economical than buying new bars is to check out the 'bar table at the local swapmeet and try them on for size.

 

[Vlad]

This project is looking great, you're doing some awesome work on those chrome parts. Really looking forward to seeing it after you get to the engine and frame at some point.

Gas tanks rust up SUPER quick when they sit. The other thing you can do if you're not going to fill it up with gas right away is put a little oil in the tank and roll it around a bit so everything gets coated.

Thanks for the compliment! The chrome looks good in the pictures but in person you can see that it's pitted and scuffed in some spots. Still one hell of an improvement. Maybe I'll get all the chrome replated when I get to the frame eventually. Thanks for the gas tank tip! I think I will just fill it up right away but if I don't then I'll be sure to use oil or something similar to coat the inside.

Hi Vlad,
I went through several /bar swaps before the bike got it's XS11Standard 'bar.
Stock rototiller (wrong height & grip angle) CB750 (Nice but too tall) Eurobars (nice but too low)
More economical than buying new bars is to check out the 'bar table at the local swapmeet and try them on for size.

Great idea. I'll have to be on the lookout next time. Thanks!

 

[Vlad]

Minor update.

Got the gas tank under one more round of electrolysis as it has rusted again since the last time I did it, though not nearly as bad as when I first got it. This time I will either coat the inside with something or fill it with gas right away after rinsing.

But, the big problem that was solved was repairing the fusing of the electrical system. This is how I got the bike. There were only 3 fuses (instead of the required 4), all of them 20A (should be 1 20A and 3 10A), and the ignition fuse was removed completely! Whoever did this didn't even use a wire nut or crimp or anything, just twisted the wires together and used electrical tape. Shameful.

So I pulled all the junk off, traced the wires, and labeled them properly, waiting for a new box.

Looking for a donor fuse box and found one for sale on this forum! Thanks!

Good enough! It's a start. Don't want to pay $30+ for a new one elsewhere so I'll patch together a used one for cheap. Of course, I am well aware that these old contacts didn't even work well when new, and time hasn't helped them. When I went to take one out, this happened.

Turns out those things are extremely brittle and fragile. They can barely hold themselves together, much less apply enough force against a fuse cartridge to minimize contact resistance. So I went on a search for replacement contacts. Found something that works on digikey, I will include links at the bottom of this post. Here they are, old vs new:

The dimensions aren't an exact replacement, but they do slide nicely into the little grove, and the spring force is so tight on the fuse that it's almost impossible to remove by hand, good stuff!!

So off I went, soldering wires to wires and wires to contacts and measuring lengths to make sure everything was straight without any kinked wires. All solder joints were heat shrink wrapped. And here is the final result:

I also printed out a new label. I've included a PDF attachment to this post in case someone would like to re-print their label too. I just used some clear packing tape over regular paper. I am very pleased with the results. Managed to do it all for less than 20 bucks too. Here is a link to the contacts and fuses that I used.

Contacts:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/3535/36-3535-ND/316025
Fuse, 10A:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/BK-AGX-10/283-2046-ND/264551
Fuse, 20A:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/BK-AGX-20/283-2048-ND/264558

 

[eyewinder]

Wow, nice work on the restoration! A huge improvement with the chrome.

Thanks for posting the digikey links for the fuse box. I've been debating what to do with mine... This looks like the cheapest/easiest solution to get things running.

 

[Vlad]

Thanks! The chrome was just done with some polish by hand but I guess it goes a long way. It's still pitted but it definitely looks way better.

Yeah those contacts are definitely the cheapest way, and it looks good, functions well, and somewhat maintains the originality with the factory box. The solder eyelets on the contacts were kinda large for the 10A circuits wire gauge but if you're half decent at soldering it shouldn't be an issue. Good luck!

 

[Rasputin]

Great posts. You can learn a lot just by cleaning you machine thoroughly, as you are doing. It’s rewarding to take something that hasn’t run for years and recommission it. Have you any details about the throttle device / cruise control? I have been looking for that type for a while. Great work.

 

[Vlad]

Hello all!

Well, I've had this done since last summer but I only finished editing the video now. I managed to get the bike all pieced back together and running! I took it out for the first time and finally was able to experience why everyone loves these so much. What a bike, with such personality. Unfortunately there was some bad news too: oil leaks from the head gasket and a couple of other spots. I tried re-torquing the head bolts which were sort of loose as some people suggested they would be. Unfortunately this didn't solve the issue.

Since then, I had to leave the bike in Chicago and I moved to San Diego for work - so as usual I will have to postpone this project once again. But this time, the bike is in one piece and technically runs fine. When I do get back to this, I can think about some suspension upgrades, exhaust (out of necessity - original baffles are completely rusted out), PMA upgrade, and some other goodies. Until then, I hope you all enjoy the video!

Many thanks to all those who chimed in here, as well as those who posted the wealth of knowledge that can be found on this site.

Best Regards,
-Vlad

 

[fredintoon]

- - - I had to leave the bike in Chicago and I moved to San Diego for work - so as usual I will have to postpone this project once again. But this time, the bike is in one piece and technically runs fine. When I do get back to this, I can think about some suspension upgrades, exhaust (out of necessity - original baffles are completely rusted out), PMA upgrade, and some other goodies. Until then, I hope you all enjoy the video!
Many thanks to all those who chimed in here, as well as those who posted the wealth of knowledge that can be found on this site.
Best Regards,
-Vlad

Hi Vlad,
most likely your exhaust headers are still OK, you just gotta hacksaw the mufflers off.
There's a post on this list shows you which size of car exhaust pipe adapter is needed to join the headpipe inner tube to an aftermarket muffler.
Note that a PMA is NOT an upgrade; it's what you do if you want to run without a battery and pretend it's still the 1920s.
Upgrades others have done and posted on the list that you could consider:-
Replace the front brake master cylinder with one that has a smaller diameter piston.
Swap the stock fabric brake hoses for stainless ones.

 

[geedubya]

Hello all!

Well, I've had this done since last summer but I only finished editing the video now. I managed to get the bike all pieced back together and running! I took it out for the first time and finally was able to experience why everyone loves these so much. What a bike, with such personality. Unfortunately there was some bad news too: oil leaks from the head gasket and a couple of other spots. I tried re-torquing the head bolts which were sort of loose as some people suggested they would be. Unfortunately this didn't solve the issue.

Since then, I had to leave the bike in Chicago and I moved to San Diego for work - so as usual I will have to postpone this project once again. But this time, the bike is in one piece and technically runs fine. When I do get back to this, I can think about some suspension upgrades, exhaust (out of necessity - original baffles are completely rusted out), PMA upgrade, and some other goodies. Until then, I hope you all enjoy the video!

Many thanks to all those who chimed in here, as well as those who posted the wealth of knowledge that can be found on this site.

Best Regards,
-Vlad

G'day Vlad,

Get yourself an adjustable mobile workshop seat.....save your back mate.

GW

 

[ThatXS650Guy]

Nice job so far Vlad. If you have to be in San Diego you should have the bike there as well. No easier way to get around than on a MC especially in a state that lets you split lanes and has almost perfect MC weather.

 

[Vlad]

Hi Vlad,
most likely your exhaust headers are still OK, you just gotta hacksaw the mufflers off.
There's a post on this list shows you which size of car exhaust pipe adapter is needed to join the headpipe inner tube to an aftermarket muffler.
Note that a PMA is NOT an upgrade; it's what you do if you want to run without a battery and pretend it's still the 1920s.
Upgrades others have done and posted on the list that you could consider:-
Replace the front brake master cylinder with one that has a smaller diameter piston.
Swap the stock fabric brake hoses for stainless ones.

Great tips! Yes, I've seen that thread with the exhaust adapter and this is what I planned to do. If I keep the stock headers, will I still need to re-tune the carbs with different mufflers?

Already put stainless brake lines on, the original ones were completely cracked, and I will consider a different master cylinder - especially if I end up going for dual front brake discs. Guess I'll skip the PMA, I definitely plan to keep the battery.

G'day Vlad,

Get yourself an adjustable mobile workshop seat.....save your back mate.

GW

One day! At the time of this video I was already in the process of moving so I didn't want to acquire any more things to move. But this is definitely a priority the next time I have a garage.

Nice job so far Vlad. If you have to be in San Diego you should have the bike there as well. No easier way to get around than on a MC especially in a state that lets you split lanes and has almost perfect MC weather.

Oh yes! I am definitely still riding out here, just on something different. Here's a picture of the trip from Chicago to San Diego.

 

[aldo5468]

Great tips! Yes, I've seen that thread with the exhaust adapter and this is what I planned to do. If I keep the stock headers, will I still need to re-tune the carbs with different mufflers?

Already put stainless brake lines on, the original ones were completely cracked, and I will consider a different master cylinder - especially if I end up going for dual front brake discs. Guess I'll skip the PMA, I definitely plan to keep the battery.

If you really want dual front brakes, keep the OEM 14mm master cylinder - it's about the optimum size for the dual brake setup. Adding another disc and caliper adds unsprung weight to the front end, altho you can limit the increase somewhat by replacing the stock discs with thinner/lighter ones, either aftermarket or salvage XS1100 discs (which also are slotted). If you stick with a single disc, an 11 or 12mm master cylinder is about right - you still can go to a lighter disc and with good brakepads, you'll have very effective front braking.



One day! At the time of this video I was already in the process of moving so I didn't want to acquire any more things to move. But this is definitely a priority the next time I have a garage.



Oh yes! I am definitely still riding out here, just on something different. Here's a picture of the trip from Chicago to San Diego.

 

[fredintoon]

Great tips! Yes, I've seen that thread with the exhaust adapter and this is what I planned to do. If I keep the stock headers, will I still need to re-tune the carbs with different mufflers?
Already put stainless brake lines on, the original ones were completely cracked, and I will consider a different master cylinder - especially if I end up going for dual front brake discs. Guess I'll skip the PMA, I definitely plan to keep the battery.
QUOTE]



Hi Vlad,
re-tuning will only be needed if your replacement mufflers are sufficiently wide open to seriously reduce the exhaust's back pressure.
The stock front brake master cylinder is sized to operate the two calipers that other market XS650s all had.
If you fit a second caliper the stocker's feel goes from wooden to perfect.
The left-side caliper from an XS750/850/1100 STANDARD (the Specials use a totally different caliper design) bolts right on.

 

[fredintoon]

Great tips! Yes, I've seen that thread with the exhaust adapter and this is what I planned to do. If I keep the stock headers, will I still need to re-tune the carbs with different mufflers?

Already put stainless brake lines on, the original ones were completely cracked, and I will consider a different master cylinder - especially if I end up going for dual front brake discs. Guess I'll skip the PMA, I definitely plan to keep the battery.





One day! At the time of this video I was already in the process of moving so I didn't want to acquire any more things to move. But this is definitely a priority the next time I have a garage.



Oh yes! I am definitely still riding out here, just on something different. Here's a picture of the trip from Chicago to San Diego.

Hi Vlad,
that went weird, trying again:-
re-tuning will only be needed if your replacement mufflers are sufficiently wide open to seriously reduce the exhaust's back pressure.
The stock front brake master cylinder is sized to operate the two calipers that other market XS650s all had.
If you fit a second caliper the stocker's feel goes from wooden to perfect.
The left-side caliper from an XS750/850/1100 STANDARD (the Specials use a totally different caliper design) bolts right on.

 

[Vlad]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I'll be sure to post in here when I get back to working on this. Might be waiting a while longer. Cheers everyone!